Old Currie USPD Battery Question

[pcrdude]

Hi Everyone,

First post form me...

I bought a Currie USPD conversion kit back in 1999 or so. In 2003, I rode it, parked it, and the next day I went into the hospital for a month with a MRSA infection in my femur. Now, I have a titanium hip. The bike sat parked since then until five days ago, when I pulled it out, aired up the tires (no visible dry rot), and rode about 3.5 miles. Of course, the SLA batteries are toast, so I opened the case, and checked to make sure they didn't leak. I'm waiting for replacement SLA batteries in the mail, and then I'll start riding it again (providing it still works).

Since battery technology has advanced so much in the last decade, I'm wondering if I can get a bottle type LiFePo4 24V 12Ah battery pack, attach a compatible connecter for the MAC motor, and have it work. My understanding is the controller is in the motor, but I'm worried that there is something else that will cause problems if I attempt such a "plug and play" switch to lithium.

I know the USPD is old tech, and there are lots of better options available, and if this all works, I may delve into eBiking further, but for now, I'm seeing how I can improve my current setup, without spending too much money.

Any information and/or help is appreciated!!!

Oh, here's an old pic of the ride:

 

[dnmun]

cancel the SLA and find a lifepo4 pack to use instead. it will give better power, flatter voltage, last longer if regularly charged and not over discharged.

 

[pcrdude]

Thanks for the advice!!!

Is there a place you can recommend for such a lithium pack (water bottle mount)? I think the motor is 250 watt, so I need to know what the maximum discharge amperage requirement would be. Would a 10 amp max battery be enough?

 

[mabman]

I would just stick with the SLA for the 24v system you have on order. That same system is what got me into e biking years ago and investing any money in it at this point over and above some new stock style batteries will just be less you will have to spend when you decide you want to upgrade to more modern technology. Which is generally 36v or 48v anyway.

 

[dnmun]

yep, a 36V 10-15Ah pouch pack battery would be a better deal than a bottle battery.

 

[pcrdude]

yep, a 36V 10-15Ah pouch pack battery would be a better deal than a bottle battery.

Is it possible to run the current MAC 24V motor at 36V without other modifications? Please forgive my ignorance, I don't know what works and what doesn't.

 

[dnmun]

someone who has knowledge of the controller has to answer that. i have never had one open to examine.

 

[Nineballboy]

I think running 36v will seriously cook that old controller in there. I think they were 450w by the way. Decent system for the day. Personally I wouldn't put too much cash in it, at this point. EBike technology and battery power has gone a million miles since then. Time to get into one of the newer Currie bikes like the Dash or Peak.

 

[pcrdude]

I think running 36v will seriously cook that old controller in there. I think they were 450w by the way. Decent system for the day. Personally I wouldn't put too much cash in it, at this point. EBike technology and battery power has gone a million miles since then. Time to get into one of the newer Currie bikes like the Dash or Peak.

I kinda wish you never mentioned the Dash.... Now I want one, but I don't have the $2600 to spend...



Oh well, SLA batteries should be here this week, so I'll have some fun....

I do have other (less environmentally friendly) toys....

 

[pcrdude]

Anyone know anything about the original currie uspd 2 amp charger?

I put new ub12120 batteries in the case, and charged for about 2.5 hrs. The light stayed red, but I had to go to bed so I unplugged it.

Today after work, I plugged in the charger, and the red light blinks red. Previously, it turned green when the charge was done.

Does anyone know why the red light is blinking?

 

[pcrdude]

Well, the charger flashed red on re-attachment (I wanted to make sure it was fully charged), and some old information on the interwebby suggested the charger may have been transitioning from charge, to trickle. Based on that, I put the pack on the bike, and low and behold, the motor actually worked (sort of).

I could get three seconds of throttle, then total power cutout. When releasing the throttle, and reapplying, I could get three more seconds and then it cut out. It made no difference if I waited 10 seconds from releasing the throttle, or immediately re-applied, I only got three seconds of power, then none.

I really wanted this to work (really).

Any thoughts? Maybe the batteries can't provide enough power (even though they are new)?

 

[dnmun]

do you have a voltmeter?

 

[pcrdude]

Yes I do. Should I check for 24+ volts at the output terminal?

 

[pcrdude]

Each battery is 13.5 volts, and the pack output is 27 volts as measured by voltmeter.

Thoughts?