Packcycle 2.5 (watercooling mods in progress)

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So.

I've been doing a little shopping, and picked up a $65 BMX bike along with my copy of Mario Kart Wii (which is sweet, BTW. The Wii Wheel actually works very well and doesn't feel gimmicky). Not coincidentally, I also happen to have a spare 20" rim and spokes for the BD36. So, when I pick up a few schottkys for the brushed controller and some zeners for the Golden Motor controller, I'll lace it into the new rim and run it at 60V (mebbe 72V) on the BMX. Undecided as to whether to put it on the front (where I will have problems putting on a torque arm) or the back (which means I will have no gears). Given that it won't be ridden very far at a time, I'm leaning towards throwing it and some wrenches (a la DoctorBass) in the rear drops. Plus the freewheel sucks.

This should progress much more quickly than the first bike since I have everything (short of the diodes and another battery) I need to put it together.

Also should get some new slime'd inner tubes for it. Forgot those while I was there.

The BD36 in a 26" rim at 48V would accelerate about as fast as a car from a stoplight on 30A. The same in a 20" and 72V should be a rocket 8).

Don't bug me about the brushes. I know. Really I do. I have another brush assembly to mess with if I screw this one up. And I don't really care what happens to this motor anyway. The Golden Motor is my baby now. :D
 
Um... about the brushes... Do you use animal hair or synthetic?

And why bother with the controllers? Just plug in the contacts when you want to go!

Bf1lightning.jpg



:mrgreen:
 
Damn, respoking wheels is a bastard. :?

Spent about two hours unspoking the BD36 from the 26" re-spoking it into the 20" rim. I THOUGHT the spokes were sized for a radial pattern (as hubs in small rims usually use radial spoke patterns). Get about halfway around the rim and realized there's WAY to much extra spoke, which means that the spokes are the length needed for a cross-one pattern. Ugh.

Take the motor out again. I see that my other bike is red and remember that I wanted the motor painted black :p

So I strap it into the vice and give it a little juice with the charger as the power source. Give it a couple coats of paint. Turns out that I had the throttle up a little too high and that I was too liberal in my application of spray paint. Weird little bubble things appeared in various places on the motor due to centripetal force. Would kinda look cool if the pattern was more regular. There were ripples on the sides of the motor, too. So I scrape that off and give it some more coats of paint on very low speed. Took a lot of paint do away with the bumps from where I couldn't scrape off the old paint. Looks good now, at least.

While that was drying, I started spoking the Golden Motor into the 26" rim the BD36 left. Irritatingly, the spoke nipples that came with the Golden Motor were a guage too big for the spokes. They just slid around on the threads. Luckily, the spoke nipples from the old motor fit the new spokes.

Spent a while (like 2 hours) figuring out/screwing up/finishing spoking the Golden Motor into the new rim. Will true it tomorrow, because it's 1:00AM as it is.

Leaving the BD36 to dry overnight. Should probably get some clear-coat to spray over it, because the black paint (enamel) chips off kinda easily.

I see what happened to the BMX, though. Something VERY heavy got dropped on it. Whatever it was managed to squash the back wheel so much that the spokes bent. I'm gussing it also damaged the freewheel, because I was in Wal-Mart again today (to pick up some Slime and another Wii Wheel) and was messing with the same bike I bought. This one's freewheel worked fine. :x

So the BD36 is going in the back. Have to figure out a way to keep the pegs...Prolly just grind out the holes a little...
 
I MOTHERF***ING HATE SPRAY PAINT!!! :x

So, I get some nice clear coat to spray over the black I already had on the motor, seeing as how the black wasn't very durable. IT F***ING MELTS THE BLACK and then gives it this weird cobwebby texture! And I don't just mean it got it wet again, I waited several hours and it had turned to a sticky goo. :x

I've been scraping and sanding paint off for THREE HOURS and I barely got to the sideplates. The flat parts were easy enough when powered in a vice, but the small corners are a BASTARD to do. The sandpaper doesn't work very well (because the motor was lathed crappy and is very slightly lopsided), and using something like a screwdriver messes up the brushed metal look at the edges.

I'm sick of this CRAP. I'm just gonna sand it down to the metal and give it a clear coat and be DONE with it. :?
 
Ouch... Ouch...

I'm sick of this CRAP. I'm just gonna sand it down to the metal and give it a clear coat and be DONE with it. :?

You could try taking it to an auto body shop. They'd fix it up really nice. Dunno what it would cost, but ti can't hurt to ask.
 
lazarus2405 said:
You could try taking it to an auto body shop. They'd fix it up really nice. Dunno what it would cost, but ti can't hurt to ask.

I have too much effort in it to give up now. :(

Plus, I'm almost flat broke. I loaned someone $500 for rent, and I never touch my savings. I've got like $40 available to me right now, and that's for bowling and snacks.

This is one of those times where I think, "Having a metal lathe would be so awesome right now." Could have the whole thing cleaned off and shiny inside of 15 minutes (could make a little circular designery, too).

But, I don't. Lack of rupees...:?
 
I <3 liquid paint stripper. A little dip for the sideplates in it and I can wipe the paint off with a paper towel. :D

Hope the bearings are at least semi-liquid proof. I couldn't get them out of the sideplates. They're partially resting in the stuff. :shock:

I'll admit the motor looks pretty good in brushed aluminum, though. But was it worth my time?

...

Hell no.
 
lawsonuw said:
When I popped mine open the bearings had seals. (http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=3527) So unless the paint remover is melting the seals you should be fine.

So does mine, luckily. But that stuff is really caustic. It actually did start to mess with them a little (got a bit soft) but I kept it off for the most part and they're okay. :D

Anyway, now I had the problem of how to deal with sanding the sideplates as nicely as I did the rotor case? There were little radial beads eminating from the center and a logo on the side, both of which meant I couldn't power it in a vise like I did for the stator.

The answer of course was to get rid of them. I got out the Dremel and a cutoff disc and carefully ground them flat. I had to leave for work after that (I'm on break right now), so I'll get to grinding the other sideplate and sanding them.

Then I can lace it into the rim and true it. Well, after I find a spoke wrench anyway...

Other than that, all I have left to get are the diodes for the controller and another battery. Also two wrenches. Why don't any stores sell single wrenches? It's annoying. I don't want to order some, but I definitely don't want to buy thirty wrenches to get two matching ones. :?

Oh yeah: Predicted speed is about 30-35mph at 72V (I think that's what it was).
 
I ran into the same wrenches-only-in-sets problem at Home Depot. The local True Value hardware store had individual 10mm wrenches. Something like $8 a piece after tax, so not cheap, but without excess at least.
 
XD Aaaaa the tackiness! That's sort of what happened to the black when I had it on too fast.

Anway, I finally finished sanding it and gave it a few coats of clear. Has a nice satin finish and bare sides now. There were a few small but deep gouges that I was too lazy to sand out (plus I would have ran out of sandpaper), but they're impossible to see unless you're really looking. Looks good, IMO.

I found my spoke wrench and I don't have work tomorrow, so I'll be free to lace and true the hub. I swear, this will not only be tolerable, but actually ENJOYABLE compared to the hell that was fixing this up to look nice.

I am both taken aback and mildly irritated that I wouldn't have had any of these problems if I hadn't spoked the wheel wrong in the first place. :x

ALSO: I finally managed to get the paint of my hands by dipping them in the paint stripper. Do not do this. It burns if you don't wash it off quick. I already knew, but I work in a library and I'd probably get fired for damaging the hundreds of books that I have to deal with every day. :?
 
Since you're painting for outdoor use, try a paint called "Hammerite" Its the hardest finish of any spraypaint out there, and hold up realy well, but its slightly metalic and leaves a strange textured finish. Looks good, just not smooth.

An alternitive is to go with automotive touchup paint. Get the same brand for both the base and the clear, because cross brand mixing will often cause the base cote to melt.
 
Drunkskunk said:
Since you're painting for outdoor use, try a paint called "Hammerite" Its the hardest finish of any spraypaint out there, and hold up realy well, but its slightly metalic and leaves a strange textured finish. Looks good, just not smooth.

An alternitive is to go with automotive touchup paint. Get the same brand for both the base and the clear, because cross brand mixing will often cause the base cote to melt.

I'll remember that if I decide to paint something else (possibly a frame). I used Rust-Oleum designed for similar. It works great and came out very slick.

Anyway, I spent about 3 hours lacing and truing the wheel. By "truing" I mean getting it to the point to where the wobble wasn't excessive :D. I'll do it better when I get a truing stand, but for now it works fine.

After that I put the hub in the rear of the bike, put the pegs on the front wheels (they were made for a 3/8" axle, so the won't fit on a BD36 :?), and took it for a test. It's pretty awesome. Thrust is up, of course, so it takes off about as fast as it could when I full throttled it and pedaled from a stop in the 26". It's pretty neat being able to just have your feet up on the front pegs, though I'll need to adjust the seat for it to be more comfortable than the pedals.

Orvac closed before I finished with the hub, so I'll have to get some diodes and another battery from there tomorrow. Stupid Fry's doesn't have high-powered diodes :(.
 
lazarus2405 said:
:!: This thread needs pictures.

Rawr! Don't remind me. I'd like to post pics of the motor and connectors, but I can't afford a camera now! I got like $420 of loan to pay off (interest free, woo).

I could use my g-ma's cell phone, but it doesn't have an SD card or a cable to connect up to it. :?

They are having a sale on cameras at Target, though. Almost half-off on all of them. Mebbe get a cheap one from there...


Hmm, checked my accounts. I can swing maybe a $100 camera. I'll check tomorrow and see if they're still on sale. If they are, I'll get one. If not, I find a cable for the cell phone.

Recommendations, anyone?
 
http://www.target.com/Nikon-Coolpix-Compact-Digital-Camera/dp/B0011N180Q/qid=1210167159/ref=br_1_9/602-9882252-5877459
51jmEqNXKpL._SS384_.jpg


$140, but a lotta bang/buck and Nikon glass. :mrgreen:
 
My recommendation on digital cameras is to get a refurbished older model camera. (I did that and I'm quite happy with my camera) My other recommendation is get an old Fujifilm FD-30, it has better than average performance in low light, and is quite cheap now.

Marty

P.S. http://www.dpreview.com/ has LOTS of info on what to buy and what not to buy.
 
Get a two year or older refurbished.

Two year old top of the line tech for pennies.

http://www.refurbdepot.com/productdetails2.cfm?Product_ID=4031
 
I was waiting for pics too.

Get a USB webcam and a long-ass USB cable. Look for it in garage sales or flea markets and you might get it for just a few bucks.

J
 
Get a USB webcam and a long-ass USB cable.

I'd have to disagree. I have tried taking photos with my webcam (advertised 1.3MP still capability), and the results were awful. The worst bit is that most webcams can't focus; they're set to a specific focal length to save money, making anything closer than 3 feet unbearably blurry.
 
If you consider used, the Canon A70 is nice: Computer controllable (for intervolometer) and macro to <2".
 

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TylerDurden said:
http://www.target.com/Nikon-Coolpix-Compact-Digital-Camera/dp/B0011N180Q/qid=1210167159/ref=br_1_9/602-9882252-5877459

WTF that's the one I got :eek:!

Anyway! Pics!

BD36hub1.jpg


The hub after I've had my (unwilling) way with it.


battblock.jpg


The 48V block of batteries with breaker, controller, and Doc Wattson attached. Soon to be 50% more voltage 8).


connectorpack.jpg


The battery side of the connector I made.


connectorseat.jpg


The bike side of the same connector, hidden under the seat. Should probably trim my nails...

*bites at them*


bustedmp3.jpg


What I originally was going to use to take pics. $100 MP3 player sucked to begin with, though. Total waste of my money. And I lost the reciept before I got home :x!


I'll take pics of the whole bike tomorrow.
 
Woo! 72V successful! Haven't ridden it yet, though. Pics and a spinup vid after bowling :mrgreen:!
 
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