Qulbix Q76R Frame Kits & Complete Bikes PRE-ORDER

[L3chef]

I'm copying your battery build, except I will use Samsung 30q and I will parallel connect them.. So it will be difficult to fit a bms anywhere inside the frame. Also I cant find a smart bms that would fit width wise.

I know the MAX-E BMS fits in this location as I put it in there to see if it would fit. I would of course keep it encased in foam and make sure it is in there so it doesn't bounce around, you will have to push foam in there.



In the picture I circled in red the location I was going to put it.

I receieved my frame yesterday! Damn this thing is a beauty!

However, on my frame where you marked where you would mount the bms I got some reinforcement welded to the frame. Is it not present on the older frames?

https://ibb.co/jh6hfZX

 

[Offroader]

I had that same reinforcement on my frame, my Max-E BMS just fit through those holes as it was rectangular in shape. If you are using another BMS it may not fit.

What I planned on doing was wrapping the BMS in foam and just push it through the hole. Then after I run the wires through, I would squish in lots of more foam to keep it from moving.

Have you tried to see if you could get your BMS through there?

 

[L3chef]

I had that same reinforcement on my frame, my Max-E BMS just fit through those holes as it was rectangular in shape. If you are using another BMS it may not fit.

What I planned on doing was wrapping the BMS in foam and just push it through the hole. Then after I run the wires through, I would squish in lots of more foam to keep it from moving.

Have you tried to see if you could get your BMS through there?

I just did some measurements and it will not fit through the hole. I could remove ~0.5-1cm to make it fit, but I'm not so keen on doing that to a new frame.
I think I could get away with mounting it under the key and charge plug but it will be tricky getting all the wires connected in a neat way.

Plan B would be to mill an aluminum enclosure for the bms and try to make it somewhat weather proof and have it under the seat or if it fits in the controller shield.. I guess I will figure it out when I have all the parts..

 

[Offroader]

I would put it under the charge port, I considered that option as well.

Yes you are going to most likely have to deal with the wires to the BMS to make it fit. Not that big of a deal, will take some hours of even soldering on new wires but you may have a neater setup.

I would use thin wire, like 24 gauge wire because you really don't need anything larger than that.

 

[L3chef]

Damnit the bms is 15.5 cm long and not 13.5 as I thought... Meaning I would have to remove the charg plug to make it fit.. Sigh.
Or find a smaller bms wich seems impossible..

I have 22awg wires but I think I will go with 24 as you suggested. Need to make a larg misc order from hobbyking anyway

 

[Offroader]

if you get a chance maybe you can post a picture of the BMS. I'm curious to see it.

If worse comes to worse you can mount it under the seat or in back of the frame. I'm not sure what seat you will use but you can see all the crap I have under my seat.

You can also mount it behind the rear shock.

Actually hobby king has 26 and 30 awg wire, they never used to have anything above 24 guage. That is really thin stuff, but if you had to mount the BMS under the seat and had to route all those wires I would use the 26 or 30. The reason is the BMS uses something like .5 amps or something really low and even the 30 gauge would easily handle the current load. You would of course have to put the wires into some kind of single large insulation to protect them.

 

[L3chef]

This is the bms I have in mind. Haven´t ordered it yet but will probably do it in the next following days. 20s ofc and not 16 as the picture shows..

Yes I agree if I have to mount it on the outside then thinner wires would be best to use. By law all the wires have to be insulated in something. So I will insulate the wires with mesh guard..
For the moment I have a bicycle seat to keep the bicycle look. But I would really like to have a moto seat.. will see if I´ll buy one later next year...

It camed to my mind today that I have seen a bestech 12s bms been split into 2 pieces. Curious if it would be doable with this bms If it would be possible which I doubt it would be easy to fit it inside the frame.

What´s all the stuff you have mounted under the seat? Step down converter, and is that your controller?

 

[Offroader]

No wonder why you are having difficulty fitting that thing, it is huge.

The Max-E 24S BMS is much smaller.

What controller are you using for your build?

 

[L3chef]

Yes it is.(155*70*25mm) But it's the smallest bms widht wise I can find that's a smart bms. To my understanding Adaptto bms is only compatible with adaptto controller. Otherwise I would try and find one..

I have a cheap KT controller (kunteng) 72v 60A.
But I have my eyes on the asi bac 4000..

 

[hgclobo]

After a couple of weeks reading this whole thread (and several others too) I just took the plunge 8) I come straight from the paypal website to write this post, I just ordered the 76 bicycle frame kit, rear suspension kit, e-motor kit and rear mudguard all from Qulbix. I went with a custom color, Im not sure if they are going to be able to fulfill what I'm asking for but i'll keep it under wraps unit it arrives, then i'll post some pics, (just if it looks cool :lol: ). In the next couple of days i'll be placing orders for the rest of the parts needed, I might need to picking some brains soon in.
Suuuuper happy here! Thanks to everyone on this thread.

 

[L3chef]

After a couple of weeks reading this whole thread (and several others too) I just took the plunge 8) I come straight from the paypal website to write this post, I just ordered the 76 bicycle frame kit, rear suspension kit, e-motor kit and rear mudguard all from Qulbix. I went with a custom color, Im not sure if they are going to be able to fulfill what I'm asking for but i'll keep it under wraps unit it arrives, then i'll post some pics, (just if it looks cool :lol: ). In the next couple of days i'll be placing orders for the rest of the parts needed, I might need to picking some brains soon in.
Suuuuper happy here! Thanks to everyone on this thread.

Welcome to the club! And good timing on buying that frame. Think the 40% discount ended the same day you bought the frame.
What forks are you going with, and what kind of battery have you planed for your build?

 

[Offroader]

L3chef, why did you not purchase the Max-E controller? It is a really good controller and the size is perfect for the Q76. The BMS would also be easy to install as its small in size.

 

[L3chef]

L3chef, why did you not purchase the Max-E controller? It is a really good controller and the size is perfect for the Q76. The BMS would also be easy to install as its small in size.

To my understanding adaptto stoped producing controllers. I emailed qulbix and a swedish company to try and score one without any luck.. Now I have my eyes on the 12f Nucular controller. The creator is developing a bms for it aswell. Don't know the size yet but fingers crossed it will fit inside the frame.

Speaking of bms. I skipped the one I posted and will buy a Bestech hcx-223 that should fit under the key and charg port if I mount it diagonally. It's not a bluetooth/smart bms but it have a e switch that I can wire to the key.

 

[hgclobo]

L3chef, yea! Got it on the very last sale day.
As for forks, I’ve read many people are going for the USD-8 but I think im gonna look for a used rockshok or fox on ebay.
As for batts, I’m thinking about building a 20s 1p pack from those 200A 8Ah lipos for now to keep the cost down.
Controller, I’ve been told that an unlocked 200A sabvoton can do the trick but I’ve also read that these new sabvotons arent all that great so I’m also looking at a 200A mobipus.

 

[cmacclel]

L3chef, yea! Got it on the very last sale day.
As for forks, I’ve read many people are going for the USD-8 but I think im gonna look for a used rockshok or fox on ebay.
As for batts, I’m thinking about building a 20s 1p pack from those 200A 8Ah lipos for now to keep the cost down.
Controller, I’ve been told that an unlocked 200A sabvoton can do the trick but I’ve also read that these new sabvotons arent all that great so I’m also looking at a 200A mobipus.

I thought about using those battery's as well but an 8AH Pack is not going to give you much run time at all. I don't think you can fit these cells in a 2p configuration in the 76 frame easily.

 

[cmacclel]

Guys anyone know what size Rotors I need? DNM Front fork and I already bought the Shimano SLX M7000 setup.

 

[Offroader]

Assuming you have the dual crown USD-8

Rotor size depends on the fork and adapters and not the brakes.

The USD-8 comes with a 203mm adapter.

you would want a 203mm rotor.

 

[cmacclel]

Assuming you have the dual crown USD-8

Rotor size depends on the fork and adapters and not the brakes.

The USD-8 comes with a 203mm adapter.

you would want a 203mm rotor.

203mm front and rear?

 

[Offroader]

Yes. Your Q76r frame will come with the adapter for 203 mm on the rear.

 

[hgclobo]

@offroader, the headtube is 150mm and you cut yours down to 140mm, i'm wondering if im gonna have to do the same, I found a good deal on a fork but the steerer tube is already cut down to 161.9mm. I´m not sure if to the 150mm from the headtube I still have to add the headset cups height and the upper crown height both of which I don't know .

 

[Offroader]

I think it wouldn't work even if you cut the head tube down to 140 mm.

First, you need to fit the headset so even the smallest head set is going to be around 10mm.

You then need to fit the top crown of the fork, which is another 15 mm.

Then you need to fit the something to attach the handlebar on top of the top crown (a Stem), I'm not sure what you will use and how high this is but add another 20-40mm.

You are easily looking at minimal 140+ 10 + 15 + 20 = 185mm


More than likely you will not be able to buy a used fork for this bike as you would want at least 200 mm to be safe.

 

[hgclobo]

Thanks for clearing it up!!
I was about to take the plunge, I’m happy I didn’t.

 

[hgclobo]

Also, I found that your 888 fork has a max length of the steerer tube between the two crowns of 160mm but for the bomber 380 is just 148mm, so the headtube 140mm and the smallest head set around 10mm, it might be a bad idea to go for the bomber 380 even if there is enough steerer tube, don´t you think?
Or has anyone else installed a bomber 380 already without a problem?

Also, there might be another 2mm to 5mm extra from the angle of the upper crown.


Reference:


https://www.marzocchi.com/System/29859/9008001_FORK_00.pdf

 

[Offroader]

How that top crown slants down in the picture above is not a big deal for the steerer tube length, but it may be an issue for frame clearance.

Even though I cut my steerer tube down to 140mm, I still needed to add a 5 mm spacer below the top crown to lift it up, for the top crown to clear my frame as shown in the picture.

So it made no difference if my headtube was 145mm or 140mm.

So between my headset and top crown there is a 5mm spacer. You will not need this if your top crown is straight.

You can see in the picture how close the clearance is. What I do not like about this is that if your finger or a wire ever got caught in that you would do a lot of damage. Just something to keep aware of, and maybe get a top crown that is flat and not sloped downwards so you do not have to deal with this issue.

You can also see in the picture below where the top crown attaches to my fork stanchion, I had no room to really raise the top crown anymore to increase this clearance, or it would not clamp on the stanchion.

I am not sure why they slope the top crowns down like this, maybe it is to save weight to keep the stanchions shorter?

 

[hgclobo]

Thanks for showing the frame clearance, it does look very close, I’ll keep an eye for that, still, I’m worried about the max space between crowns, its too short for the bomber 380 at only 148mm, damn, I’m gonna pass on this offer I found and look for other forks.