Hyena
10 GW
mwkeefer said:
Highpowered And Geared
Mike has a F.A.G H.A.G :lol:
(behave yourself Kim before we get another thread locked
)
Norco Empire 8150 build (page 20 pic heavy)
- Thread starter Timma2500
- Start date
Highpowered And Geared
Mike has a F.A.G H.A.G :lol:
(behave yourself Kim before we get another thread locked
)
AussieJester
1 TW
Hyena said:(behave yourself Kim before we get another thread locked
:: looks innocently around :: who me?
Dam Frock loving admins get your boys under control Hyena I wonder if Paul gets to take his bike down to the farm during the week? I'm looking forward to seeing this bike in person
im sure the pictures aren't doing it justice as nice at it does look in them.
I'll quote Mr Recumpence SiRs response to the side by side shots of mine and Matts bikes from my worklog
Mr Recumpence SiR said:
The addition of Pauls ride in the shot will make that pic oh so much sweeter IMO, will be my new desktop wallpaper too! i definately
haven't seen a nicer e-mtb than Pauls including store bought offerings like the Stealth and Opti bike, its pure art and testament
to what can be done with minimal tools and bucket loads of skill...Heaven helps us builders if Paul gets his hands on a lathe and mill
KiM
p.s AUSSIE AUSSIE AUSSIE
Timma2500
1 kW
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Timma2500
1 kW
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rodgah
10 kW
Where did you find balancers for your charger? I have been pulling my hair out trying to find all the components to have 2 networked LBA10s with adaptor cables for jst-xh (turnigy packs). although from the pic they dont look like LBA10s
full-throttle
1 MW
I really like this build!
* simple lines
* RC drive
* stealth (apart from the noise)
* great battery enclosure
Got some skills there too. Have you worked with steel?
* simple lines
* RC drive
* stealth (apart from the noise)
* great battery enclosure
Got some skills there too. Have you worked with steel?
recumpence
1 GW
Timma,
Amp ratings for a brushless motor mean nothing other than efficiency target.
Feed that thing all the amps you want and just monitor the temps.
I cannot promise the driveline witll hold up (I do not know anything about the planetary). But, the motor will survive just fine.
Matt
Amp ratings for a brushless motor mean nothing other than efficiency target.
Feed that thing all the amps you want and just monitor the temps.
I cannot promise the driveline witll hold up (I do not know anything about the planetary). But, the motor will survive just fine.
Matt
Timma2500
1 kW
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AussieJester
1 TW
Timma2500 said:
I think its very selfish of you working away and leaving us all here to wait a whole week for another instalment Paul
you needz to get a job closer to home
KiM
Timma2500
1 kW
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mwkeefer
1 MW
Timma,
My math could be a bit off but it seems you are running the HV140 with a 100A limit right?
100A burst into your 8150 would be 687.82 in oz of torque at the output shaft of the motor...
then 1.57 HTD to the input shaft / pinion of the BaneBot 16:1 gives you 1079.8997 in oz or 5.6244 ft lbs of torque.
Now the bane bot 16:1 P80 acheives an output torque of 17278.0384 in oz or 89.9898 ft lbs of torque (assuming 100% efficiency of drive line I know)... are you counting on the losses in the HTD belt or the internal planetary drive of the banebot to reduce torque to the maximum stated 85 ft lbs?
I spoke with the engineers at banebot and they were even a bit hinkey about the 85ft lb limit, they suggested given my shaft torque (about the same as yours, maybe a touch higher) that I look at using the 3:1 or a 9:1 if I wanted to go dual stage as the planets have more engagement and teeth while still allowing for 9.5mm input shaft / pinion..
To take my math to the logical conclusion... you have 18/34t from the eno output of the BaneBot right? Then 169.9817 ft lbs of torque at the bottom bracket... how does this effect the torque loading on the banebot?
170 ft lbs of torque? 1 word, WOW.
I can see you though this out the same as me... how much torque can the best human possibly acheive in sprint mode, what bike can handle that type of riding.. let's add some to it and make it electric so I don't have to pedal if I don't want (but well matched to cadence so you can if you want).
I am anxious to find out if the Circlip popped or if the retaining shroud (or whatever you call it) within the bearing block was broken (that is the high torque side)... Wouldn't a collet with a retaining plate be a much better solution for lateral forces (IE: it wouldn't push out then)... if the shim/shroud went... why would there be such high lateral force, do you think a retaining plate and a thrust bearing is in order?
My solution is taking a 3210 and running it y for 10.9030 in oz per A at the shaft and using the BaneBot in a simliar manor of HTD belt drive (though... I think for 5 -10 ft lbs of torque 15mm might be a bit much)?
-Mike
My math could be a bit off but it seems you are running the HV140 with a 100A limit right?
100A burst into your 8150 would be 687.82 in oz of torque at the output shaft of the motor...
then 1.57 HTD to the input shaft / pinion of the BaneBot 16:1 gives you 1079.8997 in oz or 5.6244 ft lbs of torque.
Now the bane bot 16:1 P80 acheives an output torque of 17278.0384 in oz or 89.9898 ft lbs of torque (assuming 100% efficiency of drive line I know)... are you counting on the losses in the HTD belt or the internal planetary drive of the banebot to reduce torque to the maximum stated 85 ft lbs?
I spoke with the engineers at banebot and they were even a bit hinkey about the 85ft lb limit, they suggested given my shaft torque (about the same as yours, maybe a touch higher) that I look at using the 3:1 or a 9:1 if I wanted to go dual stage as the planets have more engagement and teeth while still allowing for 9.5mm input shaft / pinion..
To take my math to the logical conclusion... you have 18/34t from the eno output of the BaneBot right? Then 169.9817 ft lbs of torque at the bottom bracket... how does this effect the torque loading on the banebot?
170 ft lbs of torque? 1 word, WOW.
I can see you though this out the same as me... how much torque can the best human possibly acheive in sprint mode, what bike can handle that type of riding.. let's add some to it and make it electric so I don't have to pedal if I don't want (but well matched to cadence so you can if you want).
I am anxious to find out if the Circlip popped or if the retaining shroud (or whatever you call it) within the bearing block was broken (that is the high torque side)... Wouldn't a collet with a retaining plate be a much better solution for lateral forces (IE: it wouldn't push out then)... if the shim/shroud went... why would there be such high lateral force, do you think a retaining plate and a thrust bearing is in order?
My solution is taking a 3210 and running it y for 10.9030 in oz per A at the shaft and using the BaneBot in a simliar manor of HTD belt drive (though... I think for 5 -10 ft lbs of torque 15mm might be a bit much)?
-Mike
AussieJester
1 TW
Glad this thread got bumped i was going to do so yesterday but was side tracked TIMMAAAAA where are you??!?! Anyone seen Timma?
KiM
KiM
rodgah
10 kW
i too was wondering where timma disappeared to,
obviously sideways, setting record times uphill on downhill tracks
obviously sideways, setting record times uphill on downhill tracks
mwkeefer
1 MW
Not sure about uphill on the dh track, think he still has an issue with the P80 GB circlip on the output shaft (ENO side)... but hoping he isn't just stuck in traffic with the new job and commute.
-Mike
-Mike
AussieJester
1 TW
Typical, hes been waiting for me to get my bike ready so we
can meet up for a ride, now poor Timmas is broke...we shall
get things right the planets will align and we will
be good to go LoL
KiM
can meet up for a ride, now poor Timmas is broke...we shall
get things right the planets will align and we will
be good to go LoL
KiM
What a great looking build. You are building the bike I have been waiting for anyone to build. Light weight, offroad bike that can handle the downhill abuse. When you get into any type of production I will be first in line!
Question: why did you go with the Astro Flight 8150 and not the 3210 or 3220?
Question: why did you go with the Astro Flight 8150 and not the 3210 or 3220?
Timma2500
1 kW
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AussieJester
1 TW
Bout bloody time you got back to pal You, Matt.P and myself have something in common
all our bikes are "finished" but all 3 are out of commision :? ...For me the HTD belt
on the reduction drive wasn't upto the Turnigys torque unfortunately one
belt became two and the bike stopped going forward and is again parked looking prutty
in the workshop :-| Matt.P has no BMS for his crusier so thats also parked up till he gets a new one
Our group ride is again on hold :: sigh ::
Hope you get the bike up and running soonz anywayz mate...
KiM
You, Matt.P and myself have something in commonall our bikes are "finished" but all 3 are out of commision :? ...For me the HTD belt
on the reduction drive wasn't upto the Turnigys torque unfortunately one
belt became two and the bike stopped going forward and is again parked looking prutty
in the workshop :-| Matt.P has no BMS for his crusier so thats also parked up till he gets a new one
Our group ride is again on hold :: sigh ::
Hope you get the bike up and running soonz anywayz mate...
KiM
Hyena
10 GW
Wow, RC / chain drive motors out of commission again, who'd of thunk inAussieJester said:
Heyna
HUb motors suck compared to the RC/ Cyclone chain drive. When it comes to the hill climbing, speed and overall motor longevity due to the over heating low rpm that is real mountain biking is.
Hub motors are great for the commuter 20mph crowd.
I have had three hub motors and they have all been a huge dissapointment. Chain drive has been much more rewarding! Never wheeleied a hub motor. Or climbed a 20% grade with out killing the hub motor.
Plus a hub motor is not a ev "build" it is just a series of bolt ons to a bike!
Ok I am getting off the box to go ride!
Great build Timma2500!!!!
HUb motors suck compared to the RC/ Cyclone chain drive. When it comes to the hill climbing, speed and overall motor longevity due to the over heating low rpm that is real mountain biking is.
Hub motors are great for the commuter 20mph crowd.
I have had three hub motors and they have all been a huge dissapointment. Chain drive has been much more rewarding! Never wheeleied a hub motor. Or climbed a 20% grade with out killing the hub motor.
Plus a hub motor is not a ev "build" it is just a series of bolt ons to a bike!
Ok I am getting off the box to go ride!
Great build Timma2500!!!!
vanilla ice
1 MW
Which is exactly why people love them. Not everybody has a welder and a milling machine.waxman123 said:
Hyena
10 GW
I was more have a joke with AJ but yes both hub motors and rc/chain drives have their ups and downs. While I agree the off the shelf hub motors aren't dazzling on 36v with a 20a controller they do have potential and alot of the people who knock them obviously haven't ridden well sorted high power ones. My modded hub takes over 5000w does over 45 mph and has plenty of torque to wheeliewaxman123 said:
Yeah, I've found that unless you're running a super beefy belt like those on motorcycles, the electric torque can easily break a typical 5M pitch HTD belt. This is why I think chains are far superior for high torque applications.
(Or you can use a high-tooth count driver timing pulley, to held distribute the tooth load. It'll lower the effective gear ratio on the belt stage, though, but I think the chain stage can probably compensate. If the purpose of belt was quietness, though, a faster running chain that's louder would be counter-productive.)
Other than the belt drive, I've found my RC system to be pretty reliable. With the current limit down, it doesn't break the belt but it does limit it to not-so stellar torque.
(Or you can use a high-tooth count driver timing pulley, to held distribute the tooth load. It'll lower the effective gear ratio on the belt stage, though, but I think the chain stage can probably compensate. If the purpose of belt was quietness, though, a faster running chain that's louder would be counter-productive.)
Other than the belt drive, I've found my RC system to be pretty reliable. With the current limit down, it doesn't break the belt but it does limit it to not-so stellar torque.
