Puncture repair on tube seam

Punx0r

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I've just had to repair two punctures (fine steel wire) on my hubmotor wheel. I managed to do this without removing the wheel, but one of the punctures was right on the seam of the tube.

I fear that a patch across a seam won't seal, so normally spend a while trying to sand it away without thining the adjacent rubber. Hand work and not very good.

Not having decent sandpaper to hand today I tried my normal safety shaving razor from the bathroom. It worked perfectly! In 10 seconds I had a perfectly flat repair area and no damage at all to the tube.

I just thought I'd share ;)

Ant
 
Prsonally, I think a seam patch is doomed to failure but ya gotta do what ya gotta do. And who knows you might get lucky and it holds forever. Was it a hole or a cut? I ask because if it was a cut it's better to actually end the cut on each end by actually creating a tiny hole at the ends. This keeps the cut/rip from extending beyond that point.

Bob
 
If I was at home, I would have gone ahead and taken the wheel off for replacement. Some times seam patches hold but some times you end up on the side of the trail wishing you had taken the time to do it proper. I hope it holds for you but as soon as you get the time, do a replacement on it. It is $4.99 piece of mind.
 
Good reminder about scraping instead of sandpaper. Patching a puncture along a seam requires you knock the ridge down and sandpaper seems to clog taking that much material off.

As long as it's not a slice or tear along the seam I have no problem patching a hole puncture. In fact, it's probably stronger along the seam with a patch than without...
 
What I pulled out of the tyre looked like fine bristles from a wire brush. The holes in the tube were literally pin-pricks, almost invisible to the eye. It took almost a day for the tyre to gradually deflate.

I once had a flat and ended up pulling a hypodermic needle out of the tyre. Nice.
 
Quality of the patch kits these days, I've just about given up on patches for anything but an emergency repair.

Remember those ones you lit on fire? Those really worked.

Maybe it's actually the tube rubber that sucks now, I don't know.
 
dogman said:
Quality of the patch kits these days, I've just about given up on patches for anything but an emergency repair.

Remember those ones you lit on fire? Those really worked.

Maybe it's actually the tube rubber that sucks now, I don't know.
lol I think it's the tube manufacturers wanting to sell more tubes.
...and yes, the patches (the glue actually) you set on fire not only worked well (vulcanizing process) but the glue was useful in creating all sorts of pyromaniac fun. Unfortunately it was also used for 'other' things prompting its' banishment.
RTV is a "cold set" vulcanizing process that needs 24 hours to set.
If you're not in a big hurry
...just in case you're lacking the $3 for a new tube and have some fresh tubes of (far more expensive) RTV laying about.
I've used RTV to fix non-radial tubeless tires (that are impossible to buy anymore) and the tubes for odd-sized tubed tires
(wheelbarrow)
-and I keep an unused single-edged razor blade in my bike tool kit.
Scraping tubes with a razor blade must be one of those "old, forgotten" tricks where I resemble the "old, forgotten"
 
I use fairly cheap tubes, patches and solvent glue and have to say I've not had one fail. I've never tried those self-adhesive patches, though. Maybe I'm just lucky :)
 
Generic rubber cement stuff for sticking tube patches. The type that smells awesome ;)

You know the stuff, goop some on the tube, spread it about a bit, leave it to go tacky and then apply the patch (which is also sticky). I guess it seals almost immediately, but I usually give it half and hour to be on the safe side.

I've never heard of stuff you set on fire, before my time I guess,
 
If the seam cracked, the tube is defective and should be tossed.

I tried a glue less patch once. It was more like vinyl than rubber. It didn't stretch as much as the tube and fell off. Back to glue on patches or being more careful when buying glue less ones.
 
I usually don't have a problem with patches that cross a seam line, but if I am out on the road and have to put on a patch that will, I rub the tube on the concrete sidewalk until the seam line is worn down.

If I am running low pressure in a tire, then I have had problems with teh patches not staying seated on the seam, but with 50PSI and up it's not much of a problem.

These days punctures aren't much of an issue, though, compared to valve stem ruptures, whcih I have not found an effective way to patch. I did try one tube using a patch and then heatshrink over the patch, per Harold in CR's suggestion, but will have to drill out the rim valve hole a lot to use it. :(

Never tried the self-adhesive patches, just the usual type, using rubber cement (big jar of Elmer's brand the last few times, from the kids' craft aisle; I refill the metal squeeze tubes for the patch kits with it).
 
Self-adhesive patches work fine, but a new tube is about the same cost as a "kit" of self-adhesive patches. The kit is far lighter and smaller than one or more tubes. Kits are my choice for a road bike.

One of the major advantages to an ebike/trike is carrying additional weight and/or slightly bulky items doesn't matter so much.
I carry a complete set of extra tubes for my trike + two kits of self-adhesive patches and a stand-up air pump.
I've had occasion to use all tubes and patches on just one ride. (hello, blackberry)
I then tried bell self-sealing tubes. I went back to slime tubes.
I still carry a full set of tubes but they haven't had to be used for a while.
Just one in June. (hello, blackberry, meet mssr bell's self-sealing tube "pssssssssss off" replied staid blackberry)
 
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