Rodney64
100 kW
Mammalian04 said:
I used loctite for my shock mounts, calliper bolts and I also put some on my axle bolts. I've since managed to install torque arms and I've documented over on my thead.
Qulbix Raptor 140
- Thread starter Mammalian04
- Start date
I used loctite for my shock mounts, calliper bolts and I also put some on my axle bolts. I've since managed to install torque arms and I've documented over on my thead.
I check my clamping dropout bolts and axle nuts each ride. I also check the swingarm bolts where they attach to the frame.
All these bolts will eventually come loose, an ebike isn't a set and forget. The side cover bolts will also come loose eventually and the side covers are necessary for support as mentioned by Qulbix.
Mountain bike manufactures and fork manufactures recommend checking most of the bolts each ride.
If you don't want to check often I recommend getting nord lock washers for the axle nuts, clamping dropout nuts, and swingarm bolts, as all these eventually will come loose. You may even want to use them on the side covers if you don't open them up often.
I don't know how well Loctite will work, but it could work. I believe nord lock washers are the best and I will eventually get them for my bike as it is annoying checking all the bolts each ride.
All these bolts will eventually come loose, an ebike isn't a set and forget. The side cover bolts will also come loose eventually and the side covers are necessary for support as mentioned by Qulbix.
Mountain bike manufactures and fork manufactures recommend checking most of the bolts each ride.
If you don't want to check often I recommend getting nord lock washers for the axle nuts, clamping dropout nuts, and swingarm bolts, as all these eventually will come loose. You may even want to use them on the side covers if you don't open them up often.
I don't know how well Loctite will work, but it could work. I believe nord lock washers are the best and I will eventually get them for my bike as it is annoying checking all the bolts each ride.
Hyena
10 GW
I had a swing arm bolt come loose and when you compressed the suspension you could see that whole side of the frame moving around. I wasn't able to tighten it back up as it seemed to have stripped the end few threads from the movement while loose. Getting a longer bolt was an easy fix - the thread is actually tapped a fair bit deeper than the standard bolt.
I've had the pinch bolts chew out the heads too. I tighten them right up to get maximum clamping force but it seems they don't like it. It cost me $1 for the replacement swing arm bolt and 2 pinch bolts from the local fastener place. Unless your pinch bolts look like new I'd recommend replacing them each time you remove the rear wheel (and as stated, use loctite)
Re: the stickers, great minds think alike offroader.
I actually had some coloured text ones to match the body stickers printed up for my swing arms.
After playing with a solid stripe on the atomic raptor I decided an 'inverse' sticker on the swing arm (where the colour is solid and the lettering is cut out) would look good too. I haven't had those printed yet but will do it shortly.
I was going to go with a diagonal stripe on the swing arm (like below) but it doesn't leave much room the text, unless it's a very slight diagonal right along the length.
I've had the pinch bolts chew out the heads too. I tighten them right up to get maximum clamping force but it seems they don't like it. It cost me $1 for the replacement swing arm bolt and 2 pinch bolts from the local fastener place. Unless your pinch bolts look like new I'd recommend replacing them each time you remove the rear wheel (and as stated, use loctite)
Re: the stickers, great minds think alike offroader.
I actually had some coloured text ones to match the body stickers printed up for my swing arms.
After playing with a solid stripe on the atomic raptor I decided an 'inverse' sticker on the swing arm (where the colour is solid and the lettering is cut out) would look good too. I haven't had those printed yet but will do it shortly.
I was going to go with a diagonal stripe on the swing arm (like below) but it doesn't leave much room the text, unless it's a very slight diagonal right along the length.
Hyena, I'd like to see what you came up with for the colored text.
I saw this Honda scooter over in Asia and like the way the ZOOMER X looks and would think a properly made text graphic saying "raptor 140" would look best. I especially like the orange lettering look for this.
Here is the scooter I am talking about
The text put on the swingarm in a similar way, maybe even having the 140 outlined like the X in the picture above would look better.
I saw this Honda scooter over in Asia and like the way the ZOOMER X looks and would think a properly made text graphic saying "raptor 140" would look best. I especially like the orange lettering look for this.
Here is the scooter I am talking about
The text put on the swingarm in a similar way, maybe even having the 140 outlined like the X in the picture above would look better.
Hyena
10 GW
I'll post another picture once I have the bike built up but here's an example of the red text to match the other red stickers.
I was also playing around with my logo stickers but I'm not a fan of it there on the swing arm as shown. They'll be going on the headtube.
I was also playing around with my logo stickers but I'm not a fan of it there on the swing arm as shown. They'll be going on the headtube.
Jonboy said:
Have you read my past posts about upgrading my whole chain system? There are a few options you can take here. I use a 17" rear so couldn't fit a chain guide but others have when using a 19" or 26" bicycle.
I was getting annoyed by my chain issues also and decided to fix them. Now it feels like I have no chain at all on my bike that is how well they worked.
You will need a clutch derailleur and I also recommend the narrow wide chainring for the front over the chain guide. The only reason you should use a chain guide is for cool factor as it does look cool, but the narrow wide is functionally better in my opinion and should also hold the chain tighter to make it more quiet.
Here is the post I made about the upgrade. I also recommend you get the bash guard as that will save the teeth on the narrow wide from breaking.
https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=939201&f=3#p939201
Qulbix
100 W
marcn
100 W
Anyone in Australia have any Cromotor axle spacers they want to sell me? I think Qulbix are also selling these with their Raptor frames now.
Mammalian04
100 kW
What are you guys using for bump stops on the forks. I have Fox 40 forks and with my ODI bump stops, my turning radius is terrible. I feel like "Austin Powers in an electric cart" when going slow. ..
Hyena
10 GW
If anyone has them it's going to be memarcn said:
I have a handful at home, I'm not sure if all the spacers are the same size or of they have 14 or 16mm variants
I'll measure them tonight and let you know. How many do you need ?
marcn
100 W
[strike]Thanks Jay. Didn't know whether your customers took them or you had spares. Tried emailing Qulbix a few times the last several weeks about a few things but no response.
I think the Cro needs 16mm if you have 5 you could send.[/strike]
Hi Jay, don't worry about it. Just read offloaders post re Nord-lock, so I'll buy some of them.
I think the Cro needs 16mm if you have 5 you could send.[/strike]
Hi Jay, don't worry about it. Just read offloaders post re Nord-lock, so I'll buy some of them.
marcn, I use the nord lock on the outside to lock in the axle nut and cause it not to loosen, I would still get the C spacers for inside the dropouts.
I guess you could use them as spacers but that would be expensive. If you are going to order the nord lock washers get the smaller size also for the clamping dropout bolts as those will loosen with time.
I guess you could use them as spacers but that would be expensive. If you are going to order the nord lock washers get the smaller size also for the clamping dropout bolts as those will loosen with time.
friendly1uk
1 MW
165 selling in londinium. Under $1000 new and delivered in the UK. Nobody looks interested.
Poorly listed on ebay uk. They don't even use it's name.
Poorly listed on ebay uk. They don't even use it's name.
marcn
100 W
Offroader said:
Thanks Offloader. I've used up the C washers on the inside already. I actually had to cut down the top part to make sure the ziptie could push the wires right up against the axle, making sure I still left part of it to grip onto the axle so it can't be taken off easily. If I didn't do that, I got into clearance issues with the rotor since the wire stuck out a few mm as it sat on the c washer. The Nord locks were only going to be for the outside on the dropouts, as well as the dropout clamps and swingarm, after reading about Jays coming loose.
Hyena, do you find the DNM USD 8 fork worth the cost savings over the more expensive forks such as the Fox and Marzocchi forks?
It his hard to buy something else when the fork is only $400 dollars and people seem to like it.
I also feel we can't really push the forks to the edge on an ebike like you would do on a downhill bike and weight savings doesn't really matter for an ebike.
It his hard to buy something else when the fork is only $400 dollars and people seem to like it.
I also feel we can't really push the forks to the edge on an ebike like you would do on a downhill bike and weight savings doesn't really matter for an ebike.
Hyena
10 GW
Mark did you actually want the spacers as washers for the outside ? If not you should probably use flat washers on the inside and the nords as suggested on the outside. I checked and I have them in both 14 and 16mm if you still need them.
Offroader, yep I highly recommend the USD8s. Sure if you're a pro/technical mtb rider and fit them to your 10kg carbon downhill bike you'd probably fault them but as you said on a heavy ebike any weight savings are trivial. The cost saving is significant though and I'd much rather spend $500+ saved on forks elsewhere on stuff I CAN notice, like better brakes or a more powerful controller.
I dont find them bad out of the box but Emmett over in the stealth thread did some cheap mods to his which he said gave much better performance.
Oh and as per my build thread the other day, here's my latest work in progress
Offroader, yep I highly recommend the USD8s. Sure if you're a pro/technical mtb rider and fit them to your 10kg carbon downhill bike you'd probably fault them but as you said on a heavy ebike any weight savings are trivial. The cost saving is significant though and I'd much rather spend $500+ saved on forks elsewhere on stuff I CAN notice, like better brakes or a more powerful controller.
I dont find them bad out of the box but Emmett over in the stealth thread did some cheap mods to his which he said gave much better performance.
Oh and as per my build thread the other day, here's my latest work in progress
marcn
100 W
Hey Jay,
Was originally going to use those spacers as washers on the outside. I've used up all my spacers on the freewheel and brake side.
Ended up getting 16mm nord locks for the outside.
Was originally going to use those spacers as washers on the outside. I've used up all my spacers on the freewheel and brake side.
Ended up getting 16mm nord locks for the outside.
Hyena said:Offroader, yep I highly recommend the USD8s. Sure if you're a pro/technical mtb rider and fit them to your 10kg carbon downhill bike you'd probably fault them but as you said on a heavy ebike any weight savings are trivial. The cost saving is significant though and I'd much rather spend $500+ saved on forks elsewhere on stuff I CAN notice, like better brakes or a more powerful controller.
I dont find them bad out of the box but Emmett over in the stealth thread did some cheap mods to his which he said gave much better performance.
Oh and as per my build thread the other day, here's my latest work in progress
Thanks, I think I will try it out. I can then compare it to my Marzocchi 888 fork. It is hard to justify spending double on another fork.
Do you know if you can choose the color combination of the USD 8, I see Qulbix uses a black version and you use a gold version. The gold version seems to be the only color option that I can buy locally.
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