Nucular electronics - complete kit for ev!

[csc]

Almost a year now with the 2wd setup. Both controllers simply inside of the rear (closed, but made of aluminium) battery box with a 120mm 12v fan on top of them and "voilà" : no potting needed here

About to start a 600km trip in the french mountains, with girlfriend driving, me on the rear battery box and a 60 kilos trailer. Absolutely confident, a year using that stuff showed we'll not be limited by the heat (2wd helps)

Congrats Vasiliy

 

[ElectricGod]

cut that crap connector
for hall use something waterproof.

https://www.ebay.de/itm/New-M14-IP68-Assembled-Waterproof-7-Pin-Electrical-Cable-Connector-Plug-Socket/112108145573?hash=item1a1a2a8ba5:g:32oAAOSw9NdXvmKU

Hey look something we can agree on! I've been using these exact connectors for years for halls and controller signals, light connections, connections at the handle bars and so on.

I have 2 Nucular 12 fets and they both got upgraded to proper IP68 connectors...only thing needed for these controllers IMHO.

 

[csc]

Or go for vasiliy's super tiny waterproof connector. Surprisingly, it's stronger than the "adapttoish" one that Merlin shows above. I can't count the number of times when I had to resolder the adaptto connectors just because the wires arent just locked. Vibrations + manipulations was too much for the m14 stuff IMO

 

[eee291]

Do you mean Julet connectors?

 

[csc]

Exactly

 

[Merlin]

M14 are not adaptto stuff.they have just used. Of course dont use a 6Pin connector when you need halls and temp ;D
cant imagine what i could do that they fail.

Higo/juliet are also pretty cool. the threaded version is also great for halls. But i never found them for a "acceptable" price yet.

maybe vasiliy get a better deal since he would buy way more then a single diy guy like me.

would be a dream if all display connectors have ready to plug juliet connectors with opponent side wire in 1m length. *dreams are allowed*

 

[eee291]

The issue for me isn't price but finding the right type of cable.

Especially for halls I'd like a 5Pin female/male pair that isn't fused with throttle wires or some stupid crap.

Then I could drill a hole in the case and have just a cable for halls, would make my setup look so much better.

 

[Merlin]

5pin? no temp sensor?

cant follow what type of wires do you mean?!...

 

[eee291]

Both my QS 3k and MXUS 3K that I currently use don't have temp sensors, and I've never had a motor with a temp sensor.

 

[Merlin]

thats strange....mxus v3 never saw one without temp sensor. i think they have two for the 2 sets of halls.
qs should also have ...how old are your motors? some years ago yes we needed to install them by yourself this .2cent sucker.

but a hub without temp sensor is dealing with the devil. outside case can have 65°c and inside can be 180°c (on a hill climb)
makes even more fun pushing all time full power without thinking about temps (power regulated by controller)

 

[cheeko]

Hey !
just received my nucular 12f, thanks Vasilisk !

here's what you get :

note that there's no male 2.8mm 6p molex connector for the hall sensor wiring, you might want to stock some in order to save some time.

other than that, it's time to upgrade my q76r !

cut that crap connector
for hall use something waterproof.

https://www.ebay.de/itm/New-M14-IP68-Assembled-Waterproof-7-Pin-Electrical-Cable-Connector-Plug-Socket/112108145573?hash=item1a1a2a8ba5:g:32oAAOSw9NdXvmKU


and please make pics and videos from your 76 upgrade =)

Thanks for the picture, Im already using that connector for my hall thanks for the picture hop cable to the screen will fit my bike i have my controller at back of bike.


Will the power be effected if the motor cables are longer?

 

[cheeko]

Both my QS 3k and MXUS 3K that I currently use don't have temp sensors, and I've never had a motor with a temp sensor.

Mine definitely has temp sensor its Mxus 3k

 

[ElectricGod]

QS-205 with temp sensor. Admittedly this isn't a bike hub, but whatever...

 

[ElectricGod]

Do you mean Julet connectors?

I don't know much about juliet connectors and haven't looked up any ratings. I do have several of them and the pins are super thin. I bet .25 amps is about all they can handle. That's enough for halls or throttle, but for anything that needs even a tiny bit of current they won't do the job. I've had a few of these connectors with crunched over pins and a few more that would not make up contact reliably.

These pins however can handle 5 amps or so. I use them for lighting, small signals, etc and they do well. Not once have I had a connector problem. The only issue I've ever had is using Chinese lead free solder. As it cools, it gets brittle so the solder joint breaks apart and doesn't hold. Just use decent solder and that's not a problem.

Every joint has a silicon o-ring. Where the wires go into the connector, there's a silicon grommet. Sometimes the grommet is too large for the OD of your wire. I wrap a few layers of electrical tape around the wire to increase the diameter a little to make a seal. These things never fail to deliver and they are $4-8 each on ebay. I've used something like 100 of them on various EV's for me and for custom stuff I've done for others.

 

[serious_sam]

I'm building a new bike and I have a Nucular 12F on order. If I use an external precharge circuit that charges up the 12F caps over say 1 second (to 84V), will it cause any problems (for example, unpredictable start-up for the microcontroller) ? Thanks.

 

[VasiliSk]

no, it's fine

 

[ltu]

hello im interest for 6f connector for a qs hub motor,have some troumble preorde on the webside

 

[ElectricGod]

I'm building a new bike and I have a Nucular 12F on order. If I use an external precharge circuit that charges up the 12F caps over say 1 second (to 84V), will it cause any problems (for example, unpredictable start-up for the microcontroller) ? Thanks.

I've been using 1K 10 watt resistors for precharging. It takes about a second or so to charge and is slow enough to never create a spark.

 

[serious_sam]

Thanks Vasily and ElectricGod.

ElectricGod, just for my understanding, I calculate 1kOhm into 1000uF (my estimated capacitance of the controller) , gives a time constant T of 1 second. So 99% charge will be reached at 5T = 5 seconds. You advise that it will take only 1 second to charge, so is there something that I am missing? Thanks again.

 

[VasiliSk]

12F have ~2000uf
1k a bit slow but safe

 

[ElectricGod]

Thanks Vasily and ElectricGod.

ElectricGod, just for my understanding, I calculate 1kOhm into 1000uF (my estimated capacitance of the controller) , gives a time constant T of 1 second. So 99% charge will be reached at 5T = 5 seconds. You advise that it will take only 1 second to charge, so is there something that I am missing? Thanks again.

You don't need to wait to 100% charged...70-80% is not going make a spark worth worrying about. If you go from precharge to connected up in less than a second, I'd be suprised. More than likely you are under precharge for several seconds. 1K has yet to be too slow for me.

I'm willing to buy all sorts of expensive things, but when something super common and cheap works well...I'm all for it! A 10w 1K resistor is pretty darn common, reliable and super cheap.

 

[serious_sam]

Are many people charging through the controller or straight through the BMS, Is there any benefit charging through controller if you have BMS Fitted.

Cheers

I'd like to know the answer to this question too. I don't understand the purpose of charging through the motor/controller. Is it so an unregulated power supply can be regulated via the motor inductance and the controller FETs to charge the battery? i.e. The charge rate and cut-off point is controlled by the motor controller?

 

[madin88]

I'm building a new bike and I have a Nucular 12F on order. If I use an external precharge circuit that charges up the 12F caps over say 1 second (to 84V), will it cause any problems (for example, unpredictable start-up for the microcontroller) ? Thanks.

I've been using 1K 10 watt resistors for precharging. It takes about a second or so to charge and is slow enough to never create a spark.

EG you should stick to the facts. If he would use 1k resistor the caps will have reached just around 40% battery voltage after one second.
1s = 0.5tau assuming 2000µF and even if he would wait 2 or 3s there would be still a big spark because the caps in this controller have very low internal resistance :wink:

I would use something in the range of 50-100Ohm, and if someone is looking for an integrated and simple solution the Jeti antispark bullet connectors in 5.5mm or 8mm would be my choice, but don't use XT90s beacuse the precharge resistor cannot handle this load.

I'd like to know the answer to this question too. I don't understand the purpose of charging through the motor/controller. Is it so an unregulated power supply can be regulated via the motor inductance and the controller FETs to charge the battery? i.e. The charge rate and cut-off point is controlled by the motor controller?

Yes exactly. The Controller works like a step up converter by using the motor as coil.
One big advantage of doing so is that you can use Server PSU's which have quite high power density, and as you mentioned the charge current + cut off voltage can be adjusted via controller.

 

[serious_sam]

I'd like to know the answer to this question too. I don't understand the purpose of charging through the motor/controller. Is it so an unregulated power supply can be regulated via the motor inductance and the controller FETs to charge the battery? i.e. The charge rate and cut-off point is controlled by the motor controller?

Yes exactly. The Controller works like a step up converter by using the motor as coil.
One big advantage of doing so is that you can use Server PSU's which have quite high power density, and as you mentioned the charge current + cut off voltage can be adjusted via controller.

Thanks for the explanation. That makes sense.

 

[Joachim]

12F controller for my sur-ron arived today and runs already smooth.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doxrTKvxjuA