Qulbix Raptor 140

marcn said:
Offloader I agree about the Nordlock washers for the swingarm, axle and dropouts. You recommended them a few months back and we adopted them in our build. We also used helicoils in the dropouts and brake adapter, and changed all the bolts over in the dropout and swingarm to add even more strength. Haven't lost ANY torque in 240km so far.

It's obvious when our Nordlocks lose tension, as they make a fairly loud sound as the washers release from being untightened. If these ever came loose while riding, the sound is loud enough to make you think you've broken a spoke.
Click to expand...

Why did you decide to use the helicoils? Did you ruin the threads in your dropouts? Why not just tap for a larger screw size?

I was working on a project that had me removing the motor like 6 times and I think I may have screwed up the threads of the clamping dropouts on one side.
 
Offroader said:
Why did you decide to use the helicoils? Did you ruin the threads in your dropouts? Why not just tap for a larger screw size?
Click to expand...

Hey Offloader,

We ruined the threads in the brake adapter without even over torquing, the metal is just too soft. So wherever the bolt was important, we used helicoils, and they've been fantastic. Using a larger bolt would've eventually had the same issue.
 
Hi all,

I'm having trouble trying to mount Magura MT5 rear calipers to a 203mm rotor mounted to the 'fatbike' (wider axle) version of the MXUS v2 motor.

Basically, the rear caliper mount does not fit between the frame and the rotor. An appropriate mount would have to be at least a few mm thinner and need to provide additional lateral adjustment for the rotor.

Does anyone have any advice? Are there any off the shelf adapters that would work?
 
Architectonic said:
marcn said:
Check out our build thread. We ended up taking about 6mm off our adapter to make it work.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I guess that would probably do it. The question is, what do those of us who don't have the means to machine our own adapters do?
Click to expand...

No local machinist close by? We tried to play around with some of Maguras adapters but we couldn't get any to work without modifying at least two brackets. Ended up just modifying the original. Snells also had the same issue on his Raptor build. Someone else may be able to jump in and recommend another solution that worked but I personally don't know of any.
 
Yep, as Marc did, I had to have my caliper mounts machined down. I mocked it up, marked the space needed with a fine point sharpie and then had a machine shop shave it down. $50 later ($25 for each bike) I had a caliper mount. Not ideal but what are ya gonna do.....
 
I think the reason for milling down the brake adapter is because Qulbix has the motor offset because I believe for the chainline. Doesn't really make sense to me to offset the rim because of this. You will weaken the spokes at the expense of a straighter chain line which isn't really needed because most use a single speed and most probably don't pedal all that much. Who cares if the chain isn't perfectly straight.

What Qulbix did was they have the motor offset and then put into the package a thicker brake adapter because of this.

From building wheels I'll tell you that it is not worth offsetting the rim, especially on the rear because you will have to use less tension on one side.

Since I have a mill machine, which is one of the best tools I bought from harbor freight, I easily milled my brake adapter. But you can easily do this with a drill press. I think snellemin just filed his down or used a drill press.
 
Hey all, might be a dumb question, but:

Can you run a control cable to the rear derailer on a 140 frame? I had a quick look around and couldn't see any of those mounts for the control cable on the frame.

I know that most people seem to only run a single cog, so the answer may well be no I can't, but just thought I'd ask.

Cheers,

-Robbo
 
There's no cable guides specifically, in the past I've run them down under the controller shield (if fitted) and just zip tied to the swing arm where it allows.
 
1902759-iqt98tg04pot-img_20150923_wa0000-original.jpg
 
ziltoid81 said:
Its the MXUS for now.
Maybe i will get a 205 qs v3 later.
But for now, im really happy with the power even @(only)60A and 120A phase current.

Came from a BBS01.......the thrust without the need to shift is something new to me. :D
Click to expand...

I heard the MXUS has lots of power, do you really think you need a bigger heavier motor for more power?
 
Im not sure.....

I definitely want a water cooled hub.
The power is great, but once heatet up it stays pretty much at high temperatures.
But i got some issues with my temp probe in the motor, maybe its showing nonsense.
When the Motor is cool, i get normal readings like the temp should be.
But at some point i get strange readings.....it jumps from 78 to 160 or even 2xx for one second to another.
I have to sort this out first but......

The MXUS will need another axle to watercool it, the qs has plenty of room for this cause it carries a bigger axle.
 
I remember when I replaced the temp probe in my motor and ran through the halls ground wire, I also had jumping temperature problem. I ran a direct wire directly to the max-e from the temp probe and that solved it. Just something to consider. Why that would matter is beyond me as the resistance tested fine.

Yes a water cooled motor would be nice. I couldn't ride my cromotor in the summer for long before I was at 100C. At that point it would cool so slowly, to the point I could only drive very slowly.

I did a custom air cooling mod with an EDF fan, that sucks cool air in and hot air out. While it is loud you don't hear it when moving and I can drive as hard as I want in 100F summer heat without overheating. I can't drive full throttle up a very steep hill for a long time or stall the motor as that will overheat the motor, but nothing would work not even water cooling.

I also found that simply drilling the motor for air cooling makes a huge difference.

[youtube]iU9ti000LuU[/youtube]
 
You actually sealed your motor on the stator armature giving it two hemispheres? So cool air gets sucked in through one side, and blown to the other side which then blows out the vent holes as air pressure rises above atmospheric pressure?
 
I dont want to open the motor, i mean drill holes or something.

For now its ok, but its getting cooler here in germany due to the coming winter.
In summer i need some cooling.

The bike is a commuter and im fine for now, cause i dont go WOT all the time.
It stays between 50 and 60 celsius for the majority of time, but i pedal all the time and go only 32-40.
Once you go WOT for a short period of time, this sucker heats up in notime.
 
Rix said:
You actually sealed your motor on the stator armature giving it two hemispheres? So cool air gets sucked in through one side, and blown to the other side which then blows out the vent holes as air pressure rises above atmospheric pressure?
Click to expand...

The motor actually has an air duct that seals directly to the side of the case with a plastic round duct custom milled and then siliconed placed on top to make a seal against the motor case.

This allows the fan to draw air from one side, it then passes through the coils on one side, between the magnets and stator gap, through the coils again and out of the motor on the same side. Basically fresh air in and hot air out. Only issue is that some of the hot air blown out of the motor gets sucked back into the center holes because it is on one side, I need to make some kind of duct outside the motor to stop this.

The fan is super powerful also, spins at like 70,000 RPM.

In the picture below you can see the outer holes and inner hole separation on the side of the motor.

The crazy thing is that just having the holes drilled and the fan off make a huge difference, but the fan on also makes it better. It is just that I probably would have been fine with just the holes drilled, and I only drilled on one side also.

Probably most would be more than fine with just drilling some vent holes.



 
is there any better way to avoid water going into the motor from the holes on the cover when riding in rain or mud?
will some kind of filter be enough?
 
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