Parts all rated in AC. How to tell what their DC rating is?

[omegagamer89]

If no short ? Cut your off the end add andersons or 4 mm connectors plus an antispark and move on.
Throw away your old plug away so you won't use it again.

The plug is no longer the issue. The FUSE is the problem right now. It blows the second I complete the curcuit using the switch. I dont even have time to try and RUN the motor. I literally flip the switch, completing the circuit, and it blows the fuse. I tryied a 60a 32v fuse last night and poof, instant blow, same as every other fuse.


Im at work right now, so i cant take pictres of the system, but here's a super crappy illustration of my setup that i did in paint:

EDIT: Corrected the picture to more accurately reflect the setup.

 

[marty]

Lets try removing things one thing at a time to see if the problem goes away. Unplug the motor power cord.

Beware that if the wires or the Lipo cells catch on fire inside a building where people live, nothing good will happen.

Please read:
2013 Li Battery Catastrophic Events - Summary Thread
and
2014 Li Battery Catastrophic Events - Summary Thread

 

[parabellum]

You repeat and repeat battery to "motor power cord"? Should it mean to controller power cord? In past I have connected 98v battery to 60A and more capable controllers with 4A fuse for motor wire combination search and have not blown them. You definitively have "A SHORT" wherever you are sticking your battery in! You are performing dangerous tasks with no sufficient knowledge, (understanding from your words) questionable skills, using relatively dangerous battery chemistry and apparently ignoring or overseeing every wise advice. You should stop sticking those "self made" batteries to any plug before you burn your and/or others home down. You should:
1) post photos
2) ask questions
3) read answers
4) Discuss if disagree
5) Fully understand what you are doing, ask if still not.
6) Follow given instructions
7) Finally do what you want to do with sufficient precaution.

Good luck!

 

[Punx0r]

Right, so the battery is connected to the controller, switch is powered on, and everything is fine?

Then you connect the motor to the controller and the use immediately blows?

If so, two thoughts:

1) It's unconventional and unusually to power up a controller first and then connect the motor. Unless this worked before I would try it the other way around and see if it makes any different.

2) The controller may have a fault, such that the output is shorting through the motor. However, if this were the case you'd expect a spark at the connector as you plugged it in.

BTW, you can use a bulb in place of the fuse for testing purposes. Bulb lights up = significant power being drawn. Saves on fuses.

 

[dnmun]

or he could be connecting the battery directly to two of the phase wires and skipping the controller altogether since he is already sure he knows there is nothing wrong with the controller.

there are a lotta people who test using the spark test to see if things work right. i remember the guy who used the spark test on his throttle.

 

[Gregb]

........ Even if the polarity was reversed, that still wouldnt cause that kind of spark and burnt wire JUST from plugging it in.

Sure it could, depending on how you had it set up. I once blew the tips off my multi meter probes when I accidentally crossed them while metering my 36v battery. Big spark and DDM probes 1/3 shorter...:lol:

Glad they weren't crossed on your side.

As for the OP, their doesn't seem to be a crossover rating that I can find. The big difference is that AC fluctuates (Cycles) and DC doesn't.

This one is related to airplanes.....

I hope he never designs anything I work on. That article is nonsense. He doesn't seem to know the difference between RMS and peak to peak AC voltage. The reason his DC switches blow up is because they are at rated voltage which is equal to RMS. the peak to peak of a 240V AC voltage is over 600V. That is what breaks down the switches...( and if used in AC ccts can kill) ...RMS current and DC current are the same thing for all practical purposes. If u don;t understand it, look it up. Try putting a e.g 1K resistor across the output of the controller in place of the motor and measure the current. remember Ohms law?? I = E/R ...... then try putting it in series with the motor and see what happens.

 

[omegagamer89]

Lets try removing things one thing at a time to see if the problem goes away. Unplug the motor power cord.

If I unplug ANY thing at any time, then the circuit is incomplete, so it would be impossible to test if the problem was there or not. Its literally just "A goes into B, B goes into C" its so simply its just plain not possible that there is any problem with the connections. The way its set up its physically impossible to plug something into the wrong thing, because the plug would FIT. The plug from the controller to the throttle is a different size/shape than the plug from the controller to the e-brakes, which is different than the plug from the controller to the motor itself, etc. The plugs are all designed in such a way that the ONLY thing they fit into is their correct match. I couldnt possibly plug, say female plug A into male plug F, because they wouldnt fit together. Female plug A ONLY fits with male plug A, female B only fits with male B, etc.


Let me be absolutely clear about this, to everyone:
THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO POSSIBILITY WHATSOEVER THAT ANY WIRE, CABLE, OR CONNECTION IS HOOKED UP WRONG I have checked and double checked EVERYTHING a dozen times over. Every single wire is where it should be.

You repeat and repeat battery to "motor power cord"? Should it mean to controller power cord? In past I have connected 98v battery to 60A and more capable controllers with 4A fuse for motor wire combination search and have not blown them. You definitively have "A SHORT" wherever you are sticking your battery in! You are performing dangerous tasks with no sufficient knowledge, (understanding from your words) questionable skills, using relatively dangerous battery chemistry and apparently ignoring or overseeing every wise advice. You should stop sticking those "self made" batteries to any plug before you burn your and/or others home down.

Yes, my bad. Its the cord from the battery to the controller, which then leads into the motor. (semantics)
I am not ignoring any advice, I am simply already aware that the advice is incorrect. No matter how many times people say I have a short, it doesnt make it suddenly become true. I know for a fact that I do not have a short. period. The end. Ive checked. I know. There is. no. short. Ok? its not ignoring the advice, its simply telling people that that particular piece of advice is incorrect in this situation.

Right, so the battery is connected to the controller, switch is powered on, and everything is fine?

Then you connect the motor to the controller and the use immediately blows?

If so, two thoughts:

1) It's unconventional and unusually to power up a controller first and then connect the motor. Unless this worked before I would try it the other way around and see if it makes any different.

2) The controller may have a fault, such that the output is shorting through the motor. However, if this were the case you'd expect a spark at the connector as you plugged it in.

BTW, you can use a bulb in place of the fuse for testing purposes. Bulb lights up = significant power being drawn. Saves on fuses.

No, that is incorrect.

The battery is connected to the cord to the controller (all cords are connected properly) and I the switch is turned on, and the fuse blows.
Everything is connected, the entire thing is ready and set up properly, but the switch is not in the "on" position. I flip the switch into "on" position, and the fuse blows.

The controller is not at fault, as it still functions properly with my old battery pack, which is the same as this one, but 15Ah instead of 60Ah.

I will try the bulb idea when I get home tonight. (I just hope the bulb doesnt explode on me.)

or he could be connecting the battery directly to two of the phase wires and skipping the controller altogether since he is already sure he knows there is nothing wrong with the controller.

there are a lotta people who test using the spark test to see if things work right. i remember the guy who used the spark test on his throttle.

No, the battery gets connected to the cord coming from the controller, which in turn in already connected to the motor, throttle, etc. The switch is off and everything is connected, and at that point, all is fine. Then, i turn on the switch, and the fuse blows immediately.





I will post a video when I get home tonight, showing exactly how everything is hooked up, and what happens when I flip the switch.

 

[marty]

Lets try removing things one thing at a time to see if the problem goes away. Unplug the motor power cord.

If I unplug ANY thing at any time, then the circuit is incomplete, so it would be impossible to test if the problem was there or not. Its literally just "A goes into B, B goes into C" its so simply its just plain not possible that there is any problem with the connections. The way its set up its physically impossible to plug something into the wrong thing, because the plug would FIT. The plug from the controller to the throttle is a different size/shape than the plug from the controller to the e-brakes, which is different than the plug from the controller to the motor itself, etc. The plugs are all designed in such a way that the ONLY thing they fit into is their correct match. I couldnt possibly plug, say female plug A into male plug F, because they wouldnt fit together. Female plug A ONLY fits with male plug A, female B only fits with male B, etc.


Let me be absolutely clear about this, to everyone:
THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO POSSIBILITY WHATSOEVER THAT ANY WIRE, CABLE, OR CONNECTION IS HOOKED UP WRONG I have checked and double checked EVERYTHING a dozen times over. Every single wire is where it should be.

You repeat and repeat battery to "motor power cord"? Should it mean to controller power cord? In past I have connected 98v battery to 60A and more capable controllers with 4A fuse for motor wire combination search and have not blown them. You definitively have "A SHORT" wherever you are sticking your battery in! You are performing dangerous tasks with no sufficient knowledge, (understanding from your words) questionable skills, using relatively dangerous battery chemistry and apparently ignoring or overseeing every wise advice. You should stop sticking those "self made" batteries to any plug before you burn your and/or others home down.

Yes, my bad. Its the cord from the battery to the controller, which then leads into the motor. (semantics)
I am not ignoring any advice, I am simply already aware that the advice is incorrect. No matter how many times people say I have a short, it doesnt make it suddenly become true. I know for a fact that I do not have a short. period. The end. Ive checked. I know. There is. no. short. Ok? its not ignoring the advice, its simply telling people that that particular piece of advice is incorrect in this situation.

Right, so the battery is connected to the controller, switch is powered on, and everything is fine?

Then you connect the motor to the controller and the use immediately blows?

If so, two thoughts:

1) It's unconventional and unusually to power up a controller first and then connect the motor. Unless this worked before I would try it the other way around and see if it makes any different.

2) The controller may have a fault, such that the output is shorting through the motor. However, if this were the case you'd expect a spark at the connector as you plugged it in.

BTW, you can use a bulb in place of the fuse for testing purposes. Bulb lights up = significant power being drawn. Saves on fuses.

No, that is incorrect.

The battery is connected to the cord to the controller (all cords are connected properly) and I the switch is turned on, and the fuse blows.
Everything is connected, the entire thing is ready and set up properly, but the switch is not in the "on" position. I flip the switch into "on" position, and the fuse blows.

The controller is not at fault, as it still functions properly with my old battery pack, which is the same as this one, but 15Ah instead of 60Ah.

I will try the bulb idea when I get home tonight. (I just hope the bulb doesnt explode on me.)

or he could be connecting the battery directly to two of the phase wires and skipping the controller altogether since he is already sure he knows there is nothing wrong with the controller.

there are a lotta people who test using the spark test to see if things work right. i remember the guy who used the spark test on his throttle.

No, the battery gets connected to the cord coming from the controller, which in turn in already connected to the motor, throttle, etc. The switch is off and everything is connected, and at that point, all is fine. Then, i turn on the switch, and the fuse blows immediately.





I will post a video when I get home tonight, showing exactly how everything is hooked up, and what happens when I flip the switch.

[youtube]IodNsAtN6TE[/youtube]

 

[parabellum]

omegagamer89,

1) Marty means, you should connect everything sequentially.a) battery (turn switch, fuse ok)b) then battery-controller (turn switch, fuse ok)c) then battery-controller-motor. If fuse blows on b) then you have SHORT in or after your connection (in the controller perhaps).
2) You have 12s 5Ah LiPo battery pack or in other words 44.4V 5Ah nominal. (Capacity stays same in series connection) and 44.4V may be to high for 36V system.

BTW. do you have a multimeter?

 

[marty]

omegagamer89,

1) Marty means, you should connect everything sequentially.a) battery (turn switch, fuse ok)b) then battery-controller (turn switch, fuse ok)c) then battery-controller-motor. If fuse blows on b) then you have SHORT in or after your connection (in the controller perhaps).
2) You have 12s 5Ah LiPo battery pack or in other words 44.4V 5Ah nominal. (Capacity stays same in series connection) and 44.4V may be to high for 36V system.

BTW. do you have a multimeter?

Exactly what I was trying to type. Thanks for explaining what was in my mind.

I apologize for the Massive Explosion and Chemical Fire Video. That was not funny.

 

[omegagamer89]

Issue has been resolved, thank you to everyone for your help.

Apparently, when I re-soldered a wire to the plug when replacing the one that fried, I did actually reverse the polarity. My apologies to those who suggested this but I shot down.
Im not sure how I managed to do that, as I could have sworn I soldered the wires on in the same way they were before being burned.

Well, anyway, thanks again for all your help.

 

[e-beach]

Issue has been resolved, thank you to everyone for your help.

Apparently, when I re-soldered a wire to the plug when replacing the one that fried, I did actually reverse the polarity. My apologies to those who suggested this but I shot down.
Im not sure how I managed to do that, as I could have sworn I soldered the wires on in the same way they were before being burned.

Well, anyway, thanks again for all your help.

Glad you solved it.......

 

[Gregb]

Well the battery pack is a 12s. I ordered 12 individual 1s, 5Ah lipo cells and wired them up into two 6s packs, which I have in series. So then, that would be 60 amps right? (5 amps per cell x 12 cells)

Does anyone think this fellow should be encouraged when he doesn't understand that AC appliances are rated in RMS current and that is the same as DC and that using AC power plugs for DC is a big no no? or that he doesn't understand the difference between AH and Amps and he thinks that batteries deliver e.g 5 amps because they are rated at 5AH and not that the current they can deliver is a product of their voltage and the load and if the load is too low he can destroy the battery by exceeding its C rating.???? and that putting 12 in series will give him 60 Amps?
I hope he goes nowhere near LiPO..........he was given some good advice but seems to have ignored it... It's a worry....

 

[parabellum]

As you say. He was warned 4 times and given links to educational and catastrophic failure treads at least twice. I hope, he does not appear in this tread soon. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=56305

 

[dnmun]

nobody cares if there is some electrical code jargon that says you can only use AC stuff for AC and DC stuff for DC. if it works so why bother worrying about it. he is not switching current with it.

the problem is that the joints inside those black wire plugs are always a high resistance contact and will overheat no matter what. eventually he will learn he has to use andersons.

 

[999zip999]

I have seen some ebikes try and use a 3 prong cord just using two prongs for a connection for the battery to controller. Yes a cheap bad design. Will be a furture problem. As junk connection.

 

[mr.electric]

If you ride with the ac style connectors you already have and the connectors melt it will be clear you need better connectors. Think about the surface area of the connectors' contact area and you can tell if it will handle more current than what you already have.

 

[drsolly]

I have seen some ebikes try and use a 3 prong cord just using two prongs for a connection for the battery to controller. Yes a cheap bad design. Will be a furture problem. As junk connection.

I tried that. One melted/fused at about 40 amps, and I've stopped using them now, except in situations where I know that the current won't exceed 10 amps.