oatnet
1 MW
Really sorry to hear about your cats, and the loss of your apartment, but I am glad you and your roommate are alive.
-JD
-JD
Norco A-line 144v 200amp Lipo 150km/h build
- Thread starter Andje
- Start date
Andje
10 kW
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2010
- Messages
- 779
View attachment 5
View attachment 1
Here are some pics from the in progress stages of the build. Its final finished form is undergoing shakedown atm. I hit GPS verified 120km/h yesterday, but I don't think she'll do much more then that in flat. Saw 25 amps regen at 150v too, and pulled 117 battery at 158v. Good times.
scriewy
100 W
sheesh pic 849 with those loosely hanging phases just screams BADASS 
congrats on 120kmh
congrats on 120kmh
Andje
10 kW
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2010
- Messages
- 779
Update-
So one of my 40 chunks of batts died, so I have had to pull apart the fiberglass case. Good news is that was easy as hell; the packing tape layer I used on the batts inside meant that they literally slid out of the case after I dremeled it open. So I'm redoing the case and 100 of the batteries; I overcharged the 10s group with the dead batt, that's how I found it. The rest of that 10s chunk went to 4.31 so I anticipate loss of 10-15% capacity as DB reported a couple years ago. They are being replaced. Also the reason for the failure wasn't the process I was using; upon investigation the chunk that failed didn't undergo the vetting process all the others did; the rest sat for weeks to weed out the week ones or the hidden self-discharging cell that would take them all to zero. The chunk that failed I put together right at the end to replace a pack that had died during the vetting procedure. So I have confidence that the reason this went tits up is because I didn't follow my own correct procedure, and that the other 300 batteries should be good to go.
I also destroyed the most expensive downhill rim available with one fairly good jump, IE 50km/h off a 5 foot hill onto flat, prbly flew 15-20 feet. The bike is really well balanced, but the 14 guage spokes just couldn't take it, and I think I need to tune the rear shock as well, it should have absorbed more of the drop... Anyway, I'm going to 11/12 JRH spokes and a 21 inch moto rim and DOT rated rear tire. I may have to redo the rear dropouts to move the tire backwards an inch or so to make it fit in the long run, we shall see.
The battery might be done this season, but I guess it's next year for this build as the Canadian winter is already rearing it's ugly head. Brace yourselves...
I'm going to spend the winter rebuilding and making it look pretty I guess.
So one of my 40 chunks of batts died, so I have had to pull apart the fiberglass case. Good news is that was easy as hell; the packing tape layer I used on the batts inside meant that they literally slid out of the case after I dremeled it open. So I'm redoing the case and 100 of the batteries; I overcharged the 10s group with the dead batt, that's how I found it. The rest of that 10s chunk went to 4.31 so I anticipate loss of 10-15% capacity as DB reported a couple years ago. They are being replaced. Also the reason for the failure wasn't the process I was using; upon investigation the chunk that failed didn't undergo the vetting process all the others did; the rest sat for weeks to weed out the week ones or the hidden self-discharging cell that would take them all to zero. The chunk that failed I put together right at the end to replace a pack that had died during the vetting procedure. So I have confidence that the reason this went tits up is because I didn't follow my own correct procedure, and that the other 300 batteries should be good to go.
I also destroyed the most expensive downhill rim available with one fairly good jump, IE 50km/h off a 5 foot hill onto flat, prbly flew 15-20 feet. The bike is really well balanced, but the 14 guage spokes just couldn't take it, and I think I need to tune the rear shock as well, it should have absorbed more of the drop... Anyway, I'm going to 11/12 JRH spokes and a 21 inch moto rim and DOT rated rear tire. I may have to redo the rear dropouts to move the tire backwards an inch or so to make it fit in the long run, we shall see.
The battery might be done this season, but I guess it's next year for this build as the Canadian winter is already rearing it's ugly head. Brace yourselves...
I'm going to spend the winter rebuilding and making it look pretty I guess.
MattyCiii
100 kW
I've been down that road. It has some bumps... but It's probably worth it (why do I say "probably?" because I've only been up to about 1/5th your speed on this bike/these wheels!)Andje said:
Here are some thoughts from the experience:
1) Starting with the hub - I wanted a NuVinci, so that meant there would be a top end to the strain I could put on the hub flange. This ultimately meant 13GA JRH spokes with oversized nipples (and washers, because the oversized spoke nipples were still too small). Link: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=37207&start=60#p589891. I know your drive is different, but spoke flange strength might still be a consideration.
2) I didn't shop for rims and tires at the same time. So, I convinced myself to buy 21" rims and 2.5" tires. Too bad I bought the rims before realizing that 2.5" tires were impossible to find. 2.75" tires not too available either. I went with 3" tires, since that was the smallest I could find. This made for a really tight fit:
Presently, I have like 1mm clearance on each side of the chain stays. That's plenty-good, as the rim is solid and the wheel is true - but it's really really close.
Bottom line - look into 21", 20" and 19" rims, and shop for tires at the same time. Don't buy till you have a combo you like.
( Don't let the pic below fool you, in that picture I have spacers on the axle widening the rear.)
3) Radius: Noting that my custom dropouts push the rear axle back 3" and down 1", the 21" rim and 3" tire works fine radius wise. Looks like it would work with the standard dropouts, actually. IIRC, your dropouts push the axel back about 2"?
If you want me to take any measurements for clearance sake, let me know.
4) Again, without long term and high speed tests, take this with a grain of salt - but...
If you buy a tubeless motorcycle or scooter tire, stick with tubeless technology all the way. I have a tube mounted in a tubeless wheel in the rear - had to have it installed professionally, and per the mechanic it was an SOB. The front is pure tubeless, using "Stan's Tubeless" fluid and rim tape. The wheel went together much easier - installed by the same shop/mechanic.
Link: http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=39821&hilit=continental&start=15#p587532