Pinout of 8P (Pin) Julet Connector on T-06S (KT36/48SVPR-GLT2F 1 or KTE 6S3-D3C Controller) from TopBikeKit

[SuperHans]

Hello everyone,

I'm trying to cut-out the 8P (Pin) Julet Connector of a T-06S KT-controller and connect display (LCD5) and throttle directly to the board. It's part on a project to design an integrated and very user-friendly controller/display unit. Looking at the board, I cannot make any sense out of the labels next to the pins on the board (neither do they correspond with the schematic of the board that's been floating around). So in order to get an idea I thought about tracing these down - if I would know the pin labels from 1 - 8 of the Julet Connector?! Does that make sense to you?

If anyone could help me on that, either by having a schematic that somehow corresponds to the pin labels OR by letting me know the wires of the 8P Julet Connector I'd be super happy : ) Any other idea to figure this out is also highly appreciated.

Alternatively I can think of getting the JST SM-connector version of the controller and replace the motor/hall sensor wires with JST connectors to the 9-pin julet that's on my AKM motors... Why, you might ask?! Again for making it as most user friendly : )

Last but not least: does someone maybe have a clue where I could buy the controllers without cables?! That would be super helpful too : )

Hope this all is not to confusing?
I'm very much looking forward to hearing from you!

Have a great weekend,
Hannes

 

[fill]

depending on what 1toX cable is intended to connect the throttle/display etc this thread discusses 1to2 and 1to4 cable configs..

 

[amberwolf]

If the above isn't it, perhaps this page's diagram might be

Higo wiring harness EBUS-4 for KT controller Higo/Julet

The wiring harness ends with Higo waterproof connectors

nexun.pl

 

[SuperHans]

Amazing, that helps a lot! You guys are so helpful : ) I wonder on this forum ever considered alternative wiring of KT controllers? As written above I feel like the way it is now it's not the most usable design I can think of and fancy trying something different. The most elegant way to do so would be to work on a PCB with components but no wires attached... A first alibaba research did not give me any results. Before I dig deeper and jump into conversations with Chinese manufacturers: do you guys know a source where to get more or less the populated PCB only? Thanks and best regards, Hannes

 

[fill]

Virtually every ad i have browsed over for ebike controllers inc KT (Ketung) brand offers the julet waterproof connector option Or the more usual automotive style bullet and smt? type plugs

 

[amberwolf]

I wonder on this forum ever considered alternative wiring of KT controllers? As written above I feel like the way it is now it's not the most usable design I can think of and fancy trying something different.

What specific requirements do you have that won't work with the existing connection schemes?

What "different" design do you want to use instead?

 

[fill]

I too am not quite understanding what you want?

You have little option but to connect the motor to the phase and hall sensor controller connections in a working configuration.

The display while almost optional is required if anything other than out of the box-no pas-no limits - throttle only speed control operation is desired.

Pas input is optional, as is brake cut off sensors (although a Very good idea still) and any lighting output is best used with very low power demanding fittings.

Any additional features you want to add are best powered directly from the battery and NOT via the control system.
For example to intergrade an after market alarm with motor cut off you can share a common ground and use the brake cut off input to cut off motor assistance when required. But dint draw the alarm power from the controller circuitry.
The 5v logic psu is sufficient to power the controller logic system and connected sensors, adding extra components to this load is not a good idea. If you need a 5v or 12v supply for lights or alarms or ?? a dc to dc step down voltage regulator is an easy thing to source.

 

[SuperHans]

Ooops - sorry for the confusion. It's actually way simpler than that. As said I'm trying to build a super basic controller/display unit that has only the display directly (soldered) connected to the controller, Motor via Julet and Throttle via 3P Julet (NO light, PAS, brakes, etc... ). So before unsoldering I thought about getting bare controllers and do the wiring myself. Does that make sense?!

 

[fill]

Ooops - sorry for the confusion. It's actually way simpler than that. As said I'm trying to build a super basic controller/display unit that has only the display directly (soldered) connected to the controller, Motor via Julet and Throttle via 3P Julet (NO light, PAS, brakes, etc... ). So before unsoldering I thought about getting bare controllers and do the wiring myself. Does that make sense?!

I dont want to be too critical, but Well.. no tbh, it is not making much sense...

But you do you..

It will be a pita when you need to replace a damaged or failing display or throttle.. plugs/sockets are very convenient. granted the extra flex bundling and stashing is a pita but a minor one.

It wont be a legal pedelec for use in Berlin without pas motor assistance? , so depending on local police? it may be at risk of getting seized on sight? Again depending on local laws if evident its been diy'd And is uninsured etc stiffer penalties could be applied due to intent, so no 'it was like that when i bought it' excuse.. Eyes wide open..
*I am not qualified to comment on legal matters btw.. hardly qualified to comment on anything but least of all legal matters

So I shall continue commenting...
Also most importantly I would fit at least one brake cut off sensor if using a throttle, throttles can stick even those without steel cables, and situations can arise quickly and some reactions such as clutching a brake lever can be way more instinctive than untwisting a throttle. They are Very cheap and easy to fit, and the stick under the lever type intended for hydraulic lever mods can be applied to top shelf brake levers if fitted so no need to swap out for the cheaper levers if you dont want to.

 

[amberwolf]

Ooops - sorry for the confusion. It's actually way simpler than that. As said I'm trying to build a super basic controller/display unit that has only the display directly (soldered) connected to the controller, Motor via Julet and Throttle via 3P Julet (NO light, PAS, brakes, etc... ). So before unsoldering I thought about getting bare controllers and do the wiring myself. Does that make sense?!

Yes. There are a number of people that have slimmed down the interocnnects in one way or another over the years. Most just cut off the extra wires at the PCB (or the controller housing) as that is uncomplicated.


Normally these people do this because they have had repeated connector problems, or they have a space to fit things in that wont' work with all the extra wires theyr'e not using, or they don't want all the extra wire length, etc.

Just curious: Is there a specific reason you're doing this? Or just a "whim"?

(I have a lot of stuff I've tried just because I could, not all of which was a good idea, and not all of which worked as planned).



I don't know any specific place to get bare controllers, but the factory would be the only reliable source. Almost certainly you'd need to buy thousands of them to get anything from a factory, unless they are on alibaba and offer "samples" of a few at a time.


Since you want to remove all the cabling and install your own, the surest way to do this is connect the things you want to with the existing connectors, open up the casings, and measure all the continuities from PCB to PCB, drawing this all up in your own diagram. Then you are not depending on board markings, or connector diagrams that might be wrong for your specific hardware (because there are no completely-honored standards).

Then just verify each wire per your diagram as you disconnect each wire, since you might have some things that show continuity but are just on the same bus, not actually the same wire/function.