Nucular electronics - complete kit for ev!

So I finally got around to flashing my controller and display with the latest firmware.
After flashing, resetting to defaults and loading back my config, I also did a couple of auto tunes on the motor.
Now the motor runs really rough when starting. If I roll on the throttle slowly it will smooth out, but if I pin the throttle fast it will jerk violently before stalling and stopping.
It seems like it's having trouble with the initial square wave part of turning the motor. I tried turning off square wave boost, adjusting boost current, played with acceleration limits and nothing seems to help.

Any advise on what I can play with to smooth out the initial acceleration and stop it stalling?

Cheers
 
That is why I’m afraid to update my controller. It’s so bad ass I can’t think of anything more I could need from it……except still wanting that BMS.

Tom
 
Running 0.8.2 firmware on my dual 12Fs and couldn't be happier. Can still turn off MTPA by putting flux linkage to zero.
0.8.2 has none of the strange setup or motor auto-setup anomalies
Couldn't be happier with my 12Fs in parallel on 0.8.2

Also have a spare 6F and 24F in the box and plan on running 0.8.2 if I put either of them to use in the near future.
Hopefully our Nucular boys can make a geographical change and develop firmwares and hardware further and better.
For the time being I'm comfortable and more than happy with 0.8.2

Unfortunately if your hardware (controller) was built stock with 0.8.3 or 0.8.5... you cannot downgrade past that stock firmware
Rock on Nucular team!!! :bigthumb:
 
I too have firmware v.0.8.2, and I'm happy with it. I had some difficulty doing the self-learning of the engine, but it was quickly sorted out. I did step-by-step learning and then machine learning. The majority of the defects came from a misunderstanding of the operation on my part.
You should know that for this version some of the personalized settings that you had made are to be redone. In particular the accelerator curve that I had customized in a logarithmic way is now exponential. When I left the logarithmic curve the starting power was much too strong and could even be dangerous. It is also possible that the voltage range set on your accelerator or your brake must be bad. The easiest way is to go to the Status Flag menu to find out what is faulty. Overvoltage, overload Current ....
This firmware release helps to get the most out of the controller and further improve its capabilities. It's a little gem!
 
Is it possible that the display misread the voltage?

I finished charging my 20s battery and after twisting the throttle for a second when the motor is off the ground, the voltage on the display went up to 103v for 1 second and then the motor got cutoff, i released and twisted the throttle again and secondly got quick 103v + motor cutoff.

My battery has some issues charging only up to 82-83v. But it never went over 84.5v even momentarily
 
Just by seeing your username I can imagine you're really unlucky with controllers 🤪
I have never seen this on my Nucular 24F.
Have you tried disabling the FW?
 
Lh100Error10 said:
Is it possible that the display misread the voltage?

I finished charging my 20s battery and after twisting the throttle for a second when the motor is off the ground, the voltage on the display went up to 103v for 1 second and then the motor got cutoff, i released and twisted the throttle again and secondly got quick 103v + motor cutoff.

My battery has some issues charging only up to 82-83v. But it never went over 84.5v even momentarily
Click to expand...

I dont know about the 103v but My 20S pack usually Reads 1V higher then the pack as i never charge higher then 83v, I have mentioned this since first getting the 12F but its no biggy as i shoud be home if my packs near cut off LOL
 
"For cold weather, the BMS provides for heating the battery."

Can someone explain how this is done? It sounds almost too good to be true. So any standard cells would be able to heat themselves without any kind of heater installed?
 
PITMIX said:
It's a little gem!
Click to expand...

I agree 2000% these controllers and anything Nucular are little gems! I keep buying used controllers, just to have them :lol:
I simply love their system, hardware and software. For me, it really doesn't get any better.
 
I don't know about the 103v but my 20S pack usually reads 1V higher than the pack because I never charge higher than 83v I mentioned that since I got the 12F but that's okay because i should be home if my packs are almost cut LOL
Click to expand...

Yes there is a difference between the LCD of the controller and the battery voltage.
It doesn't matter because the controller is usually optimistic of 1V no more.
On the other hand, your problem of 103 V displayed is perhaps caused by the EMF of the motor in regeneration or during violent slowdowns after having operated in excessive strong Field weakening.
Disable the engine brake and the FW 0A (100% throttle max ) and try again.
Your BMS may also be the cause of this problem. If it sends an induced current when it goes into safety during regeneration.
 
Thanks for the suggestions guy's.
I tried playing around with the throttle curve and voltage limits but that didn't help. I should also add that the problem is more pronounced when using higher power modes.

I run some diagnostics and got the following results:
View attachment DSC_7158.JPG
View attachment DSC_7159.JPG

This indicates to me that the problem might be tuning related still, but I've played with many of the settings I know about without success. I'm wondering if it's related to one of the more advanced settings I don't know much about like the following from here:
http://nucularelectronics.wikidot.com/en:controller-setup#toc25
Integration threshold - analogue of the halls angles for the sensorless control mode.
Interpolate halls - smooth change of the hall angle based on speed. Used for FOC mode
Interpolation start - the motor is always started from a discrete angle, if digital halls are used. After the specified speed, the angle starts to change smoothly.
Click to expand...

The only other thing I think it could be is the hall sensor angle setup, but every time I've messed with this in the past I've ruined it completely and had to revert to a backed up config to get it working again.

Any idea's?

Cheers
 
When Nucular team will update their Cycle Analyst style display to someting more modern or at last develop BT app and module announced long time ago?
 
Andrewol said:
When Nucular team will update their Cycle Analyst style display to someting more modern or at last develop BT app and module announced long time ago?
Click to expand...

Why would we want a cycle analysis type of display? I think that would be a downgrade. The Nucular display is far more attractive and capable in my opinion. Why mess with a good thing. Their display has been in use since the beginning and is designed as part of their ecosystem to work seamlessly in sync with the controllers, uLight and eventually BMS. I do agree to some extent that Bluetooth and app for settings would be handy but might be hard to justify that much work when everything you need is already handled directly at the display. I would personally opt for the team to put their efforts elsewhere.
I for one love the display and seeing all of the telemetry real time as I ride. VESC app is cool but your phone is needed and you can't make setting adjustments from the app. It is one of the many reasons their systems are so wonderful and popular.
 
VasiliSk said:
Cowardlyduck what motor do you have?
try to reset to defaults and setup basics from scratch without import to check how it will work
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip! I have an LMX64. I think the motor is similar to a lightning rods, but not sure.

I reset to defaults and did auto tuning again from scratch. That seems to have worked and things are back to normal for the motor now. Unfortunately that means I've lost heaps of customisation I will have to figure out again. The main problem I have is I don't know how my ebrakes or power modes buttons were working. :roll:

Cheers
 
v0.8.2 necessarily asks to review the custom settings so you did the right thing, well done 👍
For the moment the only real bug that I have noticed is the logger of data on the SD card which blocks the controller. Forced to cut the circuit breaker and remove the sd card then restart for it to work again.
 
VasiliSk said:
Cowardlyduck
edit config on PC to have only ports settings and power modes, maybe advanced modes if was used
Click to expand...
Thanks for the suggestion. After I realised it's just a simple text file, instead I just went through and found the settings I needed to make it work.

I also noticed, a small blip during acceleration that I had learned to live with since the previous firmware update is now gone. Seems the need to clear motor settings and retune is a must at least on the LR motors like the LMX has.

So now my display sometimes shows a turtle icon while riding...any idea what that means?

Cheers
 
The turtle logo means that the power is reduced because your controller protects against too much use so as not to burn out. You have to go to the status flag to find out if you are overcurrent or overvoltage or overpower...
 
PITMIX said:
The turtle logo means that the power is reduced because your controller protects against too much use so as not to burn out. You have to go to the status flag to find out if you are overcurrent or overvoltage or overpower...
Click to expand...
Interesting....did it do this before, but just not show it?
In my highest mode I push 50A battery 200A phase. Is that too much for the 6fet?
It never seemed to trouble it before, and I was planning on turning it up even further once I build a new battery.

Cheers
 
I just installed ntc 10k 3950 thermistor, whenever the motor is running the temp spikes to crazy values, I guess it's some noise in the wiring.

Is it possible to have motor temp reading without the power limit when reaching tmax? Otherwise I must have sensor type set to off :oops:
 
KTY83 or KTY84 are very good !
 
PITMIX said:
KTY83 or KTY84 are very good !
Click to expand...
They are tenth of ntc's 10k resistance, so probably much less noise?

Meanwhile, is there an option to gave temp sensor enabled with no t-max limit?
 
Disconnect motor Probe.
 
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