Okay, so this is the current project. 72v regular controller BBS02

[n00b]

It's a big shuffling of parts between 2 bikes. Okay, so currently I have a 29er with a big triangle and 2 36v 30A BMS batteries in series in said triangle with a keyed throttle and 9c clone rear hub motor and 26-32A 48-72V 12-fet controller and a stock 29" rear-wheel Voilamart setup with a 52v triangle battery. I did have a rack for the battery but boogered the triangle one to the frame and now use the rack for the controller.
So..both these bikes are going down. I'm gonna keep the battery on big triangle bike and try to hook up to a similar controller and throttle/ignition to a BBS02.
And the other one, I'm going to build a rack..out of wood to hold 2 other 36v/30A batteries in series. It needs to be strong enough to not break if I have to hop a curb every now and then. I'm using wood and stock bike rack uprights. I won't have much problems building a rack and mounting the batteries and taking the
controller and throttle off the big triangle bike and putting it on the other one whole with a switch to a front hub motor.
What's got me worried is hooking up a controller and throttle like that to a bbs02 with the 72v battery rigup. I need to know the wiring for that, and I want to kinda know what I'm doing before I go in, and I'm going in soon.
The front wheel drive 72v conversion will be done 1st.
Any wiring diagrams/charts/pics/videos to hooking up like.. a Komodo to a Bafang motor would be appreciated. TIA.

 

[neptronix]

bbs02 controller is not rated for more than 60v and will pop on 72v.

Why not just run a big hub instead of 2 motors, ie a leafbike 1.5kw? 16lbs instead of 22lbs of motor, and higher efficiency..

Rear racks wag a lot and negatively affect the steering of the bike because they're in the worst place for weight on a bike. That's going to hurt your handling. mount these big batteries in the center of the bike if you can, even if one is sitting on the top tube.

 

[n00b]

bbs02 controller is not rated for more than 60v and will pop on 72v.

Why not just run a big hub instead of 2 motors, ie a leafbike 1.5kw? 16lbs instead of 22lbs of motor, and higher efficiency..

Rear racks wag a lot and negatively affect the steering of the bike because they're in the worst place for weight on a bike. That's going to hurt your handling. mount these big batteries in the center of the bike if you can, even if one is sitting on the top tube.

I'm not going to be using a Bafang controller at all. Going to wire a Komodo or KT controller to run the BBS02. That's the plan.
with 72v and 30 amps.
Because I want to run a BBS02 on the big triangle bike.
Also, I just saw how "Leafbike" hubs are laced, and that's not cool.
Thanks for the rack info. I might could build something in the center, that something will involve drilling through the frame tube. They need cushioning, though.
I'm doing 2 separate bikes. One is getting fronthub, 72v and probably a rackmount batteryage.
The other has a battery in the triangle and I want to install a BBS02 with a Komodo or KT controller on that.
The "fronthub" bike has cables running down the underside of the downtube. I could reroute them and do the mid drive on that,
but in my heart of hearts I think it'd be better on the other bike, though.

 

[n00b]

Well, I got dual Caomi batteries on a front Voilameart hub. Oh Boy!
It's pretty crackery. Guaranteed to attract The Man's attention cuz it looks like a couple of bombs
strapped to a bicycle whippin' down the road.

 

[n00b]

That's too much weight and bulk, man. That's ridiculous, I'm not doing that.
Also, is it me, or does that look like 2 big packs of firecrackers or dynamite and fuses?

 

[hillslayer@]

The BBSO2 doesn't hold up to high RPM like the HD been done and failed a few times.

 

[A-DamW]

One problem is the rotor magnets are surface mounted on the BBS02, limiting max rpm.
On the BBSHD, magnets are embedded in the rotor laminations, much higher max rpm.
Looks like this guy ran at 72v and found the limits of the BBS02 factory rotor:

 

[n00b]

One problem is the rotor magnets are surface mounted on the BBS02, limiting max rpm.
On the BBSHD, magnets are embedded in the rotor laminations, much higher max rpm.
Looks like this guy ran at 72v and found the limits of the BBS02 factory rotor:

75A
I'm putting on a 30-35A Komodo/KT type controller.
I hope ol' boy's hall setup is correct. It sounds right, kinda.

 

[Chalo]

Do you pedal? If so, that's a bad idea. I had to shorten the cranks on my BBS02 to 152mm so I could pedal along with its efficient RPM at 48 volts.

If you don't pedal, no problem. Enjoy your anemic moped.

 

[n00b]

Do you pedal? If so, that's a bad idea. I had to shorten the cranks on my BBS02 to 152mm so I could pedal along with its efficient RPM at 48 volts.

If you don't pedal, no problem. Enjoy your anemic moped.

Anemic moped or cross-country cruiser?
I'm rolling with 165mm Bafang masterfully crafted aluminuminum.
I'll be using 2 36v batteries in series. One around the triangle and 1 on a rack.

 

[Chalo]

Anemic moped or cross-country cruiser?
I'm rolling with 165mm Bafang masterfully crafted aluminuminum.
I'll be using 2 36v batteries in series. One around the triangle and 1 on a rack.

If your results are agreement with mine, you won't have an efficient pedal RPM and motor RPM at the same time. Pedal RPM will be too low for the motor and motor RPM will be too high for pedaling along.

 

[n00b]

If your results are agreement with mine, you won't have an efficient pedal RPM and motor RPM at the same time. Pedal RPM will be too low for the motor and motor RPM will be too high for pedaling along.

I plan on pedaling enough to get it going.
36T on front. TBD on rear. Right now probably 28 fer starters.
Derailleur action is next. Probably get a cassette hub rear and I got a big sprocket and another I can cobble up.
Right now it's gonna be run what ya brung.

 

[neptronix]

Yeah that's a major problem with these addon drives that can't be regeared

One problem is the rotor magnets are surface mounted on the BBS02, limiting max rpm.
On the BBSHD, magnets are embedded in the rotor laminations, much higher max rpm.
Looks like this guy ran at 72v and found the limits of the BBS02 factory rotor:

Maybe the answer to this is expensive, exotic glue.
This is apparently how ebikes.ca fixed the bafang G311/G310's issue where it spews out the magnets above 400 RPM wheel speed.

 

[n00b]

Yeah that's a major problem with these addon drives that can't be regeared


Maybe the answer to this is expensive, exotic glue.
This is apparently how ebikes.ca fixed the bafang G311/G310's issue where it spews out the magnets above 400 RPM wheel speed.

He was running 75A, I'm running 32.
I got it going with a 52-volter. Gonna put a 24v little battery in series now.
Thinking that may change the way the controller sees things.
Can't remember the cutoff voltage. I think it might be 62.
Trying to think up how to rig up plugs for in-series-ination.
The uh, hall diagram used in this thread works. It's quite quiet. It runs like a top.
You have to keep a second-to-second-and-a half- delay in mind, though.
I think ol' boy in the videos probably cooked his motor with Amps.
Got the glue too hot n stuff.
Did I ruin 2 BBS02 controllers to do this? Yes.
I coulda sold one, gah! Pulling it out I yanked the purple wire. Now it's butchered and the other is an empty shell.
I used the power cables for the phases. Went to buy correct colored wire, did not happen.
Home Depot or Lowe's has this uh..220 like RV plugin cable that has all the correct colors in it if you get it and split it all open and there's paper, too. It's black and like almost an inch diameter. Yeah well, nobody came to the wire that day, so I proceeded with what I had. It works real nice. Maybe I take a pic.

 

[n00b]

Yeah. I tried a couple different higher voltage combinations with the BBS02 and uh..
It went forward but would jerk hard 3x and then smooth out or jerk indefinitely like shit.
That really not smooth and reliable enough. Both were 72v, perhaps 60v could be viable?
Well, one was 88v. Sometimes I'd get a "Whooo!" from the controller and it'd shut down a second.

 

[n00b]

So now it has a 48v shark battery bolted through the top rail, a Komodo controller.
There only 1 initial bog now, and it will go a long ways, but not that fast with my fat ass.

 

[n00b]

 

[n00b]

This is just about about the final form. Gonna put a 10-speed on it and rig that up.
That's it. It'd probably be fantastic for a lighter dude.

 

[n00b]

And then I peanut buttered it. :/
Pfft. Here's what I'm gonna do after fixing the peanut butter gear:
Oh yeah! Shave the shunts! Yeah, shaved shunts=less amps=less heat.

 

[amberwolf]

If it has multiple shunts, just remove one for proportionally less current in a predictable way.

Shaving the shunts (just like soldering them) means you don't really know how much current is ever actually flowing, as you won't know the shunt resistance difference from original.


You may have options in the system settings to turn current down, that would make it even easier.

 

[hillslayer@]

You can run a 38 t chainring on that adapter 48t is probably making it to easy to bog the motor.

 

[n00b]

Yeah, the gear looks fine, but it's still FUBAR.
It ran fine and smooth, and I think I overdid it. Downhill, pushing over 200 lbs @ 30mph on a 26 incher. eh.
Got real hot. 26" is too rough for me anymore, I'm going 29" hardtail with maybe suspension seat.
BBS03 with the same throttle and controller.
Bonus if I get the stock controller off and can sell it.
Next project: 17" 29er hardtail, BBS03 with Komodo and keyed throttle, 36v and 24v 20 AH batteries in series.
It's kinda weird, like..max of 70V and I think the controller just treats it like 60V.
I'm thinking maybe them Bafangs like no phase angle better, too.