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OpenSource Ampler

Hi all,

Woow, I'm surprised by what all of you have done in this forum. I'm control engineer and just bought a second hand Ampler Curt 2019 a week ago. Just to do some DIY projects. I didn't know anything about ampler before and I was just looking for a cheap ebike to start working on it.

I bought the bike with 1500 nok (150 euros). Then I really surprised how good is the ample and I felt im love with it.


The bike has some issue, it works it give assist. But red light is flashing on the button. The app doesn't work (it locks the bike, turns the light off but not on) and it does not show speed, voltage, speed, and....

I tried reseting, asked ampler to dk factory rest. Didn't work. They said I need ti purchase a new controller which will cost me 350EUR.


It seems like the controller is some how hanged or has software issues. just keep the red LED blinking evem with full battery (I rode it 40km in hilly Oslo).


I was wondering since you have opened everything on, have any ideas what could I do before making any new DIY on it.

I was considering to open the bike and disconnect battery from controller to to make it hard rest.


Do you have any ideas? And do you think I still could deploy any new controller on it?
 
The controller is cast into resin, so I think it would be hard to do a fix on this. However it would be interesting to see the insides ;)

Disconnecting the battery is easy, there is a XT connector you can unplug
 
Did u succeed?
No, not at the moment.
The Hawk has a 6A battery with NCR 18650PF (MH12210 - 2900 mAh) and with the new cells I want to get to 7A,
like with the current bikes.
I spoke to a few companies that assemble the cells (LG 18650MJ1 - 3500 mAh) but they said I would also need a new BMS.
So I think it would be better to buy the new 7A battery from Ampler.
 

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Wow, it's impressive what you guys are doing. But before I think about replacing the ESC and the main controller, I need to narrow down another problem. And I think I've come to the right place here :)
My 2020 Curt has developed a tendency to shut off while driving (lights off, engine off) and cannot be powered on or charged (power supply flashing red). The first time this happened I removed everything, disconnected and reconnected the XT60 plug and it charged and ran again. Unfortunately now after 4 weeks I have the same problem again. Could be the cold weather in Berlin combined with 4 year old cells driven almost 14.000 km. Anyway, I would rule out a faulty controller, so that leaves the BMS or defective cells, what do you think?
 
thx :)
would guess you cells are disbalaced. BMS shuts off because 1st cells are on low state during discharge - and charging process is stopped due to max SOC of other cells. So total capacity is low.
 
b) "Full Edition" - only once tested if it would fit. Wiring Harness might be little too thick. Technically its working.
- µC WEMOS D1 mini
- VESC mini 4.2
- Original Ampler Latching Switch / LED
- Light by BEC, digitally switched by WEMOS D1 mini via MOSFET. Blinking used as status feedback.
- Digital Communication µC to VESC
- Full Integration of Torque Sensor
- OLED Display as HMI

will be continued whenever the will be some free time...

View attachment 346980
Hi there, thanks for sharing these great informations!
I just got my hands on a broken ampler with a broken controller and also want to build my own controller.
For a few things i have some questions:
-how does the bms work? Currently it seems like it is integrated in the controller box (the black epoxy blob). Is that correct? How did you replace it and how is the wiring?
-is there any success story of anyone opening the controller and fixing it on a hardware level? (Mine creates a short when you plug a battery in)
-do you use the original charger? I do have one, but i simply don’t understand how to bypass the original controller blackbox, when using a diy controller

Thanks a lot for help!!
Cheers

PS oh and btw. i have tried to get into the broken controller... with somewhat of success. not in the way to be able to repair it, but maybe its interesting for someone to see whats behind the blackbox

;)
 

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Last edited:
one more reply from me: i have now started to make a complete opensource solution for a replacement controller build from vesc + esc. based on some of the posts here.
GitHub - pcace/opensourceAmpler: opensource Ampler e-Bike controller replacement

motor works, wifi works, bluetooth works, pas sensor torque sensor etc all work, and nothing exploded so far ;)
maybe its interesting for someone? or someone has some ideas how to proceed?

cheers
 
Hi there, thanks for sharing these great informations!
I just got my hands on a broken ampler with a broken controller and also want to build my own controller.
For a few things i have some questions:
-how does the bms work? Currently it seems like it is integrated in the controller box (the black epoxy blob). Is that correct? How did you replace it and how is the wiring?
-is there any success story of anyone opening the controller and fixing it on a hardware level? (Mine creates a short when you plug a battery in)
-do you use the original charger? I do have one, but i simply don’t understand how to bypass the original controller blackbox, when using a diy controller

Thanks a lot for help!!
Cheers

PS oh and btw. i have tried to get into the broken controller... with somewhat of success. not in the way to be able to repair it, but maybe its interesting for someone to see whats behind the blackbox

;)

Great Job!
How did you manage to remove the epoxy?

Hope the answers are still helpful:
- the BMS is integrated in the shrinking tube of the battery, directly at the XT60 connectors
- I just replaced the BMS by a standard 13s BMS. Be careful with the form factor, so the repalcement still fits into the bicycle tube
-> the wiring changes inbetween supplier / BMS. You have to check where to connect GND Cell1+ Cell2+ ...
- I used the original charger. Due to the fact that the BMS is integrated in the battery it was quite easy to put battery, controller and charger in parallel
 
Hi guys, impressive stuff going on here! Really love customizing and optimizing.

I’m just about to open up my 2018 Curt (belt drive, 35km/h version). Freewheel and controller was replaced in 2022 by ampler, so I can use the new app. I’ve used my Curt daily since I got it, with winter tyres in the winter, sometimes a child seat and sometimes a Thule wagon behind it. Really love it.

Lately I’ve had controller problems. It stops giving power and it says controller problem in the app. I’ve figured out that if I turn it off and on again, and then put my full weight on the pedal and quickly start pedaling it gives max power for as long as I pedal. This makes me unsure if it’s the controller or torque sensor that’s the problem. Any advice from the expertise here?

All the best from Stockholm
 
Hi guys, impressive stuff going on here! Really love customizing and optimizing.

I’m just about to open up my 2018 Curt (belt drive, 35km/h version). Freewheel and controller was replaced in 2022 by ampler, so I can use the new app. I’ve used my Curt daily since I got it, with winter tyres in the winter, sometimes a child seat and sometimes a Thule wagon behind it. Really love it.

Lately I’ve had controller problems. It stops giving power and it says controller problem in the app. I’ve figured out that if I turn it off and on again, and then put my full weight on the pedal and quickly start pedaling it gives max power for as long as I pedal. This makes me unsure if it’s the controller or torque sensor that’s the problem. Any advice from the expertise here?

All the best from Stockholm

Hello to Stockholm,

not easy to analyze w/o further measurements (best would be an oszilloscope to check if there are valid toqure and speed signals at the torque sensor).
I would advise to exchange your controller with a 100% working spare
or tho exchange the torque sensor with a 100% OK part
and to check wether the fault is generated by the controller or torque sensor.

Take care

Stephan
 
Hello to Stockholm,

not easy to analyze w/o further measurements (best would be an oszilloscope to check if there are valid toqure and speed signals at the torque sensor).
I would advise to exchange your controller with a 100% working spare
or tho exchange the torque sensor with a 100% OK part
and to check wether the fault is generated by the controller or torque sensor.

Take care

Stephan
Thanks for the reply!

Can I buy a third party controller to try with or do I need the original EUR400 one from Ampler?

All the best,
Eric
 
Thanks for the reply!

Can I buy a third party controller to try with or do I need the original EUR400 one from Ampler?

All the best,
Eric
Hi,

Does somebody know the details of the third-party company that is supplying controllers for the Ampler Curt bike? Im specifically looking for the controller that supports 35 km an hour. Ampler does not supply this controller anymore that is suitable for 35 km an hour so I want to try if I can buy directly myself.

Thank you in advance, Jan
 
Hi,

seems there are some guys with a good knowledge in the group. Since Ampler has problems to deliver replacement controllers it might be the best way to find a replacement or built something by yourself. Looking for the easier way:
Does someone know a controller which can be used with the hub motor on the Ampler curt with the existing components ?
(Battery , PAS sensor, charger etc... ) maybe with a small Display instead of the instabile Ampler App.
Any idea ? Thanks
 
@JdR
On the board pictures you can read "Accellerated systems inc." -found their website at " www.accelleratedsystems.com ".
Seems to be a Canadian company located in Ontario
Ampler is meanwhile bankrupt... means after one year waiting for spareparts and a lot of emails spending over 800 Euros for
broken spare parts - I had to decide for an own solution. Searched the easier way:
Purchased a KT36/48 controller /found a small version) + Display LCD3 + PAS sensor and it seems to work with components out-
side of the frame. First test today. Next step will be to integrate the electronics in the (narrow) frame. Waiting for spare components at the moment. Good time for setup an tests.
Here some pictures:
Pict1: Bike with external battery
Pict1: Using the internal battery
Pict3. Picture of the controller which has to move into the frame - cables are too short at the moment
So still some work to do :)
 

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