"Plus sized tires", 2.8-3.2 inch wide

spinningmagnets

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Also called "mid fat" and semi fat" in the media.

I have been noticing tires that are around 3.0-inches wide, mostly in 27.5 and 29'r wheels, but...if they catch on you will be able to find them in more places and more sizes of wheel (20, 24, 26-inch?). I really like these a lot. I am mostly interested in street tires, but the best selection right now seems to be for off-road (I found one beach cruiser tire so far)

An example that I have seen in several articles is that...if you own a 29'r frame, then: a 27.5 wheel with a 3.2 tire is the same height as a 29 X 2.2 tire. This way you get "some" of the benefits of a 4.0 fat tire, with less of "some" of the drawbacks.

Here an article with more info:

http://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/mountain-bike-tires/plus-size-tire-primer

The pic below is a 2.8 tire on a 50mm wide rim. There is almost no side bulge, so it would have worked on a narrower rim. My readings have found recommendations of rims between 35mm and 50mm, for the spread of 2.8 to 3.2-inch tires.

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I used to use Kenda Kraze 26 x 3.0" street slicks on my MTB.
kenda-kraze-tire.jpg


I really like them; might even have stuck with them if they had remained available. They have a much thinner and more supple casing than most tires in the same size range.

I switched to Origin 8 Captiv8r 26 x 3.5" when they became available to me. They are almost, but not quite, too big for my custom proto-fatbike built starting in 2000.

I've built up a couple of Surly ECRs at my shop. They're equipped with 29 x 3.0" knobbies, and they are surprisingly fast. I reckon as soon as there are 29 x 3.0" street tires available, I'll build myself a bike that can use them.
 
I've been runningKenda tires (K838 slick )and have been thrilledwiththe ride and durability. 4 tires for the price of 1 1/2 Schwalbe I only wish there was a larger version. The discontinued might have been perfect. Great value for my rides.
 
More rubber does make a better ride. Wider rim does make a tire bigger and needing lower PSI, that is good for traction and puncture resistance. Of course the rim should not be wider than the tire, but it can come close to the tire width for street riding. Off road, we need the tire width to exceed the rim, by a third at least.

I try to use as much tire width as the frame will allow, sometimes keeping only 0.25" clearance for street bikes.
 
Off road, we need the tire width to exceed the rim, by a third at least

I always assumed this was to "get away with" using the lightest possible rim, and a slightly wider/slightly heavier rim was acceptable for an E-bike street commuter (where shaving every possible gram wasnt an issue, and more strength is preferred). Are there performance issues off-road with a wider rim? Pinch-flatting? Dented rims?
 
spinningmagnets said:
Off road, we need the tire width to exceed the rim, by a third at least

I always assumed this was to "get away with" using the lightest possible rim, and a slightly wider/slightly heavier rim was acceptable for an E-bike street commuter (where shaving every possible gram wasnt an issue, and more strength is preferred). Are there performance issues off-road with a wider rim? Pinch-flatting? Dented rims?
Not a matter of weight, there are 1.5" rims that are heavy, and 2.5" that are light, this is another issue. The hits a tire endures riding the mountain trails, does require optimal tire action. I mean the tire has to be able to reach enough hardness under compression, and too wide of a rim does not let the tire do that unless it is inflated far above the adequate traction requirements.

You see, there is a compromise to find between tire action and traction, that can be tuned by rim width and tire size. Street application can sacrifice some tire action for extra grip, thus a wider rim does improve perfeormance. In the mountain, we can't ride too much rim width, and need thicker rubber ideally, to survive the terrain. My street wheels are lighter and wider than my dirt wheels.
 
For many bikes, (mtb) this big a tire could be a problem fitting the frame. I have found the older frames in particular have a very hard time with a 2.5" rear tire. I love a 2.5 in back, because there are soft spots on all the local singletrack, arroyo (dry wash) crossings or just sandy areas. Some times I've had to shave some knobs, because of fat spots on a tire making them rub the frame.

Would love to see frames wide enough for 3" rear tires become the standard in MTB's, including the huge knobs. I was not particularly impressed with fat bikes at Interbike. This may be because my preference is for the front tire to be only a 2.3 or so. They all seemed to steer very heavy to me.

But I was not demoing those fat bikes at a beach or ski area, where they belong.
 
All that Sonder talk got me to build a fat bike last winter with the intent to MAC12t it.
I put the bike together and rode it, just pedaling.
Was impossible to get the tire to ride on the rim correctly, it would bulge more one way than the other, seated on the rim fine, not sure if the tires are just junk or what. Vee Rubber Mission 26x4.
I kept kicking the front tire in turns.
(As i am 5'7", i seem to fit the small frames out now, back 20+ years ago it seemed like i fit the medium frames.)
It would just spin out the rear on slight inclines and i would have to push.
You get fairly soaked from all the snow flying off those huge tires.
Not my cup of tea.

I like tire 2.3"-3" myself, for the conditions I ride, mostly loose sandy soil, if it can even be called soil.
The 26x2.3" Ground Control I run now (DX32 rim) 2 1/4" wide, works fairly well but a tad more flotation would be nice.
Ground Control 2.3 and Alex DX32.JPG

Specialized is coming out with a new Ground Control tire that look tasty.
650b+3.0, I saw a setup at a local bike shop, got me salivating. They are not out yet, unless you buy the Specialized bike with them.
Did find some...
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/purgatory-control-650b-275-x-30-2bliss-ready-mtb-tyre-ec120774
For the price and the fact i allready have the tires and rims.
My next machine, 29er, will have 26x3 Duro tires on it, hopefully.
 
Paladin said:
650b+3.0, I saw a setup at a local bike shop, got me salivating.

Don't salivate yet; they have the same toe overlap problems for shorter riders as a fatbike.
 
If you're not tall, why mess around with extra tall tires? And if 26" seems needlessly small, why not 29"? They're only 10% different in size, after all.

650b is a cynical ploy to make people buy a third MTB that doesn't do anything better than their other two. If you buy such things, it just encourages them. Don't do it.
 
I hear you Chalo, trendy is not my thing.
However.
I like forward progression of ideas.
I like 3 inch wide tires.
I like the Ground Control tires.
I ride in loose sandy like dirt so I want more flotation.
Not a lot of 3.0 tire available and the 650b+x3.0 ground control looks perfect for my particular riding terrain.
Have a set of 26x3 duros to kick and a set of 24x3 contras, I will play with before/if I go 650b+

sorry if this is not on topic spinningmagnets.
 
what's the widest tire I should run on a 26" 1.5" rim? Preferably something dual sport, can be taken on trails but will still corner well on the street.
 
Wow, Chalo you all way seem to suck the steam out of...well most things

I trust the readers. If someones statement can have any of its "steam" bled off by a simple statement by someone else, then...maybe it deserved to lose a little steam. I occasionally disagree with Chalo, but I have also learned a great deal from his input. Then again, who's to say I am right all the time? Its not good for a chat forum to become an echo chamber, where only approved doctrine is allowed to be posted.

The really great thing about a bicycle forum is that: bikes are so affordable, any statement made about them can typically be tested fairly rapidly and cheaply. LFP was breaking thick spokes, Chalo was very persistent in advocating for a thinner spoke. Luke tried it and it worked, and it did this on a very high-powered build. Counter-intuitive, but I can't argue with the results.
 
The increasing sizes in tires is great news for us. Fat tires are what we want for better, safer rides.

Last time I did the math for using moped tires and wheels the setup ended up weighing more than the bike sans electric drive train.

Bicycle components are much lighter.
 
Here is a Duro 26x3 tire on an Alex DX32 and a Origin8 65(26x4").
 

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  • Duro 26x3  OR8 26x4 DATpro65.JPG
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Chalo said:
650b is a cynical ploy to make people buy a third MTB that doesn't do anything better than their other two. If you buy such things, it just encourages them. Don't do it.

NB: Chalo, i am sure you know that 650B standard was the main stream size almost a century ago on "hiking" bicycles(cyclotouring), which some believe to be an indication of mountainbiking being at first a french invention...

Actually i think it's much older standard than the imperial units standard.
1937:
301187781351
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HELYETT-650B-1937-vintage-French-bicycle-full-restored-/301187781351?roken=cUgayN
 
Any "plus sized" tires in 20" size?
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
Any "plus sized" tires in 20" size?

http://www.choppersus.com/store/product/843/Tire-20-x-3-Road-Hog-Whitewall/

There are far more 20 x 4.25" tires than anybody needs, thanks to the wretched 2000s era Schwinn Stingray OCC chopper and other me-too bikes from that time.

20 x 2.4" is a relatively common size for quality BMX freestyle tires these days.
 
Thanks guys. I just put those 20" 2.4 belted tires on the back tire and the ride has improved a good bit. The suspension on my trike is really stiff, and I do like a softer ride. I'm working on this problem.
otherDoc
 
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