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Newb building gokart

Rawdawg697

New here
Joined
Sep 18, 2025
Messages
3
Location
United States
First post here and don’t really know much about anything EV related. I’ve worked on cars/trucks/dirt bikes my entire life and have no problem with the design or modifications regarding my new project, other than the electrical components.

I found a good deal on an old electric rental go kart and bought it. The seller of course told me it worked fine just needed new batteries. Once I got home and started cleaning and inspecting things I discover the controller was shot. Pulled the controllers pcb (if that’s what it’s even called) out of the housing and found a giant burn hole through it and the thick copper bar running through it.

With the controller shot and what I believe to be suitable replacements for high amp brushed controllers being very expensive while not know if the motor was shot too, I started digging into it. The motor is a lynch motors lem-200 48v 200 rated/ 400 peak amp motor. Not having any batteries besides a bunch of 3s rc batteries and Milwaukee m18 batteries, I decided to rig up 2 m18 batteries and connect them to a kill switch and directly to the motor, the motor spun up and sounded fine with the tires off the ground. I jumped in and turned it on and ripped around the neighborhood did some donuts and realized I was melting the thin wire I used to rig up my batteries so I quickly shut it off.

Now to my questions/help needed/recommendations

Most of the brushed controllers I looked at that could push over 200amps were several hundred dollars so I assume I’d be better off switching to a brushless motor and controller?

I’d love to go crazy with the build but I want to keep the build relatively cheap while still being pretty powerful. I started looking at the kr5v motor but haven’t found to much details on that motor. I’ve watched countless videos on YouTube of qs138 motors in go karts and that looks like a lot of fun but I definitely don’t need to be doing 80-100mph. Would a qs120 be a decent motor in a go kart?

Moving on to batteries I obviously don’t think my rc batteries or m18 batteries would be suitable long term so I’ve been playing with the idea of building my own possibly out of A123 cells or maybe 18650/21700 cells? Then I can found the 44v Honda clarity batteries that are like $60, I could get 2 of those for dirt cheap and put on a nice bms. Could I run one 24s bms for two Honda clarity modules or would each 12s module need its own bms?

I’d love any recommendations or guidance on this project because like I said I really don’t know anything about the ev components.
 

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My first recommendation is to read up on the other kart threads, see what they did that works, and what didn't, and what meets your needs / wants out of what they used.

The motor itself is a good motor; it sounds like the controller just couldn't take what the motor needed to do the job it was being asked.

Brushed controllers are "simpler" than brushless, so you might be able to repair it. The usual problem is the FETs fail short circuit (stuck on) then because the motor can't be stopped or controlled the rider holds the brakes hard and then the controller current spikes and explodes the FETs completely, and/or the power rails to or from them.

If not, it's still almost certainly going to be cheaper to replace the brushed controller than to replace both motor *and* controller with comparable or better brushless.

For batteries, the easiest way to a reliable and safe pack is used EV modules from pladces like GreenTecAuto, BatteryHookup, etc. More details on why are in other posts I've made with this recommendation (searching on GreenTecAuto probably finds them, or modules, etc. )
 
My first recommendation is to read up on the other kart threads, see what they did that works, and what didn't, and what meets your needs / wants out of what they used.

The motor itself is a good motor; it sounds like the controller just couldn't take what the motor needed to do the job it was being asked.

Brushed controllers are "simpler" than brushless, so you might be able to repair it. The usual problem is the FETs fail short circuit (stuck on) then because the motor can't be stopped or controlled the rider holds the brakes hard and then the controller current spikes and explodes the FETs completely, and/or the power rails to or from them.

If not, it's still almost certainly going to be cheaper to replace the brushed controller than to replace both motor *and* controller with comparable or better brushless.

For batteries, the easiest way to a reliable and safe pack is used EV modules from pladces like GreenTecAuto, BatteryHookup, etc. More details on why are in other posts I've made with this recommendation (searching on GreenTecAuto probably finds them, or modules, etc. )
Thanks for your suggestion, I appreciate it!

The problem I’m having with buying a brushed controller is I don’t want to spend several hundred dollars on it just for the motor to fail shortly after. I’d rather just spend more money now and not be trapped with a brushed system (my uneducated assumption is that brushless is better). If I can repair or find a controller suitable for maybe $100 or less I’d definitely consider that option though.

I took some pictures of the brusa controller that burned up. Not sure if it’s repairable or not? Where it burned was between the bars for motor - and battery -. It looks like it was hot and started to melt the orange connection plug also but everything looks fine to me other than the obvious hole.
 

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Motor condition can be tested with an OHM meter across the motor power input terminals.
Rotate the motor to each pole, test for continuity (good) or open circuit (bad) of each pole and also if it has a short to case (bad).
Inspect the commutator and brushes for wear.
Check the bearings condition.
That controller is dead.
Brushless is more energy efficient simply because there are no losses due to the brushes.
 
The problem I’m having with buying a brushed controller is I don’t want to spend several hundred dollars on it just for the motor to fail shortly after.



I’d rather just spend more money now and not be trapped with a brushed system (my uneducated assumption is that brushless is better).
Brushless *is* better for a few reasons:
--a blown controller can't result in stuck-on full throttle
--better efficiency (probably quite a lot)
--potentially better control over the motor, with a fully programmable controller (but these are also a PITA to setup and tune).


Brushed, however, has one advantage, if you have enough raw power available--massive starting torque. ;)

You can get that with brushless, too, but it requires the controller be correctly designed, and in the case of the better programmable ones that they're setup correctly. Many brushless ocntrollers (especially the cheap ones) use some form of soft-start to protect themselves as they can't otherwise handle the startup currents (etc), so they don't create really great startup torque.


I took some pictures of the brusa controller that burned up. Not sure if it’s repairable or not? Where it burned was between the bars for motor - and battery -. It looks like it was hot and started to melt the orange connection plug also but everything looks fine to me other than the obvious hole.
That is a little worse than I imagined...:shock: It *could* be fixed, and if it were in my own system then in my younger days I would have done so, but these days I'd pass. ;)

As far as heat, a plasma fire is VERY hot, even if it is very short (just during the arc flash event) it can heat up a small space to a VERY high temperature, certainly enough to deform plastics.
 
most Curtis models are 100 bux from China , and can be programmed .. cheap solution for brushed motors.. My 65 kw kart cost less than 1200 in total and will stomp any brushless setup Im aware of on the internet .. even when it was 40 kw it was fast
in this video I'm running a 140 dollar controller and a 218 dollar motor..ANyway , get a Curtis controller , I can program it for you for 25 bux plus shipping both ways,. I've done a few for people
 
most Curtis models are 100 bux from China , and can be programmed .. cheap solution for brushed motors.. My 65 kw kart cost less than 1200 in total and will stomp any brushless setup Im aware of on the internet .. even when it was 40 kw it was fast
in this video I'm running a 140 dollar controller and a 218 dollar motor..ANyway , get a Curtis controller , I can program it for you for 25 bux plus shipping both ways,. I've done a few for people
what do you use to program the Chinese controllers? I’ve seen the handheld programmers but heard they are expensive and also read reviews that they don’t work on the Chinese controllers.

I’ve put my build on the back burner and picked up a razor ground force that I’m building for my 3 year old. Had a pwm controller we were running on 48v and it burned up and he went full throttle into the curb…… bought another controller and he is having a blast! I’m thinking about going to a brushless set up.
 
I bought the interface for laptops , works fine with all Chinese curtis controllers.. Ive done about 10 of them. the blue interface is on eBay , I can also do the programming for you for a small fee.. So its pretty easy and cheap to get a 500 amp Curtis controller up and running for a PM motor
 
The burnt controller definitely does NOT look repairable.
Brushed motors can be OK if set up properly and you don't plan to do thousands of miles on it.
You absolutely need some kind of contactor between the controller and motor to disconnect in the event of controller failure. Most golf carts have these wired to the throttle to disconnect anytime the throttle returns to zero.
 
I bought the interface for laptops , works fine with all Chinese curtis controllers.. Ive done about 10 of them. the blue interface is on eBay , I can also do the programming for you for a small fee.. So its pretty easy and cheap to get a 500 amp Curtis controller up and running for a PM motor
These Chinese curtis controllers, are they called curtis or do they look like curtis but with another name?
What are the model numbers of the ones you use?
 
they look like Curtis and use the same model numbers, they're all over the internet.. Ive used a wife variety , almost all the 1205 and 1204 series, I'm running an original 144 v on my go kart ( 8601 model ) but the rest are all Chinese imitations. no issues , yes the 1253-8001 are geberally defective out of the box , but I simply don't buy those anymore
 
you can run contactors and that's preferred , if not willing to go that route a simple disconnect on the positive lead from the controller to the motor that you can access will do the same job. amazon.com/GOGONFLY-Disconnect-Isolator-Waterproof-Terminals/dp/B09J25P42X/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.f3a06935-0d55-4a43-b918-4ea35f8505e5%3Aamzn1.sym.f3a06935-0d55-4a43-b918-4ea35f8505e5&cv_ct_cx=high+amp+battery+disconnect+switch&hvadid=777893603678&hvdev=c&hvexpln=67&hvlocphy=9027232&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=92877620112905219--&hvqmt=b&hvrand=92877620112905219&hvtargid=kwd-305675365815&hydadcr=5769_13510159&keywords=high+amp+battery+disconnect+switch&mcid=d530e8ec87ae3c2c89cac97cf4835821&pd_rd_i=B09J25P42X&pd_rd_r=1080870e-84bb-4989-be5c-a67cdb8c078b&pd_rd_w=500aT&pd_rd_wg=znBcM&pf_rd_p=f3a06935-0d55-4a43-b918-4ea35f8505e5&pf_rd_r=RT238ZVCFEY1N2SPSZP7&qid=1761100359&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=1-5-6024b2a3-78e4-4fed-8fed-e1613be3bcce-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1

this is your emergency cutoff , in the rare event the controller fries in the wide open position.. Precharge is easy also , as Curtis manual gives you the ideal ohm and watt rating for the precharge resistor.. ( this loop simple bypasses the on off between the controller and the battery pack.. Normally , about 500ohm 10 watt is needed.
 
This is all being said, this is simply the cheapest route to getting that motor and kart on the road.. You could do a qs/ardriver combo, but expect to spend 800 or so. The absolute cheapest method a simple 4 wire YK43b .. its 60v around 196amp when tested.. they're 50 bucks and drop in ready .. they don't have any low voltage protections or precharge arrangements, but they make for a good 30 mph kart with bland acceleration. yk link Amazon.com you could even run SLA agm batteries with this controller.. I' did it years ago and put hundreds of miles on some of the bikes. This eliminates the need for BMS or complex charging..
 
they look like Curtis and use the same model numbers, they're all over the internet.. Ive used a wife variety , almost all the 1205 and 1204 series, I'm running an original 144 v on my go kart ( 8601 model ) but the rest are all Chinese imitations. no issues , yes the 1253-8001 are geberally defective out of the box , but I simply don't buy those anymore
Sorry to hijack this thread, but I suppose you mean controllers like these?:


Just 400A and 72V, and not that cheap.


Better with 600A 80V, but double the price and the model you say are generally defektive.
 
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the controller was from eBay for 168 , not from AliExpress. Pardon Our Interruption... generally speaking , I think you need more experience for these setups , the Chinese 4 wire controller is ideal.( also known as yk43B 24-60
 
yes the 600a 80v are very hard to program and wire , there's too many fault sensors you need to defeat , don't bother ( that assumes u get a good one and odds are slim
 
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