rusty bearings, and filling motor cavity with oil ?`

[fill]

I am 'fixing' a rusty neglected taoci-02 (amazon budget) ebike. 36v250w eu legal

The major fix is replacement of the water damaged headset and controller, i have a KT 36/48v 22a controller with a 10hlcd headset ready.

a prima facia inspection of the rear hub motor encased in a 3 spoke alloy wheel reveals rusty hub cap bearings which explain the crunchy feel when the wheel is spun and its tendency to stop quicker than optimum
(Im not winning any photography awards i know)
I expect the other bearing is in the same state, i dont think my biggest puller could be configured to push the motor and gearbox free of the hub?

and even if i can pull the motor both bearings are embeded in blind seats.

the only way i can think of extracting the bearings is to bolt down to seal off the open bearing centre, and then use the grease and rag shoved in hard with a snug fitting rod trick, which is both a real pita to set up and a pita to do TWICE!! and prone to leaks and mess.. i wold bolt the hub cap onto some 12mm ply, same for the wheel body using the disk brake screw holes for anchoring,

then i noticed the cavity the motor occupies and the space around it.. I have read about folk using oil inside direct drive hub motors even ferro-fluids, Now this is a geared motor but i was wondering if adding some oil to this motor could help lube the rusty bearings and help stop them getting worse or at least slow it down, and perhaps add some cooling for the what appears to be an isolated motor within an air pocket

I understand that such an oil solution can absorb and distribute more heat than the nylon gears can handle, but if the temperature could be monitored and power cut before any dangerous temps are reached has this got any legs??

Or am i just clutching at straws trying to avoid the messy and long job of bearing extraction etc..

 

[nicobie]

There is not a step on the inside of the bearing that you could use a screwdriver on to bang them out?

 

[electric_nz]

I don’t think youll need a puller. There only should be a circlip or something holding the motor in the rim, or even just the pull of the magnets. Strongly suggest taking it all apart and replacing bearings, you’re practically there already.

The motor won’t last 5 minutes with rusty bearings

 

[fill]

Sorry for my silence, ive been preoccupied with life, all good just busy..

There is not a step on the inside of the bearing that you could use a screwdriver on to bang them out?

Possibly, but it would involve banging on the end of a 'screwdriver at 45 degrees on the inner lip of the bearing? would that be acceptable?
I'm ignorant experience has told me whenever i have attacked any problem hitting hard and hoping especially at a bad angle at best i encourage head shakes and disapproval but more usually i break something..

I don’t think youll need a puller. There only should be a circlip or something holding the motor in the rim, or even just the pull of the magnets. Strongly suggest taking it all apart and replacing bearings, you’re practically there already.

The motor won’t last 5 minutes with rusty bearings

I will do once i work out how to.. I dont mind sitting tapping away with a hammer round n round for however long I just dont want to repeat earlier mistakes.

 

[motomech]

Once the races and balls have some rust, their surfaces are pitted, and oil or no, they will wear more over time.
I've changed out axle brg.s on a mini geared motor and once out, there will be numbers o n the raceswhere you can match them.
Unless that's a valuable motor, it's probably not worth the trouble. But I'm a little out of touch, geared mini's were a $100 new when I was working on them.
Putting oil in these motors make a grreat chain oiler, as oil get all over everything, including the tire.

 

[AGS]

The bearing has to be replaced, so either tap it out or buy a slide hammer from screwfix for £16.

 

[Slowchris11]

These bearings are dead cheap standard stuff, less than 1€ a piece. You may use a better one, with more balls inside, higher load and better gasket for about 2€.
To remove them, first take out the seal on the outer side. As you seem to be an unexperienced mechanic with a tendency to brake things, don't just hammer on the poor thing.
First, repeatedly soak the bearings outer ring with some kind of spray made for the task. Let it work for half an hour. Get a heat gun. Now have a close look at the inside of the cover. If you just place it on a table and hammer at the bearing, it will flex and at some point break.
You need something round with a hole the bearings size in it. Call it a ring. I Simply take some plywood and cut such a ring from it.
So the idea is to support the cover close to the bearing, which makes it less prone to breaking and flexing.
OK, you got your support ring. Now find something massive in your tool box that fit's on the bearing. Some socket wrench with an extention should fit. Use the heat gun on the cover until it smokes. Now tap the extention to drive out the old bearing.

The motor side may be a bit fiddly to get out. Use rust remover spray to loosen axle and bearing. There should be a nut that holds the axle. Remove it.
Be carefull when tapping the axle. It will fall down without warning, hit the floor with the connection wire first and be unuseable.

 

[fill]

These bearings are dead cheap standard stuff, less than 1€ a piece. You may use a better one, with more balls inside, higher load and better gasket for about 2€.
To remove them, first take out the seal on the outer side. As you seem to be an unexperienced mechanic with a tendency to brake things, don't just hammer on the poor thing.
First, repeatedly soak the bearings outer ring with some kind of spray made for the task. Let it work for half an hour. Get a heat gun. Now have a close look at the inside of the cover. If you just place it on a table and hammer at the bearing, it will flex and at some point break.
You need something round with a hole the bearings size in it. Call it a ring. I Simply take some plywood and cut such a ring from it.
So the idea is to support the cover close to the bearing, which makes it less prone to breaking and flexing.
OK, you got your support ring. Now find something massive in your tool box that fit's on the bearing. Some socket wrench with an extention should fit. Use the heat gun on the cover until it smokes. Now tap the extention to drive out the old bearing.

The motor side may be a bit fiddly to get out. Use rust remover spray to loosen axle and bearing. There should be a nut that holds the axle. Remove it.
Be carefull when tapping the axle. It will fall down without warning, hit the floor with the connection wire first and be unuseable.

Perhaps i wasnt clear or i misunderstood you? , these are in a blind hole with only the axle diameter open .. so to hit it out i will need to tap it round and round at an awkward 45 degree angle hitting only the inner race sitting a socket on the bearing and tapping it from the only accessible side would burry it deeper into the semi-blind? hole. same for the motor side.. alloy case down to the axle diameter.

cant replace the motor easily as its in a 3 spoke alloy wheel, and a standard spoked wheel would look way out of place.. the oil idea has long since past newbie foolishness

 

[motomech]

Perhaps i wasnt clear or i misunderstood you? , these are in a blind hole with only the axle diameter open .. so to hit it out i will need to tap it round and round at an awkward 45 degree angle hitting only the inner race sitting a socket on the bearing and tapping it from the only accessible side would burry it deeper into the semi-blind? hole. same for the motor side.. alloy case down to the axle diameter.

cant replace the motor easily as its in a 3 spoke alloy wheel, and a standard spoked wheel would look way out of place.. the oil idea has long since past newbie foolishness

1)Carefuly drill two small holes in the backside that align w/ the outer races.
2)use a punch to tap out the old brg.
3)Plug the holes w/ JB Weld (or suitable metal epoxy)
4)Before installing the new Brg, carefuly remove the seals w/ a scribe/pick and pack/fill the Brg. w/ grease by squeezing it between your palms.
5)reinstall seals.

 

[AGS]

This tool should get them out.

Inner Bearing Puller Set Remover Slide Hammer Internal Kit 8-32mm 9pc Blind Hole for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Inner Bearing Puller Set Remover Slide Hammer Internal Kit 8-32mm 9pc Blind Hole at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[fill]

This tool should get them out.

Inner Bearing Puller Set Remover Slide Hammer Internal Kit 8-32mm 9pc Blind Hole for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Inner Bearing Puller Set Remover Slide Hammer Internal Kit 8-32mm 9pc Blind Hole at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

New tools are always interesting, thanks for the pointer.. and with the model i may be able to knock up a diy version and if not its not gonna break the bank and i will be prepared for the next time too Cheers..

 

[AGS]

Plenty of people have made diy slide hammers. It all depends upon what you have laying around in the garage.