Opening the side covers on the 9C

[potatorage]

I've been whacking at the side covers on my 9C rear hub motors for a while now, and I've bent 2 mini screwdrivers and still can't get the damn thing open. I've also tried hammering a knife into the cover but that doesn't seem to work. I've tried hitting the axle but that just seemed to break my hall sensors- so I need to open the side covers to repair those

Is it possible to open the side covers without using a gear puller? Or should I try that next?

 

[justin_le]

Is it possible to open the side covers without using a gear puller? Or should I try that next?

A large gear puller is the surefire approach, but not something most people have in their toolkit or want to purchase to use just once for opening a motor. I've often used the following technique:

1) Remove all the screws from the wire side side cover.
2) Use an exacto or knife blade to break the seal bonding the side plate to the rotor. You don't need to pry it open any, but you do want to make sure that the adhesive bond is broken or else step 4 won't work
3) Lay the motor down on it's side with the non wire-side axle on the ground. Have a nearby support for your hands (back of a chair, wall etc.) and balance both your feet on the rim.
4) Heave down with all your weight on the rim. This should put sufficient force on the axle against the ground to push the stator right through the rotor, removing the wire-side side cover in the process.

Be curious to hear what other tricks people have used. -Justin

 

[BikeFanatic]

Here's Neils's video on how to open 9c without a puller

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=55184

 

[Punx0r]

I used two or three large screwdrivers as pry bars to gradually raise up the cover, slipping in progressively larger wood offcuts. It took a little while but came apart without drama. Mine wasn't sealed, though.

Having two large blocks on the workbench on which to rest the wheel rim is helpful.

 

[dogman dan]

You must have a really tight cover, if the tapping a knife blade into the crack won't pop the sealer.

That's the key thing, getting it started. Then you can start in with gently prying with screwdrivers or putty knives. Then eventually working the bearing up the axle one way or the other. Or do the stand on it trick.

Popping the cover seal first is a good idea even if you use a puller.

You don't need a high quality expensive puller. So if you can source a big but cheap one great. Here in swamp cooler country, the hardware stores stock cheapo pullers for the pulleys on AC fans. Harbor Freight should have a cheap puller too.

In the USA, you can "rent" pullers for free at Auto Zone or O Rileys. They want a deposit, but you get that back.

 

[Ykick]

If you do the "stand on it" trick - be sure you maintain a balanced position.

I remember somebody came here lamenting they had bent their axle by standing on the wheel/rim while it was laying at an angle one side touching the ground. Doh!

Lacking a big enough hammer I sharpened an old flat blade screwdriver (wood chisel might be a good starter too?) and tapped it in every 90 degrees and kept working around until the cover separated.

OMT - be sure to mark the cover rotational position and of course which side cover goes where.

 

[docnjoj]

I just had to open my Ebikekit 9C clone and a painters knife tapped with a hammer at the join all around then 2 flatbar prybars 180 degrees from each other in the sides of the cover and pry up simultaneously and it went fine. I have a puller someplace but can't find it.
otherDoc

 

[Jonathan in Hiram]

Tapping on the ends of the axles might help, I just opened my 9C up today and the axles were pretty tight in the bearings, so tight that getting the covers split was difficult. I used a brass hammer direct on the axle, if you don't have a brass hammer or something similar then thread the nuts on the end of the axles and tap the nuts instead.

I tried a dead blow plastic hammer first and it didn't give a solid enough smack to move the axle in the bearing, be really cautious on the end where your phase and hall wires come out since you could bork the wires very easily doing that.

Note that tapping the axles happened after I managed to get a small sharp chisel between the cover and the rotor, I was afraid to pry hard enough to move the cover over the axle because it was bending like a soft taco. A little prying with a three screwdrivers and then a few taps, a little more prying a few more taps and so on.

 

[dnmun]

invert the axle nut on the end opposite where the wires come out. you want the wide part of the axle nut pointed out, and screwed down until the flat face is flush with the end of the axle.

i use a single edge razor blade to stick in the crack to break the sealer. all the way around the perimeter so that the blade will go in all the way around.

now that the axle has the nut on the end, you can grab the wheel around the very outside where the tire is, and whack it down forcefully onto a block of wood on the sidewalk or solid concrete floor. you have to push all the way through the motion as you whack it on the board. you have to push the stator out of the hub as you do this so the magnetic field is broken and the stator comes free.

then unscrew the axle nut and slip the axle and stator outa the hub.

 

[potatorage]

I finally got the cover open. Turns out I was wedging at the wrong angle and just ended up nicking the cover instead of opening it. It took a couple drops on the floor to release the cover.

Now time to replace the phase and hall wires. What would be the optimal length of the phase wires for the motor?

 

[999zip999]

The shorter the better. Where's is your controller located. Would like to hear what people have pull thru or is it best to pull two wires for ea. Phase ?
What voltage and amps you running. They don't. live long above 3500 watts.
Plus what 9c how many turn motor ?

 

[999zip999]

Look in the ebike technical section for " the helpful 9c wire upgrade thread. By L.F.P.