Nucular electronics - complete kit for ev!

Jonno said:
If you want a temporary MPH fix just change your wheel circumference x 5/8.
ie: 2040mm x 5 /8 = 1275mm


Ready for test tomorrow - weather and test pilot permitting

Jonno

Yup! too easy
 
Hi, have you noticed an improvement in performance since v07.8 and v07.9 update? It will seem that the torque is larger and the small engines heat less.
 
PITMIX said:
Hi, have you noticed an improvement in performance since v07.8 and v07.9 update? It will seem that the torque is larger and the small engines heat less.

Are you saying you made no phase amp changes and your motor is now stronger and runs cooler?
That seems counter intuitive. More torque comes from more phase amps and therefore more heat.
 
It's not on my engine but that of another member of the forum.
He says his bike is running a little slower but with more torque and his engine isn't overheating now !
About me I installed my 24F on my little car. I didn't finish the transmission. I have already noticed that the engine makes much less noise than when it was running with the Chinese controller, the operation seems much more flexible too.
[youtube]447Ri9A-4wU[/youtube]
 
PITMIX said:
It's not on my engine but that of another member of the forum.
He says his bike is running a little slower but with more torque and his engine isn't overheating now !
About me I installed my 24F on my little car. I didn't finish the transmission. I have already noticed that the engine makes much less noise than when it was running with the Chinese controller, the operation seems much more flexible too.

Hard to say how much of that noise is the motor or whatever it is attached to via belt. The real proof is running the motor stand-alone on the Risun vs the Nucular controller. Maybe the phase and hall combo you were using on the Risun was incorrect? I've run across this quite a few times that a motor will run with the wrong combination. The Nucular controllers do motor discovery so it never gets it wrong. It's a possibility...

Too little info about your friends EV and it seems contradictory...
"Running slower" could mean less acceleration or lower top speed.

Less acceleration could be caused by lower phase amps which tracks with the lower motor temps.
Motor temps, if the motor was set up wrong would be higher. Maybe he never did motor discovery and now has?
More torque means more acceleration and more phase amps...not sure how that's possible and the motor running cooler.
Maybe your friend was using field weakening previously and isn't now? That would explain the lower top speed.

I'd want to see actual phase and battery amps both before and after and anything else that might have changed. I'm making assumptions based on what you post and it doesn't all make sense. Maybe something gets lost translating from French to English?

It is possible that this firmware update fixed some things in motor control. It would be nice if Vasilli weighed in on this...
 
Hi ElectricGod, no my combination of the hall sensors on the risun controller is ok on this side there is no problem.I have tried several times and when the combination is bad the noise is even more important and the reverse mode not works. It is true that on the Nuc24F video there is no transmission but it does not make noise when the engine is in acceleration. On the other hand it makes noise in engine braking. The Nuc controller 24F gives a less acute and softer sound. On a video it's not easy to tell the difference.
 
PITMIX said:
Hi ElectricGod, no my combination of the hall sensors on the risun controller is ok on this side there is no problem.I have tried several times and when the combination is bad the noise is even more important and the reverse mode not works. It is true that on the Nuc24F video there is no transmission but it does not make noise when the engine is in acceleration. On the other hand it makes noise in engine braking. The Nuc controller 24F gives a less acute and softer sound. On a video it's not easy to tell the difference.

Yes...that all makes sense due to better motor control from an FOC controller vs a low end sinusoidal controller.
 
Is it just me that have problems with the update?
I tried the newest file for the controller now. This is what it looks like on the sd card:

W1mKIg0l.jpg


When I try it on the display:

KTe12qWl.jpg


6cSMxAVl.jpg


Nothing more happens.

On the controller:

GurQKdgl.jpg


When it has finished verification:

3ZriatDl.jpg


Is my sd card not good enough or something?

Cv8X0K3l.jpg
 
My SD card is much worse than yours, it's a 2GB card that has many years. I did not have a problem.
Often faulty cards are simply unreadable.
If it did, your computer will not detect it.
 
Ok, I downloaded again. Now it worked on the controller, but not on the display. I tried the same thing again, but the same result. It just goes to the nucular start screen, nothing more seems to happen.
How it is supposed to look when the update is working?

I am supposed to push the right button at the "update?" screen, right?
 
Are you sure you don't have a false contact on the controller's power supply? I had the same problem and it was the voltage that wasn't stable.
 
I am pretty sure that is ok, I can pull 300A from the battery without problems.
But I think I just got it to work..
I did a desperate move. When the nucular screen was showing, I pushed out and in the sd card. Then I got a line in the upper part of the screen from left to right. When it was all the way to the right I pushed the right button. Then the line went from left to right again, and then I got the main screen again.
Now I don't have an "S" before the "1" in top of the screen, so I guess it is updated :roll:

For a moment I thought I might have broke it when I got the line in the top of the screen..
 
Are these available to buy? I can't seem to find any information on availability.
 
See the OP, clearly spelled out there where the project is at and how to put your name down
 
Hello, could you give me some tips for setting up my 24F configuration for my Qs 138 70H engine. I think I have problems getting power through my battery wiring. The engine gives jolts when I roll slowly. But when I accelerate very hard it works perfectly, the power is incredible! I just love it !! It is so powerful that the teeth of the drive belt jump. I must solve this problem too. I have the problem in speed 1 : whith 100A phases, accelerator 100% ; speed 2 : whith 250A phases, accelerator 125% ; and speed 3 : whith 450A phases, accelerator 150%. My battery is able to give 600A so no problem on this side.
 
I tested in speed mode and in torque + speed mode.
In Torque +speed I don't have problem on speed 1.
 
Ok thank you, I will try.
I'll keep you informed.
What is problematic in torque mode is the lack of torque at 0 rpm because my vehicle is very heavy.
 
PITMIX said:
What is problematic in torque mode is the lack of torque at 0 rpm because my vehicle is very heavy.
That comment scares me a lot.
I was just about to place my preorder for a 12F. I'm going to use this on a trials fatbike, so I absolutely need full torque at zero RPM. And I always prefer torque mode.
I've been using the Adaptto in the past and hated it because it limited the low-speed torque.
Then I had a Kelly which was OK in that regard, but it had a slight delay between the time I opened the throttle, and when the motor began to turn. I hated that too.
Can someone confirm that the Nucular will not have these problems?
 
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