RIPPY SCOOT

[RIPPERTON]

So I swapped my electric kart for a new Kelly controller...... I know right.
But it blew up before it ever turned a wheel as the config program had a booby trap in it.
Kelly wont replace it under warranty. Giving Kelly a big miss from now on.
So what do you guys think of Golden Motor controllers.
I got a quote of $1136 aud shipped for a EZ-B144400 180v 400 A phase sine wave.

 

[RIPPERTON]

Deal Breaker alert !!
Despite the Golden Motor chatbot telling me twice that this controller has variable regen control... it actually doesnt.
I always use a 0-5v pressure transducer mounted in a hydraulic master cylinder on the handlebars to control regen full time all the time. Its my standard service brake. Hydraulic disc brakes only get used in emergency.

 

[RIPPERTON]

So no replacement ctlr from Kelly. I decided to use one the 600A KHB,s from the R1 race bike. It had 2 of them siamesed together in one housing with copper heat sinks. Just had to separate them and modify the housings.
That all worked out and it ran great.....for a while, then the hub motor dropped some of its magnets and blew a wad of molten smokey stuff out of the vent holes.
was on the way to the post office all downhill and never went past 1 third throttle. Had to walk home and get the van.

 

[RIPPERTON]

Wonder what could have broken the stator laminations.
I think a small rock got in through a vent hole.
Ferro Fluid is still there as brown liquid stuff in the stator grooves.

 

[RIPPERTON]

Got the new QS 12kW hub motor at 11kv makes about 2000rpm at 175v.
Resisted the temptation to take the motor apart and modify it with cooling holes
but did drill and tap an M8 hole out near the rim to inject Ferro Fluid.
This hub motor is pretty good and doesnt get over 65C at least in winter.

 

[RIPPERTON]

The motor came with steel axle locks which no matter how tight the nuts are will
always move back and forth going from power to regen. So CNCd up some 16mm alloy axle clamps.
And stuck a thermometer sticker on.

 

[RIPPERTON]

Then did a big range test run and got 280km out of 1 charge. 6 hours of run time.
I set the Kelly minimum battery voltage to 125 but I have never used this function so didnt know how it would act.
I got down to about 130v and the throttle started to have no response and thought crap ive blown the cells...but.
turns out the Kelly was ramping down power and each cell was only at 3.1v which was fine.
Lowest cell voltage according to the manufacturer was 2.75.
Brought it home and set the chargers onto it overnight. 9 hours later it was back up to 176v.
You just cant get range anxiety on this bike.

 

[dominik h]

These steel axle locks are crap. I had the same problems with my 8kw Erider motor. Going from 12kw to 3kw regen and back to power.
I like your solution.

 

[RIPPERTON]

Hey long time.
Ive blown up almost everything on this scooter but now can add Main Contactor to the list.
I powered the Main Contactor straight off the DC-DC as it was booting and it would contact when
the caps were precharged to only about 60v and the contacts inside just schplatzed and wouldnt work anymore.
So I made a new Dropout relay. Probably already exists and took me all day to make.
The boot process is now like this. This Scoot has no 12v battery for reliability, just a DC-DC.
I pull the 2 pole EStop button to engage the Precharge resistor (330 ohm) and boot the DC-DC converter (176v-12v)
The volt meter on the dash shows Controller voltage so I can see the capacitors volting up.
When the ctlr gets to within 5 volts of battery, I push the Momentary button that powers the Dropout Relay.
This in turn powers the Main Contactor and sends full bat voltage to the Ctlr.
The Dropout relay then also powers itself through the diode so I can let go of the mom button.
When I power the system down for storage, both relay and Contactor open circuit and I dont have to rmbr
to switch it off and it wont arc the next time I boot the system to go for a ride.

 

[RIPPERTON]

Overall the Rippy Scoot is very handy for going to the shops cause I dont have to warm it up and the range is mental.
As a bonus the 12kW hub makes it a total weapon in traffic. I love racing people and seeing the look on their face as Im making no noise. TOP SPEED 145kmh.
heres a shot of the Gigavac.

 

[neptronix]

I'd love to see this thing in motion!

 

[RIPPERTON]

Take a quick flight to Sydney and you can have a ride.

 

[Hillhater]

Welcome back Rip…
did you have a good break ?

 

[RIPPERTON]

Thanks HH
yes I went back to my caveman roots and reinvented the 2 stroke engine.

https://www.ktmforums.com/threads/crankcase-injection-on-my-2020-150-exc.142010/

 

[jonescg]

Overall the Rippy Scoot is very handy for going to the shops cause I dont have to warm it up and the range is mental.
As a bonus the 12kW hub makes it a total weapon in traffic. I love racing people and seeing the look on their face as Im making no noise. TOP SPEED 145kmh.
heres a shot of the Gigavac.
View attachment 358918

Awesome - thanks for sharing this image, Danny. A lot of folks don't appreciate just how brutal DC is on switching gear, especially when it's not pre-charging properly.
Can I use this photo in a presentation?
Good to see you back
Chris

 

[RIPPERTON]

Hey Chris, sure show it around. Mechanical carnage is always interesting.
Theres an automatic version of the relay that costs $87 and you dont have to watch anything.
My version is good if you want to save a few bucks but Im sure someone has made it before.

 

[RIPPERTON]

Big thumbs UP for these "StarMax" battery cells, excellent quality and balance throughout the whole pack.
Just did 2 runs to work at 60km per trip. A lot of the run is on highway and I get to draft trucks for efficiency.
The Rippy Scoot pulls around 25-30 amps at 100kmh behind a semi. Pack is 42s-2p 50Ah NMC and 176v toc.
After 241km, the pack is down to 146v at 3.45v per cell. Individual cell variation is from 3.44 to 3.49v.
Didnt check energy consumption. The pack still supplies good current at 146v.
Check first post for link to cells.

 

[dominik h]

30A at 150V looks good. A little lower than the 5kW at 77V I see when I´m driving behind a truck at 93km/h gps speed.
I have to think my next build over and probably raise the cell number to reduce losses.

My scooter got upgraded to a 72V 10kW QS 273 60H hub Motor, as I bought it relativly cheap local without expensive shipping from china.
I now run with up to 1400A phase current and up to 32kW from my 21S battery. 0-100km/h in 6,5seconds, could be faster but my BMS can not handle more current. I tested one of them and it shut off for ever after 13 seconds at 490A. Seems like a software limit, as there is nothing burned or defect inside.
The winding stays always under 100°C and the rim gets much warmer as with the old 5kW or 8kW motor I had installed, so the thermal coupling between windings and rim has improved a lot compared to the older motor versions.
They seem to have reduced the air gap.

Have you ever checked temperatures without ferrofluid?

 

[RIPPERTON]

I have a temp strip on the rim that can get up to 70C and I did put ferro fluid in there but dont know what it looks like now.
It could be dried out. The old 600A Kelly trapezoidal ctlr off the race bike is now 10 years old and a bit coggy off the
standing start so I have to nurse it on hill starts. Once it gets above 7kmh its smooth and has impressive accel.
The Bat has no BMS system at all only a monitoring harness to temporarily plug in a cell log 8 now and then.
Getting up a trucks ass is weird, theres no wind at 100kmh like you are sitting a room.
72v systems are old school, got to go as high voltage as possible like the Stark Vargs are 100s 420v toc.
I only went (low voltage) 176v because I had the ctlr and charger off the race bike. 400v is the norm.