Passion eBike 6 FET Kunteng Controller (S06S)

[SwampDonkey]

So im working on this again. How can I get the controller to switch on? I have an LCD3 display Im trying to connect so Im guessing the "on switch" will be in the display connector?

 

[flangefrog]

Usually you hold down the middle button connected to the display for a few seconds. This effectively shorts the red and blue wires on the display connector. Remember you will need to have the secondary "switch" enabled by shorting those two wires on your controller (I think you said they were blue/green and yellow)

 

[SwampDonkey]

Usually you hold down the middle button connected to the display for a few seconds. This effectively shorts the red and blue wires on the display connector. Remember you will need to have the secondary "switch" enabled by shorting those two wires on your controller (I think you said they were blue/green and yellow)

Right, I have battery voltage coming out of the yellow wires on both cables. Which ones do I need to short? The blue, green, and yellow that goes to the display? The red and blue wires already have continuity with the red coming out of the longer cable (cant remember what that one does, need to look it up).

I went ahead and brought the display over to the bench. The individual wires coming out of the display match the colors of the wires coming out of the controller display cable. Can I just match yellow to yellow, blue to blue, and so on to get the display working?

 

[flangefrog]

Just connect the display to the controller by matching the wire colors, and then short the two wires on the controller like you did before to get the voltage on the regulator output. After everything is connected you can hold down the power button on the display.

 

[SwampDonkey]

Just connect the display to the controller by matching the wire colors, and then short the two wires on the controller like you did before to get the voltage on the regulator output. After everything is connected you can hold down the power button on the display.

I didnt short any wires. I just have battery voltage coming from both yellow wires. The green and blue are attached (already shorted) on the cable Im assuming isnt the display connector. I'll grab a pic for you.

 

[SwampDonkey]

Just connect the display to the controller by matching the wire colors, and then short the two wires on the controller like you did before to get the voltage on the regulator output. After everything is connected you can hold down the power button on the display.

I didnt short any wires. I just have battery voltage coming from both yellow wires. The green and blue are attached (already shorted) on the cable Im assuming isnt the display connector. I'll grab a pic for you.

The cable with the white wire is the one I assume is the display connector.

 

[flangefrog]

It should be the other one - I assume your display doesn't have a white wire?

 

[SwampDonkey]

It should be the other one - I assume your display doesn't have a white wire?

Actually it does. Edit: But its not hooked up inside the display. I took the back panel off to check.

I cant seem to find a pinout like it online. I should say the plug does (6 pin), and its in the center. I shorted the blue/green on that connector (with the white wire) and looked for battery voltage on the (assumed) display connector (without white wire) and there was none. I get battery voltage in the yellow wire on both connectors when grounded to the battery, but the diagrams Ive seen show battery voltage coming from the red and black, as is normal. I dont seem to have a working ground on either cable.

Do all wires need to be hooked up for the display to turn on?

Im trying to make sure it works before doing a bunch of soldering. Any idea on how I can at least get battery voltage out of the display connector?

 

[SwampDonkey]

Ok, I tried both sets of wires. First the set with the white wire, then the other. Screen didnt come on. Both times I shorted the blue/green wires on the opposite set of wires. Nothing. Am I screwed here?

 

[flangefrog]

Im trying to make sure it works before doing a bunch of soldering. Any idea on how I can at least get battery voltage out of the display connector?

I thought you already achieved that back in this post?

Im getting full battery voltage from the red input wire to the black display wire. Im familiar with continuity hunting. I'll track it down and report back. I dont have a pink lead to short to the red. Can you tell which wire is equivalent on mine?

Edit: Red display wire has continuity with the blue and green wires on the other cable. Weird stuff!

Edit 2: It looks like your pink is my thin blue and green. The thin yellow is your thin red located near battery +, and carries battery voltage (49V) when grounded to the battery - in. It also sparked again when I plugged it in, so the caps are working. This thing might be alive after all!

I think you need to go back to the schematic I linked to earlier and work out the pinouts of your specific controller.

 

[docw009]

Hi Swamp Donkey,

Sure isn't clear to me what you're trying to do. The actual Luna controller is pretty straight forward to power up, as it's for a Sondors, but I see pics of two different 6 MOSFET controllers and neither of them look like the 9 MOSFET Luna unit. Then you''re showing a pic of a opened mid drive.

You ought to pick the controller you are working on. Provide pics of all the connectors. SInce you can follow the wires back inside, it won't be very hard for you.

 

[kuririkura]

Hi All,

Sorry to interrupt, just want to ask about this controller.
If it stated rated current 11A and max current 22A.
Should i have battery with 11A or 22A?

Thanks.

By the way some controller dont have 'light' connector. Some have. If you have the one with the light connector. Just press and hold up button on the led/lcd to turn it off/on.. but mine always giving 48v of power so i use a dc - dc converter to lower it down to 12 or 5v

 

[docw009]

Sorry to interrupt, just want to ask about this controller.
If it stated rated current 11A and max current 22A.
Should i have battery with 11A or 22A?

My opinion is that the battery should put more current than the controller requires. You might be in a situation where you really need full power out of your controller. Depends on the battery, but I have seen a half discharged 20A pack shut itself off when I pushed the throttle on a bike with a 25A controller.

In the ebike world, I doubt you could even find a 11A pack, and a 20A pack is considered weak. Most advertise 25A-30A capability and that is what I would recommend.

Don't confuse the rated discharge capability of a pack with the Ah rating. While they go hand in hand, they are not the same units.

 

[kuririkura]

My opinion is that the battery should put more current than the controller requires. You might be in a situation where you really need full power out of your controller. Depends on the battery, but I have seen a half discharged 20A pack shut itself off when I pushed the throttle on a bike with a 25A controller.

In the ebike world, I doubt you could even find a 11A pack, and a 20A pack is considered weak. Most advertise 25A-30A capability and that is what I would recommend.

Don't confuse the rated discharge capability of a pack with the Ah rating. While they go hand in hand, they are not the same units.

Currently I'm using a custom pack 13s4p with 2C
Which give me max discharge at around 20A, which enough for my 500watt controller (11A rated, 20A Max)

But recently I upgrade to 1000 watt controller, which have 20A rated and 40A max

I just want to calculate is my current battery pack is enough, or should i upgrade it to cover the 40A as well?

And I also want to leave some room below the max battery discharge amperage to prolong the battery life

 

[Pegazus]

I understood that on the kunteng controller label :

- rated current was the maximum current coming from the battery. It drives the maximum cruise speed.

- max current was the maximum current coming out the controller. It drives the maximum acceleration especially at low speed and it also called max phase current.

But, it does not correspond on how you use this informations for your battery pack.

If I'm wrong, I would be interesting to know how to get the maximum phase current of a kunteng controller just by looking at the tag !

 

[drunkencat129]

got a kt24 gyc04 6 fet im having problems getting throttle to work im able to get motor to move when i hold down button on lcd but tryed 2 throttles and still cant get it to move if u meter the signal wire unpluged on throttle side controller is got proper voltages when i move throttle but pluged in its fixed at 4.36v and does not change how can i fic this

 

[casainho]

I understood that on the kunteng controller label :

- rated current was the maximum current coming from the battery. It drives the maximum cruise speed.

- max current was the maximum current coming out the controller. It drives the maximum acceleration especially at low speed and it also called max phase current.

But, it does not correspond on how you use this informations for your battery pack.

If I'm wrong, I would be interesting to know how to get the maximum phase current of a kunteng controller just by looking at the tag !

With our OpenSource firmware for KT motor controllers, you can set the max values for each of battery and phase currents.

 

[bithdaycake]

From the aliexpress description, it seems that this connector is for a light switch:

And this one directly powers the light:

But is sounds like you've confirmed this on your own.

Does anyone still have these (broken) images?
Me too, let the smoke out.