Red Hornet??

Storm

100 W
Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
108
Hey YPedal whats going with that RedHornet motor your testin?

Any chance of getting one? where do they come from as they look simmilar to the GL2, are they the same basic layout with larger wire or stronger magnets or are they a higher voltage?

Did you say 1000w?

can you give us any specs or tell us where to get info form?

Do you tink they're any good?

Can you give us look inside?

Fire up the REDHORNET!!
 
Ahhh.. the red hornet.......

It's almost ready to be tested but I had a setback, ie: Battery !

To power this beast i need a capable battery, my LiMn can only do 35 amps , gently..

My 48v 25ah LiFe pack that was supposed to be used, has charger problems, so i'm sorting that out as quickly as possible but it's taking time... :evil:

Stay tuned.. it won't be long... :lol:
 
Ypedal said:
Ahhh.. the red hornet.......

It's almost ready to be tested but I had a setback, ie: Battery !

To power this beast i need a capable battery, my LiMn can only do 35 amps , gently..

Your cells aren't a problem, right? Why not just yank that finicky BMS? You shouldn't need it.
 
The LiMn packs belong on the Norco, with the fancy chmancy lexan boxes ( that i will be opening to bypass the BMS very shortly, and adding a 40 amp controller !! :twisted: with a 409 that is already opened up with bearings removed.. )..

The Red-Hornet has 12mm flats on the axle instead of the usual 3/8- 10mm, so i'm modding the Chopper frame for it, the dropouts are Thick and Beefy so torque arms won't really be an issue ( tho i am fitting some regardless ) ...

The Red-Hornet came with it's own controller ( not a clyte ) and it's 48v 40+ amps ( tbd ), my Limn are 36v so that won't work out unfortunately.
 
Ypedal, I can test it for you totally FREEEEEE ! 8)

I have 480A peak of juice (A123 4p) at 48V...

I can put it as a front hub motor!

twin motor Red Hornet +5305 :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:


Doc
 
so how will you be fitting it? rear motor?

i just wish there was a good way we could use proper downhill bikes with these hub motors, that would be awesome :)


or find a small motorcycle that would be suitable.
 
jeez how did i miss that!??!?!

niiiiice!

:)

I'm still trying to find a motorbike that would suit hub motors :p
 
The chopper frame will be ideal for this, big , wide, Strong !!!

biggest thing right now is to figure out battery mounting, i'd like to split the pack into 2 x 24v but i don't want to do this until i prove that the cells are working properly ( the way they were delivered to me ), once confirmed ( and i pray they are ok ) i'll mount them to the frame permanently... for now the battery goes in a back-pack for testing.

As far as initial observations, it's surprisingly light compared to the X5, 18 lbs vs 24 ... I'll crack it open after i drive it ( don't want to risk breaking something while opening it up and never get to ride it.. )

I can spin the axle by hand ( not so easy on an X5 ) and the sound it makes is really sweet, it whistles !! lol..

I hesitate to give too many details until i test things to my liking, i don't like bad surprises...
 
How wide is it YPedal?

Will it fit in 135mm dropouts?

The threads on the housings on the GL2s required some machining I was told, is the disc attached by a threaded adaptor?
 
Storm said:
How wide is it YPedal?

Will it fit in 135mm dropouts?

The threads on the housings on the GL2s required some machining I was told, is the disc attached by a threaded adaptor?

Wide = 140mm without disk brake or freewheel mounted !

The axle flats on the motor i have are 12mm but i'm told that production units will have 10mm, remains to be confirmed .

The disk is attached on the cover using 4 large nuts, and is 3mm thick !!

Pretty much Ideal for a chopper ! :p
 
So it seems the Hornet motors are from 9 Continents?
 
Ypedal said:
Wide = 140mm without disk brake or freewheel mounted !

Too bad. That makes it an impractical replacement for an X5 in most ebikes with standard 135mm dropouts.
 
meh its 5mm - stretch ur dropouts (if they're steel) lol and u wonder why i have issues with frames hehe.

it would be perfect for a downhill bike (150mm dropouts) pitty the mounts are different.
 
BiGH said:
meh its 5mm - stretch ur dropouts (if they're steel) lol and u wonder why i have issues with frames hehe.

it would be perfect for a downhill bike (150mm dropouts) pitty the mounts are different.

Ypedal said 140mm without brake OR freewheel! Can you stretch your dropouts that far without critically weakening the rear triangle's ability to hold such a powerful motor?
 
xyster said:
BiGH said:
meh its 5mm - stretch ur dropouts (if they're steel) lol and u wonder why i have issues with frames hehe.

it would be perfect for a downhill bike (150mm dropouts) pitty the mounts are different.

Ypedal said 140mm without brake OR freewheel! Can you stretch your dropouts that far without critically weakening the rear triangle's ability to hold such a powerful motor?

oh crap missed that - i'm really having some cognitive issues this week :S

nah can't stretch that far.... i wonder what exactly the motor was designed for at the factory? motorbike?
 
I did manage to wedge it into a steel peugot frame.. but maaaaaaaannn it was a tight fit.. and i still needed to add spacers to clear the threads for the freewheel.. :shock:

I suspect an electric scooter was the original purpose.. should haul ass with a lightweight bike frame with Lithium at a good clip if it performs as advertised !!!!

Stay tuned ! i'm getting closer to having it on the road ( up t'il 2am last night working on it.. 7am came quickly this morning :!: )
 
Nov 20 and i finally got to spin up the motor last night.. :p

The controller and motor were sent with a busted up WE throttle with the LED panel partially ripped off.. so much for first impressions.. :lol: .. and no conectors.. so it was a guessing game for the throttle wires..

I hooked up 36v of sla and crimped on some andersons on the controller..

stripped back the wires on the throttle and jamed the strands into the controller's conector.. black on black.. red on red and green on yellow..

With due caution, pointed the front wheel of the chopper towards a wall and supported the frame to lift the wheel off the ground..

No instructions provided or fancy red arrow to point wich way the motor might go.. i assumed threads on the right side and disk brake on the left ie: typical bicycle format.... = WRONG......

The motor jerked half a turn and quit... :shock:

Aight.. must be the 36v on a 48v controller cutting out.. hopefully.. so i added 12v of NIMH to the mix.. tried again...

BRRRRrrrzzzzzzzzzz....... Full-On.. Reverse... !!!! :?

Tried different combinations of throttle wires and either had No-joy or full-on .. :evil:

Go dive into my stash of parts.. grab a new crystalyte half twist throttle and snip the conector off.. also cut the controller conector, and slap on some andersons to make testing easier...

First attempt = Perfect !

Bad WE throttle.... :x .. Thanks Andy.


So.. We have a running motor.. but reversed.. remove motor from frame.. swap direction.. re-connect and bolt back on.. now the axle is messed up something fierce.. the threads and nuts have slop in them to the point of being able to move the nut over 1/8th section of threads by hand !!!! :shock: .. with spacers and new nuts i was able to get them snug.. not tight.. but snug.. enough for a quick test .. but not going to hold up long-term. I'm going to have to open up the motor and attempt to replace the axle. :roll:
 
fechter said:
Can you re-thread the existig axle?

Tighter nuts?

You definitely need those nuts tight!

Not easily, to mill and re-thread the axle would have to come out would it not ?

If it was wedged into a bicycle frame the threads close to the hub are decent, but the chopper needs the threads further out and those took a beating....

The wire exits the end of the axle, like the Puma's, so the axle material is really thin already.. i don't think it's possible to re-mill that side. the other may be possible.

I have one side down pretty good.. the other worries me.. it does have 2 torque arms, one per side, so it's not really going anywhere. But she's FAST that's for sure.....

3 amps no load at 48v.

Has a nice whistle sound effect when it winds down.
 
Ypedal said:
Not easily, to mill and re-thread the axle would have to come out would it not ?

Perhaps not. You might consider welding/brazing more metal to the outside of the axle, then re-threading that.

Weirder idea: use some heli-coil in reverse... find some that fits the original threading and epoxy it onto the axle, then use the outside of the helicoil as your new threads.
 
Hmm.. the helicoil idea is not bad.. i'd have to thread a section onto the axle inside the dropout, then another section after the dropout.. ( the axle threads are wider than the 12mm flats... so this may be difficult as the heli's are usually fairly thin material.. but a good suggestion none the less.. thanks !
 
TylerDurden said:
Perhaps not. You might consider welding/brazing more metal to the outside of the axle, then re-threading that.

That's what I would do. Brazing material might be good enough. If you can find a threading die the right size, you wouldn't need to remove the axle, you could do it by hand. Leave a bit of original thread untouched near the end to get the die started properly.
 
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