Round tube to Flat surface mounts??
- Thread starter magudaman
- Start date
torker
100 kW
That looks like the saddle on a muffler clamp/ubolt.
Solar Motion
10 mW
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2009
- Messages
- 21
Exactly. Something like this?
There's a few sizes out there. Here's a link to JEGS http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Exhaust-U-Clamps/751060/10002/-1 Will the motor bolt up tight enought not to twist?
There's a few sizes out there. Here's a link to JEGS http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Exhaust-U-Clamps/751060/10002/-1 Will the motor bolt up tight enought not to twist?
vanilla ice
1 MW
Racecar rollcage brackets might work depending on the frame tubing size.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=269
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=269
magudaman
10 kW
Wow that was fast thanks guys! Those all give me idea of what to look for. I was maybe going to try to find something that was made out of rubber materials but these might work as is.
I will using around 4 or 5 mount points so I really don't think it will be moving.
I will using around 4 or 5 mount points so I really don't think it will be moving.
enoob
1 kW
theres a post here on ES that shows how someone used a hockey puck as the material you seek in the diagram. ive been looking for it but cant find it , ill edit it in if i do .
it would work rather good id suspect. take a hole saw same diameter as your bikes tubing and run that through the puck first. then cut a flat side on opposite sides of the puck and then finally cut it right in half . that should net you 2 pieces similar to the red in your pic.
otherwise the roll cage clamp would be my pic as it tries to maintain the integrity of the tubing . The exhuast clamp is designed to crimp the tubing to establish the connection. this could be bad if this is a stressed part of the bikes frame . im not saying dont use the exhuast clamp but use it with something that does not let it crimp your tube.
it would work rather good id suspect. take a hole saw same diameter as your bikes tubing and run that through the puck first. then cut a flat side on opposite sides of the puck and then finally cut it right in half . that should net you 2 pieces similar to the red in your pic.
otherwise the roll cage clamp would be my pic as it tries to maintain the integrity of the tubing . The exhuast clamp is designed to crimp the tubing to establish the connection. this could be bad if this is a stressed part of the bikes frame . im not saying dont use the exhuast clamp but use it with something that does not let it crimp your tube.
is this for a cyclone or a non-hub motor mount? I read that using those kind of clamps will damage the tube and not secure the motor very well. YOu have to find some way of distributing the load over a larger area on the tube. I can't remember what some other people have come up with but this is a common problem. I've studied cyclone motors that's how I know about it.
I think what the people with the problem came up with was just drilling a hole into the tube and securing the motor or whatever it was that way.
I think what the people with the problem came up with was just drilling a hole into the tube and securing the motor or whatever it was that way.
spinningmagnets
100 TW
Regardless of what you end up trying, if you dont get a perfect fit around oval/flared (not perfectly round) tubing, you can fill the voids with JB-Weld, its a very hard resin. You can wax the motor plate and tubing so the JB doesn't stick to it, and you can box-in the adapter with cardboard and duct tape while the gooey JB is hardening.
After the JB is thoroughly cured, you can file/sand it smooth and primer/paint it.
After the JB is thoroughly cured, you can file/sand it smooth and primer/paint it.
heathyoung
100 kW
morph999 said:
Drilling a hole into the tube is a catastrophically bad idea - its a surefire way to crack a frame. A lot of the chinese 2 stroke guys tried this and had that result.
My cyclone is mounted using 3 muffler clamps, with rim tape around the tubing where the clamps are. You can literally stand on the mount and it doesnt move, and have had no problems with crushing the cro-mo frame (old school merida dakar).
magudaman
10 kW
If you interested I will be reviving this thread in a couple of days with new photos and updates: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=3365
Well I will be mounting on a aluminum frame which I believe makes my mounting job a bit more critical. I went down to the auto shop and checked out those exhaust mounts and they are a little more narrow than I think I should use. So my next step is to try and fabricate my own or I might just not use the part I originally asked about. I am not mounting the motor but the motor plate which is 7 inches wide, so the strain of being pulled against the frame will be spread out. For the actual clamps I am going to used several band clamps that will be at least 3/4in wide similar to the one shown below:
But as show here I will be replacing the sleeve side with another threaded end and purposely buying them shorter than necessary and mounting them as so:
Well I will be mounting on a aluminum frame which I believe makes my mounting job a bit more critical. I went down to the auto shop and checked out those exhaust mounts and they are a little more narrow than I think I should use. So my next step is to try and fabricate my own or I might just not use the part I originally asked about. I am not mounting the motor but the motor plate which is 7 inches wide, so the strain of being pulled against the frame will be spread out. For the actual clamps I am going to used several band clamps that will be at least 3/4in wide similar to the one shown below:
But as show here I will be replacing the sleeve side with another threaded end and purposely buying them shorter than necessary and mounting them as so:
Attachments
It is very easy to dent the tubing on a bike frame. A good quality frame has double or triple butted tubing. While it is thick near the ends, the mid sections where you would be clamping is thin, typically less than 1mm material thickness.
So the goal is to spread any load as evenly as possible. The two tactics are:
1. Use a large surface area
2. Use a (slightly) softer material for the bracket so the bracket will deform before the tubing.
Some possibilities:
Wood is a perfectly good material. Get a block of knot free wood with a square section about twice the size of your frame tubing. Find a drill the size of your frame tube. For larger diameters, Foerstner drills give the best surface. Hole saws are ok. Spade bits work best if one uses a drill press.
Drill though the wood. Saw the piece into halves. Test the halves and file to adjust.
For better friction an piece of rubber can be put between the wood and frame tube.
Another option is to use a metal tube with the same ID as the OD of the frame tube. Saw this in halves,
optionally line with rubber, clamp haves back onto frame tube. With this reinforcement a muffler clamp
can be used without denting the frame.
So the goal is to spread any load as evenly as possible. The two tactics are:
1. Use a large surface area
2. Use a (slightly) softer material for the bracket so the bracket will deform before the tubing.
Some possibilities:
Wood is a perfectly good material. Get a block of knot free wood with a square section about twice the size of your frame tubing. Find a drill the size of your frame tube. For larger diameters, Foerstner drills give the best surface. Hole saws are ok. Spade bits work best if one uses a drill press.
Drill though the wood. Saw the piece into halves. Test the halves and file to adjust.
For better friction an piece of rubber can be put between the wood and frame tube.
Another option is to use a metal tube with the same ID as the OD of the frame tube. Saw this in halves,
optionally line with rubber, clamp haves back onto frame tube. With this reinforcement a muffler clamp
can be used without denting the frame.
voodoosand
10 mW
Hi, sorry to resurrect an old dead thread, but in all my searching it's the most similar to my issue.
So I've been riding my ebikes ezee kit and loving it except for one thing: the battery high up on the rear rack.
I'm thinking of mounting it to the top tube, like this (it doesn't fit inside the frame):
using a combination of the CNC anchor from ebikes:
and some sort of top tube clamp, possibly these:
http://problemsolversbike.com/products/direct_mount_front_derailleur_adapter
For reference, the battery is 14cm/5.6" wide, 6 cm/2.4" tall and 35cm/13.75" long. Ignoring standover clearance and the battery width possibly hitting my knees, please poke holes in this plan!
Any suggestions for better clamps, or did anyone in this thread try one of the suggestions?
So I've been riding my ebikes ezee kit and loving it except for one thing: the battery high up on the rear rack.
I'm thinking of mounting it to the top tube, like this (it doesn't fit inside the frame):
using a combination of the CNC anchor from ebikes:
and some sort of top tube clamp, possibly these:
http://problemsolversbike.com/products/direct_mount_front_derailleur_adapter
For reference, the battery is 14cm/5.6" wide, 6 cm/2.4" tall and 35cm/13.75" long. Ignoring standover clearance and the battery width possibly hitting my knees, please poke holes in this plan!
Any suggestions for better clamps, or did anyone in this thread try one of the suggestions?
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