Even an "alloy" is still metal; steel has carbon in amongst it's various metals (the alloy of which depends on which kind of steel it is) in it, and it's still metal.
motomech said:I don't how you guys mount those axle mount trailers. W/ dual torque arms and a L-bracket from Ebike CA that protects the wire/exit area , my axle space is full up.
That's why I went w/ a seat post mount.
amberwolf said:Even an "alloy" is still metal; steel has carbon in amongst it's various metals (the alloy of which depends on which kind of steel it is) in it, and it's still metal.
I have one of the bob trailer stays somewhere.... It's from an Ibex I believe. No trailer or extras, so make me an offer.eCue said:Thinking about making a bob ? you can buy the front mounting arm and rear wheel stay as replacement
Buk___ said:Has anyone ever considered or seen a bracket mounted to the headstock under the top and bottom cups?
amberwolf said:I don't know if it would cause a problem (guess it would depend on the load and the characteristics of the tube and brackets), but I imagine over time the forces deforming (or trying to) the headtube, as it pulls on the top and pushes on the bottom.
Additionally, normally the toptube is in compression and teh downtube in tension. When the headtube is loaded, then (especially on bumps, suspension or not), it'll reverse that to some degree (perhaps completely if the load is high enough), and repeatedly stress the area in ways it wouldn't normally see. I have no idea if that would cause any problems; you'd have to try it to find out.
amberwolf said:There are a number of bikes (some DIY, some commercial) with a cargo platform (of varying size and load capacity) that is a part of the frame itself, extending out beyond the headtube over the front wheel.
Chalo has a thread about one such bike he built, if you look thru his posts.
amberwolf said:What I would recommend for DIY non-weld version is parallel tubes clamped to the toptube (parallel all the way to the seattube) to cantilever the load all the way back to the seattube/post. Iv'e considered this method for an experiment on CrazyBike2 to add a platform on it's front end; haven't done it because now I have the SB Cruiser trike that carries a lot more than the bike already--but I have considered adding it to the trike as well.
Chalo said:That might work fine, with the right implementation. I think the faceplate that joins the top and bottom mounts would have to be thicker, or maybe just bent into a channel shape to give it some integrity. I would only trust steel headset cups to accept the resulting shear loading. One of the handful of deep cup DH headsets that have been made over the years would be an appropriate pairing.
Chalo said:If the top mount were fastened to the face plate with screws rather than integral with it, then the bracket wouldn't have to be specific to one single head tube length. But a single piece bracket would be tidier looking and stronger, all else equal.
Chalo said:Keeping the thing from rotating around the head tube even the slightest amount would be key to the success of the design.
Chalo said:FSA and Chris King both made headsets like that, plus others I'm less familiar with. If no luck, the more common versions of FSA The Pig headsets have 12mm press fits. That should do it.
Chalo said:For affixing the side tabs to your frame, allow plenty of room between the attachment points and the highly stressed down tube to head tube joint. I've had a frame crack at the riveted-on shifter cable guides more than 2" back from the weld.
Chalo said:I would install 5mm rivnuts for that job, rather than screws or pop rivets. They're common in the bike world, usually used for water bottle bosses.
Stu Summer said:Ecue,
What is that trailer with the really long tongue and where can I get one? It look like a canoe trailer.