Over tightened M14 axel bolt

[chrisvoi]

Ok here's where it started ,, I was given a 1000w voilamart wheel and other bits to get me started, since then I've sorted the battery and other bits and everything for the most part has me perfect, the wheel came with couple spokes missing buckled rough and dusty , once I'd fixed all the issues the wheel runs great no issues ... BUT every couple of rides I would have to tighten up the M14 axel bolts to stop a loose wobble the wheel had wasn't really a problem but ovb wasn't supposed to be like this , I then replaced both sealed bearings from inside the hub because I thought maybe this could be the issue, they where sweet ,, but replaced anyway, since then I've just had to tighten them up hoping to grab some nylon type locking nuts next time the wheel had to come off ..... SO recently I've gone to tighten the nut in question and it literally turns on the axel doesn't tighten up anymore , although it isn't loose and cannot be turned by hand how am I or could I remove this but to inspect whether I've threaded the nut or the axel thread one being easy fix another being a complete pain, btw all washers are in good placement and tourqe arm installed ect and I presume I've overtightened the nut as I have been using a crossbar style thing used for car wheels ! Does the job any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanx .

 

[E-HP]

Sounds like you may have crappy torque arms. Do you have a link to the ones you're using? You shouldn't need to tighten the nuts that much. I have good torque arms and I once left the house with my axle nuts just tightened by hand. I figured it out after getting home. No issues, just tightened them up snug.
If you strip the axle threads, its game over, so if they show signs, you may want to clean up the threads with an M14x1.5 die.

 

[chrisvoi]

Sounds like you may have crappy torque arms. Do you have a link to the ones you're using? You shouldn't need to tighten the nuts that much. I have good torque arms and I once left the house with my axle nuts just tightened by hand. I figured it out after getting home. No issues, just tightened them up snug.
If you strip the axle threads, its game over, so if they show signs, you may want to clean up the threads with an M14x1.5 die.

Yeah mate just one torque arm on the bad side, is actually solid never moved or loose , I may have misdiagnosed the wobble in the wheel but tightening the nut seems to fix that , but only temporary, tbh nothing special it's literally the most standard type arm from ebike solutions aswell as the M14 nut which is a different colour to the original and I've only had them on for 3 weeks before I notice this threading issues, I'm hoping it's just the nut made with a softer material, but as I said from actual ebike place ,, even now tho the bike is fine it's solid with little to no wobble in the wheel but now I fear , if ...or when I get a puncture , with that nut just turning on the spanner , I'm going to struggle fixing if I cannot remove the nut ,, and regarding the axel I'm fairly confident I could replace the whole thing , it's been in pieces over the months I've used it , covering 779 miles with these temp issues , thanx for your reply

 

[99t4]

OP stated he overtightened the axle nuts with an automobile lugnut cross wrench:

Normally used when changing tires/wheels, dealing with 65 ft.-lbs. or more. Seriously overpowered tool for the job of tightening hubmotor axle nuts.

OP you will need to first inspect the axle threads and nut, see which has been damaged.

Nylox nuts are not the solution.

 

[Papa]

Do you have enough exposed axle threads to thread-on a second nut? If not, use a "nut cracker" tool to split the nut off.

You need to start using a torque wrench - metric charts abound to provide the correct torque

 

[chrisvoi]

OP stated he overtightened the axle nuts with an automobile lugnut cross wrench:

Normally used when changing tires/wheels, dealing with 65 ft.-lbs. or more. Seriously overpowered tool for the job of tightening hubmotor axle nuts.

OP you will need to first inspect the axle threads and nut, see which has been damaged.

Nylox nuts are not the solution.

Yes this is correct, but I only used with small pressure JUST to lock it down once a week for 7 weeks or so 700 miles I've had to do this just so the wheel didn't rattle, and still unsure why , and only can I use this tool on the drive side ,, the other side has the wire running through it so I have to use a big adjustable for that side , other than cutting the bolt without somehow damaging the thread underneath Im presuming my cheap ass nuts have failed (hopefully) because the axel is real hard steel I presume maybe ok underneath

 

[chrisvoi]

Do you have enough exposed axle threads to thread-on a second nut? If not, use a "nut cracker" tool to split the nut off.

You need to start using a torque wrench - metric charts abound to provide the correct torqu

 

[chrisvoi]

No mate, my first thought was to add a nut so it couldn't move any more but there isn't any thread left I thought oh well it's threaded but it's stuck at a point where it's too tight to move by hand and wheel is solid in the bike , just gonna be a problem when I need to remove it

 

[Gruesome]

If the wheel is firmly seated and doesn't come loose, why don't you just ride the bike?

 

[chrisvoi]

If the wheel is firmly seated and doesn't come loose, why don't you just ride the bike?

I do ride to work and back every day, but Wen the wheel starts to get wobbly again I only have the wires side I can tighten up , and probably thread that one also , when I've nipped them up in the past it's been good, and I've just presumed the nuts vibrate loose maybe , which is where the nylon idea came in but never got round to tryin them, now if I get a puncture what I suppose to do even if I did have the money to blow on a new wheel , I wouldn't be able get this one off even for a inner tube , sorry this all might sound dumb to you guys, but I built mine from nothing with zero knowledge and somehow all the complicated stuff has been fine

 

[chrisvoi]

I do ride to work and back every day, but Wen the wheel starts to get wobbly again I only have the wires side I can tighten up , and probably thread that one also , when I've nipped them up in the past it's been good, and I've just presumed the nuts vibrate loose maybe , which is where the nylon idea came in but never got round to tryin them, now if I get a puncture what I suppose to do even if I did have the money to blow on a new wheel , I wouldn't be able get this one off even for a inner tube , sorry this all might sound dumb to you guys, but I built mine from nothing with zero knowledge and somehow all the complicated stuff has been fine

And to further answer, I could ride it fine with the wobbly wheel it works still but moving the bike around or breaking ect becomes noticeable that the bike isn't tight, I'd be so happy if I could get it tight to the sweet spot all in lined up sweet and it just stay there

 

[Papa]

just gonna be a problem when I need to remove it

The original (defective) nut needs to be removed to asses the damage to the axle. That's what a "nut cracker" tool is specifically used for. They're cheap... Go buy one. .

 

[E-HP]

Yeah mate just one torque arm on the bad side, is actually solid never moved or loose , I may have misdiagnosed the wobble in the wheel but tightening the nut seems to fix that , but only temporary, tbh nothing special it's literally the most standard type arm from ebike solutions aswell as the M14 nut which is a different colour to the original and I've only had them on for 3 weeks before I notice this threading issues, I'm hoping it's just the nut made with a softer material, but as I said from actual ebike place ,, even now tho the bike is fine it's solid with little to no wobble in the wheel but now I fear , if ...or when I get a puncture , with that nut just turning on the spanner , I'm going to struggle fixing if I cannot remove the nut ,, and regarding the axel I'm fairly confident I could replace the whole thing , it's been in pieces over the months I've used it , covering 779 miles with these temp issues , thanx for your reply

If the torque arm fits tightly to the axle, there should be no movement or loosening. If its one like this, it's just for show and almost useless:

 

[chrisvoi]

Further further more , the entire internet doesn't seem to have a solution or even a term I can use, where the nut turns freely both ways , if I could find a way to remove the nut , I could easily tap and die possibly to get even more use from this wheel .. btw had 5000 plus miles on the clock 7 weeks ago I've added 779

 

[chrisvoi]

The original (defective) nut needs to be removed to asses the damage to the axle. That's what a "nut cracker" tool is specifically used for. They're cheap... Go buy one. .

Ok I'll check out now

 

[chrisvoi]

Ok I'll check out now

Ooooh a nut SPLITTER , ?? THAT makes sense ! I presume it will cut through this type of nut ? Great idea btw

 

[A-DamW]

Further further more , the entire internet doesn't seem to have a solution or even a term I can use, where the nut turns freely both ways

"Stripped threads"

 

[chrisvoi]

Ooooh a nut SPLITTER , ?? THAT makes sense ! I presume it will cut through this type of nut ? Great idea btw

I could send pics but I'm sure

"Stripped threads"

Yer but videos or help only seems to apply to bolts or rust sorry I'm just not finding exactly what I'm looking for but a nut splitter seems to be my only option, which I also never heard of but wondering if it's gonna damage my axel thread

 

[chrisvoi]

I could send pics but I'm sure

Yer but videos or help only seems to apply to bolts or rust sorry I'm just not finding exactly what I'm looking for but a nut splitter seems to be my only option, which I also never heard of but wondering if it's gonna damage my axel thread

Either way it's gotta come off, and I do have a spare M14 if the axel is good

 

[A-DamW]

Either way it's gotta come off, and I do have a spare M14 if the axel is good

Theoretically, you could use some beefy clamping dropouts.
If the clamps have enough clamping area/pressure, I'll bet you could get away without any axle nuts:
Clamping dropout 1
Clamping dropout 2
Clamping dropout 3
Clamping dropout 4

 

[Gruesome]

So the nut is stuck AND freely rotating on the axle?

 

[chrisvoi]

So the nut is stuck AND freely rotating on the axle?

No it isn't stuck but yes it is , just doesn't tighten or loosen it just turns but not loose either, I think with the nut splitting tool hopefully I can just replace the nut ,, but doesn't doesn't stop the future wobble .. I think I need a new wheel aventually

 

[Papa]

I also never heard of but wondering if it's gonna damage my axel thread

You tighten the nut cracker only enough to visibly fracture the nut, and no more. Remove the NC,... rotate the nut 180 and repeat. The tool's chisel should NOT touch the axle.

 

[chrisvoi]

You tighten the nut cracker only enough to visibly fracture the nut, and no more. Remove the NC,... rotate the nut 180 and repeat. The tool's chisel should NOT touch the axle.

Oh good thanx honestly I never seen this tool , seems to be ovb best option for me ( only) although a guy said to try a impact gun to rattle it looses back onto a thread ,, ATM the bike if fine I'm using as we speak , but will be getting into splitting it off I'll let you know how goes thanx for help

 

[99t4]

...my cheap ass nuts have failed (hopefully) because the axel is real hard steel I presume maybe ok underneath

Bad presumption. These axles are not that strong and have been known to break, strip, and crack before.