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No power to G062 1000w hub on an ABLE A7 ebike

Tazman

Established
Joined
Dec 20, 2018
Messages
77
Location
North Yorkshire. U.K
I have power on, display(C961)works fine, no errors, p.a.s changes 1 to 5 on display, freewheel MPH shows when peddling or by hand, even changed the p.a.s wire etc, all conectors checked, battery(52v)is full and working,gʻ no signs of wear on the Bafang motor cable. Checked brakes for sticking. Was just peddling along at 20mph then just no throttle or P.A.S anymore.
Could this be an issue with the controller, if so i then do i just change the controller.

Any help please guys.
 

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This thread makes me sad. :(
Uhh, if you can, scrap all their batttery and controller stuff and use your own.
Hopefully that motor runs with 3 phases and halls.
Halls are not necessary in my world.
That entire deal is FUBAR, IMO.
It goes against everything I am, just about.
That ain't no Hutch Trick Star or Powerlite. That is like cheap Home Depot yard equipment.
That's no Cannondale or Schwinn World Tour.
They got their proprietary BS where they got ya, with their cheap crap.
I'm sorry. Merry Christmas.
 
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Long story short, lop the ends off the wires and you need, power, phases, and 5 hall wires that are the same colors but smaller.
Oh, and on/off and throttle. And use your own controller and throttle.
Throttle is 3 wires, Positive, Negative, and signal.
A throttle is basically a resistor.
I bought a bad one and it just cost me $100
Because I couldn't believe it was bad, but it was.
Turns out it was 1 bad throttle.
I got good controllers and all kindsa stuff.
All you need is on/off, phases, and throttle to go down the road.
You can add hall sensors if you want to.
That's basically what I see in ol' boy's plug.
I see switch on wires, phases, and hall sensors, amiwrong?
Displays and speed sensors are not necessary.
 
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I have power on, display(C961)works fine, no errors, p.a.s changes 1 to 5 on display, freewheel MPH shows when peddling or by hand, even changed the p.a.s wire etc, all conectors checked, battery(52v)is full and working,gʻ no signs of wear on the Bafang motor cable. Checked brakes for sticking. Was just peddling along at 20mph then just no throttle or P.A.S anymore.
Could this be an issue with the controller, if so i then do i just change the controller.

Any help please guys.
So the new controller failed again in the same manner as your previous one? Maybe you need to test your motor.
 
This is easily checked (motor vs controller), if you had a spare controller with the same motor plug. Plug in a working one and see what happens, Are there any local shops that would be willing to do that test for cheap?

You would expect error codes on a Bafang C961 would tell you if the controller couldn't fire the motor phases or see the Hall sensor signals. Probably the controller.
 
Everything was in fine working order till it happened!!! A gut feeĺing says its me and not the controller, it tells the display MPH when wheel turns freely. So does that mean there is something(power) coming from the hub to tell the control then display. Sorry if im abit confused.
No E-HP, i got the wrong one sent as in the wrong motor connector and a 8 pin mainline instead of a 9 pin
So the new controller failed again in the same manner as your previous one? Maybe you need to test your motor.
Ive sent your reply in my last convo
 
This is easily checked (motor vs controller), if you had a spare controller with the same motor plug. Plug in a working one and see what happens, Are there any local shops that would be willing to do that test for cheap?

You would expect error codes on a Bafang C961 would tell you if the controller couldn't fire the motor phases or see the Hall sensor signals. Probably the controller
 
This is easily checked (motor vs controller), if you had a spare controller with the same motor plug. Plug in a working one and see what happens, Are there any local shops that would be willing to do that test for cheap?

You would expect error codes on a Bafang C961 would tell you if the controller couldn't fire the motor phases or see the Hall sensor signals. Probably the controller.
So in your opinion its the controller?
 
The speed display requires the controller to read the speed sensor in the motor and send the data as a data packet to the display. It does require a high level of functionality, The display is able to read data from the controller, but it doesn't prove that the display is able to tell the controller to choose a PAS level and enable the throttle. The controller could be stuck, for example in PAS 0 and not have the throttle enabled.

You also are posting pictures of a LSW controller and screenshots of something else. You need to be clear about what you are using. All we know is you have a G060, a C961, and they were working.

Most chinese controllers that use displays have the ability to be powered up w/o the display. Then they almost always have a default PAS and throttle. Knowing more info about what display you have, and its display connector would help in determining whether to try that.
 
Hi. Been asked to send some photos in again cause my others were misleading.
1st motor kind, 2nd controller, 3rd motor lead, 4th 9pin main lead, 5th P.A.S lead and also been asked to send in a photo C961 display and lead. Anymore just please ask.
 

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Too bad. I didn't think Bafang's C961 for a hubmotor used a female connector from the display, Most displays for hubmotors use a male 5 pin,

What do you other guys think? Should he try to jumper the battery/control pins in his controller? It's tougher with a male connector.
 
Too bad. I didn't think Bafang's C961 for a hubmotor used a female connector from the display, Most displays for hubmotors use a male 5 pin, What do you other guys think? Should he try to jumper the battery/control pins in his controller? It's tougher with a male connector.
Too bad. I didn't think Bafang's C961 for a hubmotor used a female connector from the display, Most displays for hubmotors use a male 5 pin, What do you other guys think? Should he try to jumper the battery/control pins in his controller? It's tougher with a male connector.
 
I was going to suggest you try starting the controller without a display, If the bike runs, it means the display had a fault, But you don't have the usual arrangement with male pins on the display. That probably means the pin order is different, so it's too risky to try as you'll fry the controller if miswired.. Sorry. Have no simple tricks left.

To avoid throwing money at the project, you have to first find out if motor works, which means connecting a known good controller. Then, assuming motor works, you jumper the controller to run w/o display, If motor runs, then the display was not working right. If motor doesn't run, the controller was bad.

You can buy a cheap motor tester to test the sensors, but then you have to get a motor plug to connect it, Probably an L1019, and they cost a bundle.
 
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