Reviving an ELF battery

[Terenig]

Hi everyone,

My name is Terenig. I'm the founder of a micromobility discovery site Have A Go.

I'm new to this site. I recently purchased a secondhand ELF but the batteries (which are almost brand new) seem to be dead from lack of use. They wouldn't charge up.

I was advised by Rob Cotter, Organic Transit's CEO to try this amazing forum to see if anyone could help revive the batteries.

Any thoughts?

Many thanks!
Terenig

 

[LeftieBiker]

This is what you have? https://electricbikereview.com/organic-transit/elf/ With a 48 volt, 11.4 AH capacity and a Lithium Manganese Cobalt chemistry pack, using 18650 cells?

 

[amberwolf]

The first thing to do, if leaving it on the charger for several days does not do anything, is to open it up and check the voltages of each cell group, and list htem all here, starting from the most negative and working your way to the msot positive.

This is easiest to do at the BMS's sense / balance wire port. A thread I posted in earlier tonight (if you look thru my recent posts) has some details on how you might protect against shorting anything out while doing this test.


There are a lot of battery repair / troubleshooting threads, some started as "my bike cuts out" or "my battery wont charge", etc., which have detailed information / help on the process, if you don't mind looking around.

 

[flangefrog]

Also, before you open it up (you might need to cut open the heatshrink) you could try testing the voltage at both the charge and discharge ports. Sometimes you won't get any voltage on one but you will on the other.

 

[Terenig]

This is what you have? https://electricbikereview.com/organic-transit/elf/ With a 48 volt, 11.4 AH capacity and a Lithium Manganese Cobalt chemistry pack, using 18650 cells?

Seems to be a bit different than the EBR ELF page. Here's a picture of the battery info I took:

 

[Terenig]

The first thing to do, if leaving it on the charger for several days does not do anything, is to open it up and check the voltages of each cell group, and list htem all here, starting from the most negative and working your way to the msot positive.

This is easiest to do at the BMS's sense / balance wire port. A thread I posted in earlier tonight (if you look thru my recent posts) has some details on how you might protect against shorting anything out while doing this test.

There are a lot of battery repair / troubleshooting threads, some started as "my bike cuts out" or "my battery wont charge", etc., which have detailed information / help on the process, if you don't mind looking around.

Thanks! I haven't tried leaving it on the charger for several days. I'll try that.

If that doesn't work, I think opening up the pack and checking voltages might be above my pay grade! Any places in the greater Los Angeles area you know that does this sort of work?

Thank you!

 

[999zip999]

Check the charger voltage. Check the battery voltage. Do you have a multi meter ?

 

[LeftieBiker]

This is what you have? https://electricbikereview.com/organic-transit/elf/ With a 48 volt, 11.4 AH capacity and a Lithium Manganese Cobalt chemistry pack, using 18650 cells?

Seems to be a bit different than the EBR ELF page. Here's a picture of the battery info I took:

I think you have the larger battery that replaced the original one offered. The higher capacity makes it more worth trying to save - even if it's lost 40% it will have about as much left as the original version.

 

[Terenig]

Check the charger voltage. Check the battery voltage. Do you have a multi meter ?

I don't, but I will get one!

 

[Terenig]

This is what you have? https://electricbikereview.com/organic-transit/elf/ With a 48 volt, 11.4 AH capacity and a Lithium Manganese Cobalt chemistry pack, using 18650 cells?

Seems to be a bit different than the EBR ELF page. Here's a picture of the battery info I took:

I think you have the larger battery that replaced the original one offered. The higher capacity makes it more worth trying to save - even if it's lost 40% it will have about as much left as the original version.

Ya and especially considering I have two of them! Thank you

 

[e-beach]

Did you meter the battery before you tried to charge it? If any of the cells are lower then the manufactures specs they are certainly not worth trying to save as they are now a fire hazard. Is the battery case hinged? Can you open it and see the cells? Besides that a 700wh at 30a continuous battery for that kind of EV seems a little small, but maybe it is good enough for the motor.

First things first. Can you access the individual cells?