Norco Empire 8150 build (page 20 pic heavy)

Hi guys, an old style lathe cutting tool is made from what is called High Speed Steel (HSS) and is already through hardened, if it wasn't, it wouldn't last very long as a cutting tool. Try the file test to verify.
Tool steels are very tough, resisting breakage. They can be case hardened by heating with an oxy torch and quenching, thus making it more wear resistant. Mild steels can be slightly case hardened by using a carburising oxy flame (acetylene rich) and quenching.

Cheers,
GT
 
Cooooooooeeeeeeeeeee.... Timmas lost....again.... in the south west me thinks
prolly stumbled upon one of the many wild & ripe 'magic mushroom' spots
down their, pitched tent and forgotten about all of us :: sigh :: Come home
soon Timma :mrgreen: :p :lol:

KiM

p.s the A.J likes his shroooms don't be stingy now mate :mrgreen:
 
awesome build, bike is nice and clean,

i just got three questions: where did you get the gears, what reduction is it to the cranks, and have you found a strong enough gear? im looking for some gears for my own build, but having some trouble finding ones that will work, best i can find are going to cost me around 500 bucks.
 
I can attest to the durability of #25 chain (as well as very cheap replacement parts). Just make sure you use the heavy-duty #25 chain. It can take 50% more torque than the thinner stuff.

Matt
 
Timma2500 said:
recumpence said:
I can attest to the durability of #25 chain (as well as very cheap replacement parts).
Yes i remembered you saying on here somewhere that you'd found it to be quite strong Matt, I've never heard you talk of #25 chain failures or anyone else that i can think of if using HD chain. I considered using #35 chain on the 2nd chain stage but will give the #25 a go first.


I just ordered one of those new 8600w CA120-70 150kvTurnigy outrunners for a slick tyred single speed setup... :mrgreen:
I wonder if it'd push 66mph? :wink:


Paul :D


Whoooow! That's cool :mrgreen: That motor is so damn sexy, nice black color! :)
 
Still way under the power putput of my rewound Turnigy Paul don't get ya hopes up beating me just yet buddy PLUS mines hooked to a 2 speed hehehee...now we both need controllers :-S

Got yet another email from another of their tech support guys at Caslte this morning-->

Dear Kim,

We did receive your controller and it was put into our system 8/17/10.
The main thing is that we do not have any of these controllers in stock
and have a little bit of a wait time until we can fill your order and we
will swap that out for a new one. It looks like we are going to have a
wait time of about 3-4weeks until we have some of those coming to stock.
So as soon as we can we will fill and ship your order.

--
Sincerely,

Charles Chase
Castle Creations
Repair Department
(913)-390-6939 Ext.2



The good news, at least...i get a new HV160 for 135 bucks but its still Going to be a loooong wait still be fore either of my bikes rolls under its own steam again :: sigh ::

KiM
 
Timma2500 said:
recumpence said:
I can attest to the durability of #25 chain (as well as very cheap replacement parts).
Yes i remembered you saying on here somewhere that you'd found it to be quite strong Matt, I've never heard you talk of #25 chain failures or anyone else that i can think of if using HD chain. I considered using #35 chain on the 2nd chain stage but will give the #25 a go first.

Paul :D

#219 is the chain to run my friend. It's like #35, but with a much shorter pitch, allowing a sprocket to get a lot of teeth in a smaller space. Enables greater reduction capability in a single stage for a given sprocket space limitation. Insanely strong too! Handles 50+hp easily.
 
Call Tony at Azusa engineering. http://www.azusaeng.com/

They stock pretty much any sprocket blank except the exact ones you actually need :lol: They can get pretty close though and can usually find a compromise. It mainly has to do with how their machines are set up. You'll probably have to get custom and do your own bore and bolt circles. As far as I know, they can do from 20T up in #219 but they all are a .998" bore. I think they'd make anything for the right price but if you stick with stock cut sprockets and modify the centers yourself, it's a lot cheaper! It's the best supplier I've found and Tony seems like a very nice guy.

Also, RK makes some sweet o-ring #219 chain. You have to buy a special tool to work with it because there aren't master links but it's neat stuff.

Your build is flat out inspiring. I'd love to come down there and ride with you guys once I build something to ride that will keep up and be worthy of the company! If there's anything I can do to help, let me know!
 
Timma2500 said:
I'm designing both a hardtail and single pivot suspension frames at the moment to go into production before the end of year. The frames will be modular in the rear end allowing the user to be able to swap between using a frock motor, cyclone motor or rc reduction drive. I was hoping to use these gearboxs as part of the rc reduction option but i just couldn't trust them to survive esp with larger motors.



Paul :D


Paul, if you need any FEA, let me know. I need a CAD model, loads, and a material spec, and if we stay linear, it's easy from there.

Or you could just start out lightweight, and build and test 20 prototypes, adding material until they stop breaking...
 
Your skills are way beyond me, great work! FEA = Finite Element Analysis? something to do with stress analysis using a computer I seem to remember (don't know how to do it though). Allows you to make the weak-ish parts stronger, and the too-strong parts lighter.
 
Yes, a pretty standard engineering tool these days.


Some of the CAD systems throw a basic version in for free.

http://www.designworldonline.com/ArticleDetails.aspx?id=3611

mar-fea-1.jpg
 
Hi all!
I followed this build for a while and i must say that i am really impressed!! Very good work Timma! I am also working on a middle motor mtb with about similar power and i am trying to find a gearing solution in the backwheel that can withstand this power... Normal cassette spokets got damaged when i unintentionally changed gears under load and now i a trying SRAM hubgears but i don´t think that it will survive long term "abuse". Do you guys have a solution for that? Do you still drive with normal cassette gearing timma?
Peter
 
Gear your pedal chain up to match a reduced motor speed before going to your transmission, then reduce the overall gearing at the wheel. This will speed up your transmission and feed it with less torque. Gets a little tricky though :D

Timma,

I can't wait to see what you come up with. I looked at those Anaheim boxes pretty thoroughly. They should handle the torque but with the type of hardened gears necessary to do so in such a small size, they usually don't handle shock loading very well. I'm going to sound like a broken record here but some kind of slipper clutch would really make things live longer.
 
PowerPedro said:
Do you guys have a solution for that? Do you still drive with normal cassette gearing timma?

IMG_5612.jpg
^pic i took of Timmas bike when he dropped by..

I'n guessing Timma is back down south so won't be able to replay for awhile so ...yes
he does use the bikes standard cassette gearing on the bike.

Recumpence has slipper clutches now Timma , Matts modifying store bought item, i think they are ~100 bucks
might want to lookz into them also ?

KiM
 
Shame the battle bot reduction gizzmo just aint up to it. is such a simple neat & compact solution...not to worry i am sure you will come up with some thing neat and compact that fits inside the frame... need to catch up when you in town next and have a few hours to spare for for a ride buddy! You up to anything tomorrow? Need to get up before i breaks it again hahaha....

KiM
 
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