Phoenix Hub Motor Color Codes?

[rsisson]

First Ride and I snap a connector...

From the Phoenix Hub motor to the 5 pin Mini connector... what is the color code... When the support snapped, everything else was a push connector, that was was a "locking" connector.... Ouch...

I will try to just line up the color code..but it would be nice to know...

 

[xyster]

If it's like mine, there's little numbers on both sides of the connector, next to the connector pins. The wires are also color coded, so you can pull the connector and replace with a different type, or just solder the little wires together.

 

[Ypedal]

Red, Black, Yellow , Green, Blue.

color on color.

 

[rsisson]

My colors don't match controller to Hub

Controller ....Hub
Wires..........Wires
Red.............Red
Blk..............Blk
Blue.............Blue
Brown..........Green
White............Yellow

Uhm.... What goes to what ?

I don't want to assume something... would someone look at theirs and let me know please...

I need the HUB side, that is the side that pulled out of the connector...

Bob

 

[fechter]

What kind of controller is that?

Usually the colors would match on both sides.

 

[rsisson]

Crystalyte 4840...

I know, I expected the wires to be the same "through the connector" and was quite surprised when I opened the other side....

 

[xyster]

Something must have been wired incorrectly coming out of the factory. Since the motor and controller is manufactured separately, and only put together by the end user later, it seems fair to assume that the mismatch isn't a corrective measure to re-match a mismatched sensor array. And that your motor therefore probably wasn't going to fire on all cylinders, so to speak.

Except for the fact I don't know if wiring the two hall sensor power leads wrong can damage anything, I'd first try matching the colors to see what happens; then if that doesn't work, try each combination until I found the correct one. Fechter...anybody?

 

[fechter]

If you hook it up wrong, you could blow something up if you hit full throttle. Best approach for doing trial-and-error wiring is to have some kind of current limiter around 2 amps and a way to measure current. If you put something like a car headlight(s) in series with the battery, it will light up or burn out before your FETs do. Test with the wheel off the ground. If the current goes high when you give throttle, back off immediately. When you get it right, the motor will start by itself from any position and the full throttle current will be around 2 amps.

Plan B would be to open up the controller and see where the hall sensor wires go into the circuit board. We know which one is which at that point, and you could see what color wire goes into the connector. See the pic below. The colors on the hall connector match the motor.

Is it possible the hall sensor wire was extended or spliced at some point?

 

[rsisson]

Bob,

You are actually correct the way you have it below. I guess they changed the wire colors on us for the improved controllers. The controller I looked at does not have a white wire, it is yellow. Maybe yours is stretched or miscolored? By process of elimination, it should go to the yellow anyway. Hope that helps get you back up again.

Thanks,
Mike

-----Original Message-----

My battery tray cracked and when the batteries fell they took out the Hall-Effect wire at the connector.

The HUB side pulled out. the controller side is fine.

I was going to just match colors Hub-controller, but they don't match.

My colors don't match controller to Hub
4840 Phoenix Racer
Controller ....Hub
Wires..........Wires

Red.............Red
Blk..............Blk
Blue.............Blue
Brown..........Green
White............Yellow


I am posting the answer so it on file for the next poor sole....

Now to go scorch my fingers and strain my eyes.