Possibly considering upgrading one of my bike's controllers

[SteveandBebe]

This is the controller I'm considering up grading to is a ND7235 but I have many questions first. I would be replacing the factory 28 amp controller with this 35 amp controller. Not a huge jump but should make a decent power gain I would think. My bike has two controllers though since it has two 1,000W motors. I don't see much need to change the front controller though. Will this work or am I opening a huge can of worms here? Would other changes be mandatory or is just changing this all I would need to do? Would my M5 display still work? I have 1,000W geared hub motors is this compatable? There are likely other questions I should ask but I don't know what they are as I am new to E-bikes! I'm guessing I will have to adapt some if not all of the wiring / plugs... What kind of power gain should I expect?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/166874404634?

This is the bike I have.

Ridstar E26PRO 48V 2000W 26''Fat Tire Electric Bike 23Ah Removable Battery eBike | eBay

if it ain't broken don't fix it. Just replace things as needed. It's a real bad idea to dive into the guts of the thing if you're new to ebikes. Just enjoy riding and be grateful that you have the disposable income necessary for this hobby. Not exactly a thing misers like to do.

 

[slaphappygamer]

With the amps up I don't feel a lot of change but with the power level 1-5 on 5 the rear tire spins out anytime I'm in less than perfect conditions even in PAS 1 no throttle.

Maybe better tires would be a good option. With your tire slipping, you are losing traction and in turn, power. I put a Ridstar together, for a friend, and the sidewall of the tires are pretty thin and flimsy. The tread is more for smooth pavement, which in our county are about 15% of roads. Lots of loose gravel here too. Probably going to change those tires in the near future.

 

[lnanek]

Grin has a motor simulator you can use to figure out what performance will be at 35A vs. 28A. A programmable/learning capable controller can run most brushless motor hubs that expose wires for the windings. This is almost anything but hubs that have built in controllers like Bionx and iMortor.

Typically increasing amps like that will help torque, but but not unloaded top speed. That's determined by the KV rating of the motor and the voltage of your battery (RPM per volt).

Typically if you replace the controller, you also have to replace the display. They aren't generally compatible with each other unless they are sold as a pair. The pin out for the display typically has receive and send wires, rx and tx, that involve a different protocol for different models (and even the same model sold by a different company can have a different protocol programmed).