Puncture proof tires

kennya

1 mW
Joined
Apr 8, 2009
Messages
11
I don't know how good they would be but they look interesting. Has anybody tried these yet?

http://www.nu-teck.com/product.html
 
hopefully someone will try these out and see how good they are. I've researched these before and most of the people who used these have not liked them and said that at any speed over 20 mph, the bike wobbled around like rubber. I've read good things about the Armadillo Crossroads if you want a good tire that is almost puncture proof.
 
Zoot katz, Why a reply like that for just asking a Question? Thanks to the ones who did reply without jumping to conclusions first. Most my riding is off road and gravel and flats are becoming a common thing. I got my first e-bike early spring and regular tires has not held up. Being airless these tires caught my attention but also sound to good to be true so i wanted some feedback if anybody had tried them. I will check out some others mentioned. Any other suggestions would be welcomed.

Thank,s again,
Ken
 
kennya said:
Zoot katz, Why a reply like that for just asking a Question? Thanks to the ones who did reply without jumping to conclusions first. Most my riding is off road and gravel and flats are becoming a common thing. I got my first e-bike early spring and regular tires has not held up. Being airless these tires caught my attention but also sound to good to be true so i wanted some feedback if anybody had tried them. I will check out some others mentioned. Any other suggestions would be welcomed.

Thank,s again,
Ken

Then I apologise and retract what I said.
Many new names pop up with the express purpose of getting hits to their websites.
Most of them you never see again.
Again, I'm sorry for the rude welcome.

Myself, I've run Schwalbe Marathon Plus and Schwalbe Big Apple. The Big Apples are comfy and they both have puncture resistant construction.
I also use heavy duty inner tubes.

Here's a few links to where air less tires have been discussed:
Bikeforums.net

I think this one sums it up:
"I investigated solid tyres and was advised by a top bike mechanic that they wear out your hub
bearings really quickly. They dont feel right on the road either is another complaint. Cornering
is not the same as a normal tyre and grip is reduced. Lets face it. If they were any good we
would all be using them."
 
You might also read this thread here on ES:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12510&start=0&hilit=airless
for some varied opinions on the basic "solid tire" approach.
My own post there:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=186389#p186389
lists some specific problems you might encounter with them.
 
Zoot Katz, Thanks and i understand. I joined this site after i got my bike but i haven't posted much. I will check out everything you guys have posted.

Thanks again.
 
I have a 700c tire and rim from http://www.airfreetires.com/ for sale, very cheap. Actually, if you will pay the shipping, it is yours. It is just taking up space in my shed. I have no intention of ever using it again.

I am positive that these people are actually funded by dentists. After riding on this thing, your teeth will be destroyed! It felt as though I was riding on concrete, not solid rubber.
 
Run a tubeless setup with tire sealant.

Either buy a tubeless rim (expensive) or convert your rims to tubeless using the Stan's no tubes kit.

I've converted a set of Mavic 117 to tubeless and it works well, I'm currently using Mavic Crossmax SL rims which are tubeless and to be perfectly honest, the conversion worked just as well.

The Stans sealant does a great job of plugging any holes you get, I once got about 20 holes from riding through a grassed area and after a bit of hissing from the tires as I removed the thorns, the sealant blocked the holes straight away. I just topped up some air and was on my way again. The sealant weights a bit less than the tube that you no longer have to use, so the weight of the sealant isn't an issue.
 
Zoot Katz said:
Myself, I've run Schwalbe Marathon Plus and Schwalbe Big Apple. The Big Apples are comfy and they both have puncture resistant construction.
I also use heavy duty inner tubes.

Ditto that, Zoot Katz. My Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires are bomb-proof and they're worth every penny (shop around on the net and you can find them for just under forty-bucks each). They're a real bitch to put on, though. Get ready for a battle with your tire horns.
 
I think i will try the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires and see how they do. I have about a month or two of riding left if the weather holds up. I will give a feedback on them to let you know how they preform for me.

Ken
 
+1 for the Schwalbe Big Apples. I'm running the larger 2.35" wide variety on mine and it makes rougher roads somewhat tolerable on a rigid frame bike. I'm also using heavy duty thorn resistant tubes. So far no problems but I only have a few hundred miles on my setup so far. Keeping my fingers crossed.
 
I can't help but think of a doorless windowless robbery proof home when I think of these tires.. the pneumaticness of the tire is what makes it work like a tire does, no?
 
nutsandvolts said:
I also picked up Lambert self sealing tubes that have a sealant inside, but they have the small valves. They sold me a little adapter that is supposed to convert to the regular size but I can't understand how to make this work. Does anyone know: am I supposed to install a regular size valve in this kind of adapter? And why on earth do we need two different tire valve sizes?

The "small" valves are presta valves. There are two kinds of adapters available, one to make the presta valve fit in a rim with a hole drilled for a schrader and another to allow using a schrader pump to inflate a presta valve.

adapters 002.jpg


adapters 003.jpg





-R
 
nutsandvolts said:
I also picked up Lambert self sealing tubes that have a sealant inside, but they have the small valves. They sold me a little adapter that is supposed to convert to the regular size but I can't understand how to make this work. Does anyone know: am I supposed to install a regular size valve in this kind of adapter? And why on earth do we need two different tire valve sizes?

The only adapter I ever used like that just press-fit over the end with an o-ring seal, but I think most are threaded. First you unscrew the Presta valve as usual, then press the adapter on (thread it on if it's a threaded type). Then put your Schrader type inflator on the adapter and fill 'er up, remove inflator, remove adapter, screw down Presta valve and you're done.

As for why they invented Presta, it's mostly to make stronger rims (smaller hole in them), but the valve design itself is another reason. I guess it's supposed to be harder to have a leaky Presta than a leaky Schrader core.

Because of that smaller hole, don't forget the locknut over the valve stem that secures it to your rim. If you don't, it's possible that if it is touching the edge of the rim hole that the flopping around of the valve during bumps and rotation could rub a hole or a weakspot in the valve stem (it's usually metal all the way down, so this should be difficult, but still...). I didn't have a problem with it the one time I used a Presta tube in my Schrader rim, but it wasnt' in there very long, maybe a hundred miles or so.
 
amberwolf said:
As for why they invented Presta, it's mostly to make stronger rims (smaller hole in them), but the valve design itself is another reason. I guess it's supposed to be harder to have a leaky Presta than a leaky Schrader core.

Here's the real reason, since those were just convenient excuses. They did it just to sell us something different that cost them less that they sell for more, plus they get to sell the adapters just so you can put air in the damn things.

John
 
Presta valves have less metal, and so are lighter for a clincher tire. Comes from road bikes that wanted to shave a millionth of an ounce, while still not going as far as sew up tires. Now road bikes are so light, sew ups seem to have been abandoned. Most TDF bikes have a slug of metal in the seatpost to get them heavy enough to meet TDF rules.

My worst bike for getting flats is the fuji with the 5304 in the rear wheel. I kept getting pinch flats on the rear wheel since it's a hardtail rode on rough trails. That tire now has thick thornless tube in it, enough slime to weigh a half a pound, and between the tire and the tube, a road slick that had the bead cut off, and placed in there like a liner. No flats now, but the wheel weighs a ton.
 
Back
Top