Ontario, Canada/ Toronto - Anderson PowerPoles Connectors

[broloch]

ES'ers from Canada, where do you guys get your Anderson connectors/housings/contacts?

I am in Toronto, and have only ever shopped online from PowerWerx. Is there a place closer to home that distributes Anderson connectors?

Do you use Anderson PowerPoles?

 

[Affliction]

www.ridemore.ca can get you andersen powerpole connectors, thats where I get all mine. They can also get you Wurth Film.
They're in Ottawa. Juergen might be able to direct you to a Toronto area bike shop that has them.

 

[Lock]

...a Toronto area bike shop that has them.

Dream on... All Toronto-area "ebike" shops I know of only sell the Chineesy scooter-style ebikes... I doubt "Anderson" is part of their vocabulary. To shop local I would hook up with an industrial parts place. Forklifts maybe... Juergens a good guy though... Can't go wrong there
tks
Lock
Toronto

 

[Affliction]

Dream on... All Toronto-area "ebike" shops I know of only sell the Chineesy scooter-style ebikes... I doubt "Anderson" is part of their vocabulary. To shop local I would hook up with an industrial parts place. Forklifts maybe... Juergens a good guy though... Can't go wrong there
tks
Lock
Toronto

A large part of Juergen's business is shipping extracycles to other bike shops. He does alot of shipping to out of town customers all the time.
I'm sure he'd be more than happy to accomodate you.
Ridemore's phone # 1-613-747-7433.

 

[broloch]

http://www.ridemore.ca can get you andersen powerpole connectors, thats where I get all mine. They can also get you Wurth Film.
They're in Ottawa. Juergen might be able to direct you to a Toronto area bike shop that has them.

Wurth Film, is that something you can just spray on, or is there some other way of getting it in there, to hit all the nooks and crannys?

What other tools do I need to pull out the magnet portion? Is there an alternative to a gear puller tool?
$79.99 for a tool that I may only use once seems kinda hefty.

would this work?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoTools/PullerTools/PRD~0256187P/Timing%2BGear%2BPuller.jsp

 

[Affliction]

Wurth Film, is that something you can just spray on, or is there some other way of getting it in there, to hit all the nooks and crannys?

What other tools do I need to pull out the magnet portion? Is there an alternative to a gear puller tool?
$79.99 for a tool that I may only use once seems kinda hefty.

would this work?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoTools/PullerTools/PRD~0256187P/Timing%2BGear%2BPuller.jsp

You don't need a tool to open a chrystalite motor

am using a Crystalyte motor which is notorious for rusting and corrosion.

Just mark some cover alignment marks on the wire side and unbolt it. Lay the wheel on the floor and push and the stator will pop out on the wire side.
Keep your weight on the wheel and lift the stator with the wire side cover out. The magnets are powerfull so keep your weight on the wheel to prevent them snapping back together and catching your fingers in the process. Reinstallation is the same as removal. lean your weight on the wheel with the non wire side facing the floor and drop the stator back in. Move your hands out of the way Gently release your weight off the wheel and the stator will snap back into place. Match your alignment marks and then you're good to go
Your motor is probably pretty rusty if it's never been apart. wire brush it to get the rust off and apply a good 1/8 of a can of film to everything inside.
You'll hear it bubble just like 7UP as it penetrates all the nooks and crannies.
I like to drill a 7/64" hole mid way on the radius of one side cover for periodic reaaplication. Or if the motor is new you don't even have to open it at all!
Wurth Film will creep and eventially apply to everything. You can use hot glue or a piece of tape to cover the hole if you like.

 

[broloch]

The bike was left out in the rain for about an hour once. After that I biked home and put the bike inside a garage. I hope there isn't rust.

I have never ridden it in the rain or in the winter. I avoided any puddles on days after it rained. I hope I didn't mess it up so bad.

I am actually starting to like my bike a lot more and would like to use it often.

I will consider doing the hole trick too. So with the hole, I can just stick the nozzle in and spray? I am unfamiliar with the Wurth Film and it's applicator attachment. I will have to obtain one to better understand. But I will definitely look into using it.

 

[broloch]

Wurth Film, is that something you can just spray on, or is there some other way of getting it in there, to hit all the nooks and crannys?

What other tools do I need to pull out the magnet portion? Is there an alternative to a gear puller tool?
$79.99 for a tool that I may only use once seems kinda hefty.

would this work?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoTools/PullerTools/PRD~0256187P/Timing%2BGear%2BPuller.jsp

You don't need a tool to open a chrystalite motor

am using a Crystalyte motor which is notorious for rusting and corrosion.

Just mark some cover alignment marks on the wire side and unbolt it. Lay the wheel on the floor and push and the stator will pop out on the wire side.
Keep your weight on the wheel and lift the stator with the wire side cover out. The magnets are powerfull so keep your weight on the wheel to prevent them snapping back together and catching your fingers in the process. Reinstallation is the same as removal. lean your weight on the wheel with the non wire side facing the floor and drop the stator back in. Move your hands out of the way Gently release your weight off the wheel and the stator will snap back into place. Match your alignment marks and then you're good to go
Your motor is probably pretty rusty if it's never been apart. wire brush it to get the rust off and apply a good 1/8 of a can of film to everything inside.
You'll hear it bubble just like 7UP as it penetrates all the nooks and crannies.
I like to drill a 7/64" hole mid way on the radius of one side cover for periodic reaaplication. Or if the motor is new you don't even have to open it at all!
Wurth Film will creep and eventially apply to everything. You can use hot glue or a piece of tape to cover the hole if you like.

Yeah, I was watching the video, gotta keep the hands outta the way for sure, finger-catch ouch!

 

[SpeedEBikes]

I was an early adopter of power poles for ebike use and they are better connectors then most of the stock ebike connectors. But they have their drawbacks. They need to be kept fairly dry. And over time the springs soften and the contacts degrade. Bad crimps that deform the contacts make this worse and it is hard to do first rate crimps without the expensive crimper. I found many of my older Andersen connectors getting quite hot at 20 amps even though they are supposedly 45 amp connectors. Measuring them I was surprised to find them with resistances ranging from 10s of milliohms to 100s of milliohms.

Sometimes jiggling the connectors would help for a bit. Cleaning the contacts and rebending them and replacing the housings with one with a new spring works better. For a while. But I found that tweaked connectors go bad more readily than new ones and I wasn't crazy about how long the new ones lasted.

When the connectors start giving trouble they really should be replaced. Because they are crimped on you need to cut the old one off. With custom wiring harness at just the right length I sometimes had to replace the wires too.

Over the last couple years I've switched to using bullet connectors for RC use from HobbyKing. They come in many different flavors, some with housings and some bare. I'm using bare 5.5 mm solder on ones and put shrinkwrap over the female ones and boots made from short sections of inner tube on the males to protect from accidental shorting. If I hadn't already settled on these I think I'd go with the slightly smaller ones (4mm?) that come stock now with housings on the new Turnigy and Flightmax lipos.

They aren't quite as fast and easy to connect/disconnect as the andersons but hold together better and give a better connection. They are also cheaper and I find much faster to change or replace. The ones without housings are easily reuseable in that they can be desoldered if one wants to swap out a wire. They also accomodate a wider range of wire sizes than power poles. One modest downside is they tend to vaporize if you accidentally connect them wrong and attempt to create a short circuit. And if you don't pair them up this is easier to do. I've done this a few times now, but in each case was able to easily scrape away the slag with my multi-tool and keep using the connector. Even half blown off these connectors still work very well, although I replace them as soon as I can.

 

[SpeedEBikes]

I think water mainly gets in through the bearings. I put a little oil into my bearings and then pack a little grease on them from the outside without any disassembly and have never had a motor seize up from rust in 8 years. I ride year round in Chicago and our roads get pretty nasty with salty slop through much of the winter. I've only opened up a couple motors and neither looked bad on the inside although they looked like hell on the outside.

I haven't looked, but I imagine there must also be much higher quality bearings available somewhere with better moisture seals.

 

[Affliction]

I think water mainly gets in through the bearings. I put a little oil into my bearings and then pack a little grease on them from the outside without any disassembly and have never had a motor seize up from rust in 8 years. I ride year round in Chicago and our roads get pretty nasty with salty slop through much of the winter. I've only opened up a couple motors and neither looked bad on the inside although they looked like hell on the outside.

I haven't looked, but I imagine there must also be much higher quality bearings available somewhere with better moisture seals.

This is not entirely accurate. The bearings are all sealed and of good quality. You can grease them by poping the grease seal out with a small driver. (GENTLY!) You need to open the covers to grease them tho. Water does get in by the axle tho but it's not the bearing where it gets by.
The inner race where it meets the axle is a loose fit; the wires go by this inner race as well. Snow drips off your forks and frame and onto the hub axle and then into your motor. This is how you get a swimming pool in your motor. I seal this area with Wurth Film as well.

 

[wrobinson0413]

You can also get Anderson's through Sager as well. I bought all of mine from them.

 

[itselectric]

ES'ers from Canada, where do you guys get your Anderson connectors/housings/contacts?

I am in Toronto, and have only ever shopped online from PowerWerx. Is there a place closer to home that distributes Anderson connectors?

Do you use Anderson PowerPoles?

Broloch:

The quickest way to get your anderson connector is Radio World in Toronto:

http://radioworld.ca/product_info.php?products_id=6854

 

[SpeedEBikes]

I haven't seen Wurth film around here. I got foaming white lithium grease in an aerosol can with a skinny red straw. I just insert the straw into each side and squirt it around a bit. I figured it was blocking off the bearings but it probably helps seal up the axle/inner race junction as well. Anyway, it's just a few minute job and it's all I've done and I haven't yet (crossing my fingers) had a motor fail or get funky even though I do a lot of riding in slop.

I think water mainly gets in through the bearings. I put a little oil into my bearings and then pack a little grease on them from the outside without any disassembly and have never had a motor seize up from rust in 8 years. I ride year round in Chicago and our roads get pretty nasty with salty slop through much of the winter. I've only opened up a couple motors and neither looked bad on the inside although they looked like hell on the outside.

I haven't looked, but I imagine there must also be much higher quality bearings available somewhere with better moisture seals.

This is not entirely accurate. The bearings are all sealed and of good quality. You can grease them by poping the grease seal out with a small driver. (GENTLY!) You need to open the covers to grease them tho. Water does get in by the axle tho but it's not the bearing where it gets by.
The inner race where it meets the axle is a loose fit; the wires go by this inner race as well. Snow drips off your forks and frame and onto the hub axle and then into your motor. This is how you get a swimming pool in your motor. I seal this area with Wurth Film as well.

 

[broloch]

^^^Radioworld/Itselectric, thanks!

 

[disndat]

Rosspar is where I get my andersons.They are in pickering so I just make the drive out there and pick up what I need.They will ship to you though.Talk to Phillip-great guy knows all about ebikes.

 

[steveo]

WWW.ROSSPAR.COM

 

[El_Steak]

For Canadians, here's another cheap place to order andersons from:

http://www.durhamradio.com/anderson-powerpole-20-connector-set-ontario-canada.html

 

[Doctorbass]

For Canadians, here's another cheap place to order andersons from:

http://www.durhamradio.com/anderson-powerpole-20-connector-set-ontario-canada.html

El_Steak, I guess you live in Quebec city like me.. noh? So let me give you the best cheap place for Anderson connectors:

Crobel Electronic.. on St-sacrement blvr!

They have all them.. the 30A are 0.47$ each ( plastic cover and crimpabale connector) :wink:

Doc

 

[Rickarmitage]

I have a company that sells Anderson Power Poles at reasonable price and carry the full line of Anderson Products. They are in Toronto and also have a web site. http://www.armitronpower.com

 

[Lock]

Very cool Rick! Welcome to the Sphere
Lock
Toronto

 

[BiGH]

How about Australia guys? anyone here know where to get cheap Andersons? I'm thinking of buying a bunch from powerwerx.com, as Jaycar, altronics and RS have hugely inflated pricing.

maybe I should run a group buy?

 

[voicecoils]

How about Australia guys? anyone here know where to get cheap Andersons? I'm thinking of buying a bunch from powerwerx.com, as Jaycar, altronics and RS have hugely inflated pricing.

maybe I should run a group buy?

I've been buying from: http://www.andersonpower.com.au/store/

Very fast shipping, professional service from my experience.

If you're doing a really big order, better deals might be had elsewhere (overseas etc).

 

[BiGH]

How about Australia guys? anyone here know where to get cheap Andersons? I'm thinking of buying a bunch from powerwerx.com, as Jaycar, altronics and RS have hugely inflated pricing.

maybe I should run a group buy?

I've been buying from: http://www.andersonpower.com.au/store/

Very fast shipping, professional service from my experience.

If you're doing a really big order, better deals might be had elsewhere (overseas etc).

thanks VC, awesome but !@#$@!# the markup from the USA prices on that is horrendous. I've enquired at http://www.westmountainradio.com/PWRcrimp.htm as to what shipping is to Melbourne. andersonpower australia sells the crimper for $69.99 AUD + 10% GST + $7.23 shipping = $84.22 ... OUCH
the USA price is $39.99 ~= $43.49 AUD


edit: the TRIcrimp at Powerworks works out like this:
$39.99 USD + $13.45USD shipping = $53.44USD = $58.1832 AUD much better. and as an added bonus because the crimper weighs so much I can add a bunch of powerpoles to the order and not have it add extra shipping cost.

 

[Ypedal]

I get mine form www.rosspar.com they have a distributor in canada and US..

Not sure i'd want to do this too often but if you guys in Aus want to put in a fairly large bulk order i can re-ship it fairly cheap ( i work for a shipping company )