NO WAY! I SPUN A BEARING?!!!!!!!

[I AM 0Z]

I went through this huge hassle of buying this new controller from the ecrazyman guy and learning everything I needed to know about testing the motor, it's components, and procedures for wiring this controller to the devices of my bike. I didn't even get the damn thing out on the road. You know, I kind of thought that being removed from driving or riding anything with an internal combustion engine I would be free of the mechanical hassles that they share with you. BUT OH NO!! The damn thing locked up tighter than a drum while free wheel testing. It appears that a bearing that is pressed into one of the motor caps actually locked itself onto the the armature shaft and the bearing froze solid spinning the outer race in the cap and when I went to pull the motor cap off I actually pulled the bearing out of the cap. Wow what it took to get the cap off the motor, not to mention what it tool to get the bearing off the shaft. And wouldn't you just know it, it's the side that the wires come through the armature shaft!! I actually managed to get the cap off with no damage to it save the fact that the bearing pulled loose from it. What a mess! So, there i sat looking at this tragedy and that same sick feeling I had in the pit of stomach that I had when a truck i owned spun a crankshaft bearing while driving home from work once. Fortunately, I know a guy that has a TIG welder and i have him add material to the cap where the bearing presses in and re-machine the motor cap to hold a new bearing. I should have documented all this in photos. Now here I sit waiting for the parts to arrive so I can finish this up and put it back together and then we'll see what now tragedy awaits around the next corner.

 

[docnjoj]

What kind of motor is it?
otherDoc

 

[I AM 0Z]

It's a New Hope 48 volt 500 watt motor................ I know, right? Never heard of one before?

 

[trappermike]

As a motorcycle mechanic I can tell you I am not surprised. First, Chinese bearings are very poor quality.They are a very common size,just order new sealed bearings from your local bearing supply store they will be fine(About $10 each). If the bearing is loose in the side housing you can fix this too,very cheaply. Go and buy some Loctite,"Green-Permanent locating".Coat the hole and the outside of the bearing,and put it together. Allow 24 hours to set.This is not a flimsy fix,that bearing will be located solidly,and you will need a torch and some heat to remove it at some future date. I have used this in motorcycles and snowmobiles and no failures,or you can buy a new housing.....Usually as a bearing stiffens up and is siezing,this causes it to to start to spin in it's hole. JB Weld or Locktite weld will achieve the same results,but harder to disassemble in the future.

 

[Lessss]

Pictures please for our education.

 

[trappermike]

I told you ,explain to this dummy,step by step how to post photos,and I will.

 

[trappermike]

DAMMIT JIM I"M a DOCTOR!!! Star Trek...

 

[docnjoj]

Actually, Im a doctor! So here U go step by step!

1. Take Digital photo on your camera!
2. Get photo into your computer with the little connector wire!
3. Know where u put the photo on ur pooter, like the directory or folder it went to.
4. Reduce your photo to about 900x 700 pixels using a photo editor! Windows comes with one!
5. Open endless sphere and go to "Post a reply"
6. Go down the screen until u see "Upload attachment" and click it
7.click on the box marked "Browse" and find your photo on your computer
8. Click on "add photo"
9.Click on "Place inline"
10 Click "Preview"
11. If it looks good, click "Submit"
otherDoc (I just couldnt resist a straight line like that)

 

[trappermike]

Dammit Jim I'm a doctor!! I don't have a new-fangled digital camera yet...

 

[docnjoj]

Better get one soon! They even sell disposable ones cheep!
otherDoc

 

[youreaspeedemon]

i have him add material to the cap where the bearing presses in and re-machine the motor cap to hold a new bearing

I'm not sure how your covers are designed but I had too much play between shaft, bearing (the bearings have play because of design and quality) and cover on a x5304, I took it apart and unfortuanately there is no way to tighten it up, no proper shoulder to sandwich everything together tight, exact machining is not evident in the quality of these motors. The bearing was a little loose in the cover so I took a center punch and dimpled the seat, I then put the bearing back in but didn't seat it all the way flush to take out some of the slop and it seems to be working great.

 

[I AM 0Z]

Well, there is such a thing as shim stock and once you have determined the amount of play you want removed then you can make a shim to put in the bearing seat to raise it up that distance. When I re machined mine i actually under cut the the seat about 15 thousandths so there would be no doubt that it would sit flat against the new seat and perpendicular with the diameter of the outer race bore. but it was a long drawn out process of re adding material to the seat and bore to ensure that there where no pits left in the machined surface and that's how it goes when adding material to a weathered, grease, and oil impregnated piece of aluminum. It took having it re welded 8 different times to finally get it to come out a smooth a flawless finish. The thing is though, as i was only doing the one side I machined it to match it's mating side because the hall sensors are mounted on the armature on the other side. Should I find myself having to open it back up again (and I am quite sure one day I will) I will look into shimming the slack out of the distance between the inner race and the shaft seat provided it doesn't look like the extra space between the bearings and the shafts seats doesn't look like it's there for thermal expansion when the motor gets hot. Good call buddy