Problem with the ping battery.

[cana77]

Yeah i did email him just waiting for his reply.
I am going to try to hook up a small light to the battery and drain those cells that are to high and then plug in the charger again. to drain it i would place the negative wire on negative pin and the postive wire on the postive pin the same way i checked the cell voltage correct?
thanks for your help I do have a multimeter thats what i used to check the cell voltage.
sorry about not understanding the resistor stuff. I am looking for help diagrams on the net to try to figure it out.
could u link online to what the cell charger looks like so i can get an idea of what i need. the cell charger i have just goes from usb to micro usb.

 

[dnmun]

i explained several times where to hook them up. you want to drain down entire sections of the battery that are overcharged not one by one. i never said anything like what you asked. you have one cell that is low so if you can charge it up with a single cell charger then do that like they said or else drain down the high ones like i said. but if you use a single cell charger it would help to connect directly to the cell but it is still wrapped up.

if you stick a small wire into the end of the sense wire plug so that the wire goes into the hole in the sense wire plug and makes contact with the cell that way then you could drain it that way. for the single cell charger you would connect the top of #10 on one plug and the top of #11 on the other plug, with the positive of the single cell charger on the top of #11.

you have to use a big resistor though since the 9 cells from #12-20 would be about 32V and into a big power resistor like about 60 ohms then that would be 1/2 amp, I^2 X R = power so 1/2 squared times 60 is 15 watts. so buy a 60 ohm power resistor of 15W. buy some jumpers at harbor freight or wherever so you can connect to whatever you end up sticking into the plug to make the connection. just don't damage the clip inside the plug or it won't clamp on the pin of the BMS later.

if you could short the gate to the source on the shunt transistor to see if it will turn off then it won't drain that cell more too. but it may be shorted so it will not ever turn off.

i already fixed a few of these.

 

[dogman dan]

Nobody else seems to have noticed that he's trying to run a 35 amp controller and a 5304 on 20 ah of ping.

I'd call that doomed to begin with. Good luck fixing your problem, but that's just a watt hog motor killing your ping.

 

[cana77]

Hi dnmun, thanks for your reply sorry im not sure how to do what you said sorry. maybe i could get someone else to look at it.

 

[knighty]

if cell 11 is dead, then your battery is dead

if cell 11 is ok, then you need to get a new bms (because fixing it is tricky)



if I were you, I'd just get a new bms from ping, fit that, charge the pack up and then see what happens



if cell 11 is dead, you've lost $50 on a new bms you didn't need

if cell 11 is ok, then you've spend $50 and saved a battery pack costing hundreds



don't want to be cheeky, but if you're not good with small electronics then fixing the bms is probably not something you'll be able to do

 

[dnmun]

it may be that he cannot repair the BMS, but it can be done, and i have parts and have done it several times already.

i explained how it happened because i already had to solve this problem.

also if the cell is dead, which we still don't know, then he could just hack the pack to 19S and use it that way.

but first he has to get the pack charged up.

 

[cana77]

thanks for your help guys yes i cant fix bms myself
I am waiting for another reply from ping

 

[Jason27]

How long have you had the battery for cana? How many charges have you done?

 

[dnmun]

thanks for your help guys yes i cant fix bms myself
I am waiting for another reply from ping

so your battery is just sitting there with the led of #11 still burning away? i assume the others drained down and turned off if you took it off the charger. let us know if the #11 led ever turns off. or you can try to turn it off by shorting the gate to the source on the shunt transistor.

 

[cana77]

I have had the battery about 2 years, I havnt used it that much i might have done 75 charges on it.
I unplugged the black sensor wires because #11 led was not turning off.

 

[kentlim26]

A RC charger can charge Lifepo4 cells individually, and I think it helps. and If you like power and less complication on cells problems like BMS or a cells fail in the middle of the pack , so you have to take Out and changed one. The bms protects the cells voltage to cut off when is low. but it also harms the cells too. the bms need current to work, so end up the first few cells always in lower power., and other cells is 3.65v and first few is 3.3v.

try lipo cells, I don't use a bMs. and If there is any pack from the Lipo fails, you can Just change them easily. If I can turn back the clock to the starting days for my ebike,. My first choice will be Lipo 20c. 35amps controller or 45amps controller 48v ~ 90v , lipo cells 20c still can take it.

 

[dnmun]

BMS did not fail here. it just ended up damaged when the two sections got disconnected. the first 4 were low because it sat uncharged and the circuit current drained them down.

when the led is on then it is leaking current from that cell so if it had been like that all winter then i figured it had drained to 0V but the mosfet may not conduct when the voltage drops below 2V/cell so that may have protected the cell.

ping can sell him a single cell charger along with the new BMS so he can push that cell back up. if it is dead he could buy a replacement cell from ping but that requires soldering and other repair type work so it might be easiest if that cell is totally dead to just bypass it and go to 19S with the current BMS and charger.

it would be easy to replace though since it is on the end.

so knowing all this before buying the new BMS from ping would save on the shipping costs if it was all shipped together. imo

 

[cana77]

could you give me a link to a low cost rc charger so i could try to get the charge up on it?
Maybe I dont have the right combo of controller and motor for the battery. Before when it was working after a full charge on the battery i would start the bike with the key switch and turn on the controller and push on the throttle the bike then usually the bike just stopped right after, to correct i would have to wait a bit then restart it and go really light on the throttle so the bike wouldnt stop.
before I purchased it I asked if the controller and motor and battery were a good fit and ppl on the forum said yes and even ping said it was fine. If I can get the battery working again maybe i should replace the motor with a less powerfull one. The motor is too heavy anyways.
Thanks

 

[wesnewell]

I doubt they said it was a good fit. More likely they said it would work. To get the most out of the 5304 motor, you need a 60-80A controller with an 88.8V battery capable of an 80A minimum output. Your battery matches your controller fine, but neither will provide the current to take advantage of your motor.

 

[knighty]

^^^

but that shouldn't cause any damage to the battery or the bms


just means the motor has an easy life

 

[cana77]

ok just as long as its safe for the battery to use and the controller i dont push the motor hard. If anyone is willing to trade for a smaller motor thats fine too. I want to save some weight.

 

[dnmun]

the motor had nothing to do with the damage to the BMS. i tried to explain how the BMS was damaged. this is very common because so many people use disconnects on the wire from each sub pack. when the wire is open all the current goes through the BMS transistors.

 

[wesnewell]

ok just as long as its safe for the battery to use and the controller i dont push the motor hard. If anyone is willing to trade for a smaller motor thats fine too. I want to save some weight.

You won't save more than a few pounds. I"d love to have that motor since I'm running 100V charged pack, but I've got mine mounted in new wide rim and the hassle wouldn't be worth it to me. And it wouldn't be a good deal for you either. One of these days you may want a lot more power and speed and that motor can take it.

 

[kentlim26]

if the controller can really draws Huge current and if that Pings battery cannot support the draw. the BMS will shut off By itself , even if they are Just fully charged. i have this been tested for my headways 16cells + 48v pack on a test free wheel running on a 60v huatong controller. the controller will shut OFF by itself . for a common hub motor 48v 1000w weight is around 7.6 kg , and I ever carrry a x5304 many times and I think weight are very similar. The RC charger I will recommend you will be NOT the Accu cell 6, I will recommend right now is ECO 6- 10 . I had purchase this from Hobbyking ECO 6- 10 after my Accucell 6 had fail very quickly, now only 1 is working. if this fail again, Never mind, i will Buy another ECO 6- 10.

don't sell your x5304 hub motor, it is wonderful motor !..

so if your battery cannot support the draw current for the controller. It will sure trip and cut off BMS in the middle of your ebike riding.

 

[knighty]

his controller is only 35amps, so no worries about pulling too much from his 20ah battery

 

[kentlim26]

thanks , I agree. I do have 30amps controller ( those days i pack this with vpower 20amps 48v. run about many months )

 

[cana77]

I have the single cell charger with the two banna plug connectors. How do I use it to charge the 11th cell? Thanks

 

[chvidgov.bc.ca]

I think the way to charge that one cell group is to find the two adjacent pins on the white balance connector (after that has been disconnected from the bms) that between them have the voltage reading of the low one. That means you've "hooked in" to the low cell. If you push those pins carefully out of the balance connector, you can hook your charger up to them to charge the cell. Make sure you have the right polarity, as indicated with a multimeter. Charge it up and re-insert the two pins into the balance connector. That's it, as far as I know. Oh yes...change the banana plugs out for some small alligator clips. I routinely charge single cells in my Headway pack "in situ" this way, although I generally clip the charger directly to the terminals of the one cell. The balance pins accomplish the same thing.