Problem with BMC hub motor

Rob928

10 µW
Joined
Jul 25, 2009
Messages
5
Hey everyone I have been lurking around here for the last year doing research and learning but just signed up. I am having the following problem with my motor and was hoping maybe someone has some suggestions on things I could check...

The problem I am having seems to have started when I had let someone else ride my bike, they had try to do a break stand (hold front brake while stopped and give throttle till rear wheel spins)..After doing so nothing worked. I took apart the controller and found 2 blown fets, after replacing the fets everything seemed ok for a short while until they blew again. I believe there was something else in the circuit that was bad causing the fets to go....

I ended up replacing the controller (crystalyte 40a analog) and now there is a strange problem...........

When I give throttle nothing happens, when I spin the wheel backwards there is resistance and as i spin the wheel controller will make a sort of beeping sound, if I stop the wheel on a higher pitch beep I can give throttle and the wheel will start to turn then stop. At some points the wheel will actually continue to spin and rev up for a few second then suddenly die. Kinda seems like a hall sensor problem but they don't seem to check bad.?

I have probably ~500 miles on this setup and everything was working perfectly until this :(
Any suggestions?

My setup is as follows
2006 Kona Coiler Deluxe
59V Nominal 10AH Lipo
BMC V2 Torque
40A Crystalyte Analog Controller

Thanks in advance for any advice!
Rob.
 
the hall throttle connector on the BMC is physically the same as the one on the crystalyte controller. but the pinout is different. it needs to be rewired to match. in other words. physically they fit together, but the wires go to different places so some are crossed.

the phase wires are the same colors. but guess what they also don't match and also have to be wired in a different order.

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6241&p=144093&hilit=bmc#p144093

this is from the Known To Work Motor/Controller wiring thread.

last thing is it the Analog V1 controller or the newer Digital controller? the newer digital Crystalyte has an upper RPM limit and will not allow the geared BMC to run full speed.

rick
 
The throttle Is wired to the new controller the same as the one that was replaced. I don't think it is the throttle because if the wheel is in a certain position when you turn the throttle the wheel will spin then suddenly stop. Also the Phase wires are connected the same as previous controller. The new controller is the same as the old one. (crystalyte 40A Analog)..
I purchased the setup through Hi-Power cycles and they change the wiring at the motor to match the crystalyte controller...
 
what you describe sounds like a Hall Sensor problem of some kind. that would be the little 5 wire connector going to the motor. are any of the little pins pushed in so there is a poor contact?

rick
 
Nope. All connections and wiring configuration seem to be fine at Hall sensor connector. Any more thoughts?

Rob.
 
Time to look for melted stuff inside the motor I suppose. And of course, never let anybody ride your good bike. :roll:
 
Take an afternoon and check every one of the 36 different combinations http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=3484- use a 5 amp fuse and wire a light bulb up in between the battery and controller so you don't fry the controller.
 
i don't think that is needed. as i understand it he is using a wiring color that was working before. he just has not established that the hall sensors work properly like rick recommended.

can you measure the voltage of each hall sensor on the backside of the controller side of the plug when you rotate the tire slowly?
 
It sounds for all the world like a bad Hall sensor in the motor since the problem is altered dependent on the position of the wheel.
 
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