Timma2500
1 kW
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Norco Empire 8150 build (page 20 pic heavy)
- Thread starter Timma2500
- Start date
Hyena
10 GW
Looks like you're right at our 200w legal limit there Paul :lol:
etard
100 kW
Hey Paul,
First off congrats! Secondly, thanks for testing the limits of that banebot, what would you say is the practical limit on these things for a 3000km service life ( in watts)? What is the loudest component of your drivetrain? If you were to do it on a diffrent frame would you stretch the frame more or change the headtube angle? Is it stable at speed?
First off congrats! Secondly, thanks for testing the limits of that banebot, what would you say is the practical limit on these things for a 3000km service life ( in watts)? What is the loudest component of your drivetrain? If you were to do it on a diffrent frame would you stretch the frame more or change the headtube angle? Is it stable at speed?
AussieJester
1 TW
Timma2500 said:It'd be even better with the cruiser beside it
That would be in front of it Paul... Cruiser in front of the Norco
Great to hear the Throttlizer and HV140 are playing nicely looking forward to
setting up the HV160 and throtlizer myself, Recumpence is pulling 400amps
with his HV160/8150 setup thats insane
140amp and the cruiser lights upi think ill be limiting things to 160-170amp i bought the 200amp version of the throtlizer
HiGHSiDE Hyena said:
hehehe... just to be sure he is up there i agree a second 8150 is in order, can't be
left short want to be using ALL of the allowed 200watt limit Paul
:lol: KiM
hehehehehe,
not sure i'll compete with that Paul, im only going direct drive, no gears on the motor side yet so my top speed should be between 20-25mph, that will increase slightly once i get the sram in but tbh i dont need more than 30 tops for where i ride, im hoping my biggest achievment will be full suss without impedement.
good to hear you back me too with the belt tooth count tho mate.
Really looking forward to some trail vid when you get chance, theres some really nice bikes coming through now and yours is right up there, now start production!!!!
D
not sure i'll compete with that Paul, im only going direct drive, no gears on the motor side yet so my top speed should be between 20-25mph, that will increase slightly once i get the sram in but tbh i dont need more than 30 tops for where i ride, im hoping my biggest achievment will be full suss without impedement.
good to hear you back me too with the belt tooth count tho mate.
Really looking forward to some trail vid when you get chance, theres some really nice bikes coming through now and yours is right up there, now start production!!!!
D
Timma2500
1 kW
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Whiplash
1 MW
- Joined
- May 10, 2010
- Messages
- 2,906
Unbelievable build my friend! I can't wait to see it off road! NO HELMET CAMS THOUGH! they don't show anything but the terrain, I want to see the bike! As a fellow fabricator and TIG welder, DAM NICE JOB! I am really re thinking my hub motor on my current build now!
AussieJester
1 TW
Whiplash said:
Give yourself to the Dark Side. It is the only way you can get true performance. Yes, your thoughts betray you. Your feelings for the frock are strong, but you underestimate the power of the darkside.
Paul...in case you haven't been reading the forums myself and Matt.P both have running bikes, is the Norco
in action? We can arrange a day for a ride when your free, once this shit storm we are having now blows out.
You have my contact info anywayz Paul lemme know what time is best for you and i'll contact Matt.P and see when he is free also, i can be avaialble any day/time i have no other commitments, just need to find a suitable time that is
good for you and Matt
Chat soonz
KiM
Ypedal
100 TW
Should i ship you guys a tow strap for the group ride ? :lol:
AussieJester
1 TW
Ypedal said:
Yes one will do nicely...to tow Matt .P up the hills as he will have his frock motored MTB...
thanks for the foresight buddy, being a non-frock owner i would have missed the need for
the tow rope, Matt will be most appreciative..
:lol: Didn't quite go as well as you thought it would did it YPedal MaN
Spoke to Matt about the ride too Paul, he has 4 months leave/holidays so is quite flexible as to when he
will be avaialble....well haha more so than when hes working anywayz...Firemen have wonderful hours.
KiM
Timma2500
1 kW
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Timma2500
1 kW
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AussieJester
1 TW
Glad to hear your getting the gearbox issues sorted, i posted up some data on my new HV160 on my thread Paul LoL peaking at 280amp 10 000watts SOK buddy, Matt.P will have his frock motored bike he can keepz you company puttering about :lol:
Look forward to the ride anywayz mate, it will be a leisurely pace, prolly venture up to the Bakery in Kalamunda ir the Kala Pub depending time of day? i'll be towing the wheelchair so be paths 99% of the way as long as your good to go on some hills you will have no probs mate...unless i spot some Lycras of course ...then ill be OFF in pursuit hahaa
KiM
p.s sok boyz the cruiser has the mojo to tow both you and Matt.P....and my wheelchair
SOK buddy, Matt.P will have his frock motored bike he can keepz you company puttering about :lol: Look forward to the ride anywayz mate, it will be a leisurely pace, prolly venture up to the Bakery in Kalamunda ir the Kala Pub depending time of day? i'll be towing the wheelchair so be paths 99% of the way as long as your good to go on some hills you will have no probs mate...unless i spot some Lycras of course ...then ill be OFF in pursuit hahaa
KiM
p.s sok boyz
the cruiser has the mojo to tow both you and Matt.P....and my wheelchair
Timma2500
1 kW
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mwkeefer
1 MW
Tim,
Thanks!
#1.) The idea of a tow strap for a bike.... no BS, I've added one to my trunk kit on all my electrics! Great freaking idea, for the odd moment when a normal bike breaks down and you can tow then to safety or in our case (yours and mine both I'm saddened to say) when our electrics break down a mate can tow us home..
#2.) Since all my rides are either 15 or 18S now (and compatible within the entire range)... I added to one of my straps a length of turnigy 12AWG and a connection adapter kit (plugs for everything from 4mm bannana to Deans to Andersons)... now when I am out riding if one of my friends is along, I can add to their power in most cases while they tow me (still hasn't happened, but I figure with standards like the HV... this would be useful for you guys too)
#3.) I have 2 of the bane bot boxes here now... it looked so much easier on your thread Seriously though I had them do a special shaft on mine to come out for the input to accept a 3/8" HTD pulley from mcMaster so between the astro and the bane I do a 2:1... haven't gotten much further but these are neat little boxes!
Hope you have everything sorted and running soon, I'm going to be doing much lower power (maybe 50A limit) so the boxes should hold up fine (I guesstimate about 1/2 the rated load maximum)... my weak link will likely be an SA3 rear
-Mike
Thanks!
#1.) The idea of a tow strap for a bike.... no BS, I've added one to my trunk kit on all my electrics! Great freaking idea, for the odd moment when a normal bike breaks down and you can tow then to safety or in our case (yours and mine both I'm saddened to say) when our electrics break down a mate can tow us home..
#2.) Since all my rides are either 15 or 18S now (and compatible within the entire range)... I added to one of my straps a length of turnigy 12AWG and a connection adapter kit (plugs for everything from 4mm bannana to Deans to Andersons)... now when I am out riding if one of my friends is along, I can add to their power in most cases while they tow me (still hasn't happened, but I figure with standards like the HV... this would be useful for you guys too)
#3.) I have 2 of the bane bot boxes here now... it looked so much easier on your thread
Seriously though I had them do a special shaft on mine to come out for the input to accept a 3/8" HTD pulley from mcMaster so between the astro and the bane I do a 2:1... haven't gotten much further but these are neat little boxes!Hope you have everything sorted and running soon, I'm going to be doing much lower power (maybe 50A limit) so the boxes should hold up fine (I guesstimate about 1/2 the rated load maximum)... my weak link will likely be an SA3 rear
-Mike
I'm very bummed to hear about the 8150 Banebot combo. That being said, I'm very very happy to see the report. So often we hear about these amazing ideas, then never hear back. Since just about all of our RC ideas are way off the map, trial and error is the most reliable way to getting to success.
So my hat's off to you for finding out how far that little planetary could go, excellent work! Bravo!
Katou
So my hat's off to you for finding out how far that little planetary could go, excellent work! Bravo!
Katou
AussieJester
1 TW
mwkeefer said:
YPedal MaN...^^ more evidence of the trust in reliabilty you frock motor bois have .."eh"
Rode thecrusier to Kalamunda Cycles yesterday haha 12km round trip used 12ah of the pack
was freakin fuuuun...
KiM
p.s crusier is now chain drive Paul...i'll have you on acceleration AND top end now...Matt.P moivated me, he posted his top speed was 48 clicks .... mine was 50 can't have no frock that close... you will need another 10 on your top effort to catch me now buddy
:lol: Will need another motor to punch it over the 100 click mark but maaaan the speed it gets there is astonishing... haha till the esc decides its had enough i guess ..has been worth it
Metallover
10 kW
Tim, did you ever figure out of the gears are hardened or not? I just scored an identical gearbox for $50.
mwkeefer
1 MW
According to Bane Bot techs, they are not hardened gears - in that they are "tool hardned" cut from hardened gear stock? If that makes sense to one of you fabricators, it's verbatim what info I was given by the techs... So hardening could be a solution for gear stripping but as I recall tims actually popped out it's retaining clip on the axle, these are normally intended to be bolted right to the end of a motor with a proper pinion gear attached not be belt or chain driven on the input... that likely added a bit of backlash which allowed his retaining clip to pop out... This is when any of the internal damage he may have would have occoured and so that is the weak link to be solved at the moment (imho).
I do have 2 of the units here now but I am planning much milder builds around them so I don't anticipate any issues like Tim had, one will be "properly" mated motor with 6mm axle and pinion from their stock P80 series motors (I think that's what it was, ordered and received so long ago now...)
Regards,
Mike
I do have 2 of the units here now but I am planning much milder builds around them so I don't anticipate any issues like Tim had, one will be "properly" mated motor with 6mm axle and pinion from their stock P80 series motors (I think that's what it was, ordered and received so long ago now...)
Regards,
Mike
I know a bit about the steel biz, and tool hardened makes no sense. As you surmised, it is either:
a) hardened
b) made of tool steel
but it's impossible to know what they mean. In addition, the fact that they screwed up the specification makes you doubt it's veracity.
Is it hardened? Is it tool steel? Is it made from melted down tools? Is it steel that is easily tooled? Who knows.
The only way to really settle this is what an earlier member suggested: can you scratch them with other metal tools.
Try a nail, then try a screwdriver bit, then try a knife, then a hacksaw, lastly a file.
I'd say it was hardened if it resisted everything up to a kitchen knife, which is generally around 55 Rockwell or so. Of course, you could look up the specs on a file if that's what it took, but it's unlikely due to brittleness at higher hardness.
Katou
a) hardened
b) made of tool steel
but it's impossible to know what they mean. In addition, the fact that they screwed up the specification makes you doubt it's veracity.
Is it hardened? Is it tool steel? Is it made from melted down tools? Is it steel that is easily tooled? Who knows.
The only way to really settle this is what an earlier member suggested: can you scratch them with other metal tools.
Try a nail, then try a screwdriver bit, then try a knife, then a hacksaw, lastly a file.
I'd say it was hardened if it resisted everything up to a kitchen knife, which is generally around 55 Rockwell or so. Of course, you could look up the specs on a file if that's what it took, but it's unlikely due to brittleness at higher hardness.
Katou
mwkeefer
1 MW
I just checked back on my logs of the call... they are cut from bar gear stock which is of tool steel.
That was the exact way the engineer put it but to be honest, I hadn't expected a response like that to a hardened question... either yes and a grade / method or no.
-Mike
That was the exact way the engineer put it but to be honest, I hadn't expected a response like that to a hardened question... either yes and a grade / method or no.
-Mike
Whiplash
1 MW
- Joined
- May 10, 2010
- Messages
- 2,906
You could send them out and get them cryoed, and then hardened. This is what we used to to do gear drives in drag cars sometimes when we had problems. Also if you do that after heat treat, get them DLC coated and they will need little to NO lube believe it or not. AMAZING stuff for sure!
That makes sense. It also makes sense as to why the engineer answered as they did. Good job keeping such detailed notes. Then again, somehow, I'm not too surprised. :wink:
If he (she?) had answered with a "no" you WOULD know that they weren't the Best of the Best, but you also would NOT know that the gears were in fact, made out of some pretty good stuff. Tool steel is very hard, very tough, and a MAJOR step up from standard mild steel.
So far as I know, tool steels by definition are not hardenable - on purpose. It would not do to have your lathe cutting bit heat up, get hard, then crack off ('cause it got hard and brittle). Hardenability is actually a major pain in the ass. Mild steel is a MORE PURE alloy than is hardenable steel (watch the knifemakers jump on me now)
. For most purposes, carbon, which allows hardenability, is a CONTAMINANT.
Work with some bed rails (high carbon steel) on a welding project, you'll see right smart what I mean. Weld hardens, weld cracks off with a Ping! noise. Drag-ola.
Katou
If he (she?) had answered with a "no" you WOULD know that they weren't the Best of the Best, but you also would NOT know that the gears were in fact, made out of some pretty good stuff. Tool steel is very hard, very tough, and a MAJOR step up from standard mild steel.
So far as I know, tool steels by definition are not hardenable - on purpose. It would not do to have your lathe cutting bit heat up, get hard, then crack off ('cause it got hard and brittle). Hardenability is actually a major pain in the ass. Mild steel is a MORE PURE alloy than is hardenable steel (watch the knifemakers jump on me now)
. For most purposes, carbon, which allows hardenability, is a CONTAMINANT. Work with some bed rails (high carbon steel) on a welding project, you'll see right smart what I mean. Weld hardens, weld cracks off with a Ping! noise. Drag-ola.
Katou
