FWIW, I found an ebike called a Phasor, with an O, not an E, but I dont' see one with the specs you have called a Phaser, with an E (that brings up little kickscooters and big motorcycles that are nothing like your picture).
If yours is a Phasor with an O, then it was probably made by this member
endless-sphere.com
Accuracy and spelling in discussions like these is very important, because a person seeking help will often get wrong answers based on inaccurate or misspelled information supplied.
One common example we see (besides misspellings like the title /etc of this thread) that hasn't been done in this thread yet AFAICT is using A instead of Ah, W instead of Wh, or other unit-confusion. Different such terms are used for different things, and using the wrong one will mean getting wrong answers that could be just not useful, or could be dangerous to use.
What specifically about the batteries isn't working? They may be repairable, and not require replacement (which will probably be pretty expensive).
If they're not repairable, then finding replacements of any quality is likely to require something custom-made to the measurements of the originals so that they fit within the available space, and have the right connector(s) with the right cable length coming from the right place on the battery, both for the charge and discharge connectors if they are separate and/or different.
If you don't want custom-made, and are willing to go with prebuilt packs of potentially unknown quality, there are quite a few battery manufacturers out there, but you will still need the pack measurements, and be able to tell them which connector(s) to use on it to match the ones on the bike (or else you'd have to change the bike's connectors, or make or have made an adapter or set of them), and the cable info to match as well.
I found an archive of the manufacturer site here
Phasor Cycles Custom Mountain Bikes
web.archive.org
but they appear to have custom-built options, so there's no way for me to tell what parts came on yours to ensure you get a battery that can handle the load the system will put on it, unless you can post what controller battery current limit yours has.
Barring that, then we would assume the 110A your battery is marked at is a continuous limit, and that any replacment must also be able to do this, at 24s (90v average, which is typically about 100V full, and runs down to about 80v empty) and be at least 13Ah as marked on the picture you posted, or the 19Ah you stated in the first post (you'll need to state which one you require, along with the measurements, etc, for us to help you find one to match). Do you want it to also be NMC?