Running black and decker 24v lawn mower on 6s
- Thread starter 1KW
- Start date
dogman dan
1 PW
Well, is the lipo new? , And are you light charging, like to 4.1v? That would be a real world 8 ah to 3.5v. Your sla's, if discharged deeper than 50%, might have been dishing up 12 real world ah. Clearly they were not so bad yet. When I bought my mower, it had new lead, but as a display they sat for 2 years mostly discharged. They were toast, and never went far.
For one, 6s is just a hair light for the 24v mower. I use a similar setup on my 24v B&D but at the end of the summer when the rain comes the grass gets too thick for 6s, and I start using 7s. Using 6s, the blade speed is a tad slow, ( mid discharge, 22.5v) which can mean more amp spikes when you hit a thick spot. But on the other hand, your sla's are likely not much below 24v.
When I go to 7s for thick grass, the distance I can go on 10 ah increases. The blade doesn't get slowed making the motor pull huge amps.
I have a 1/3 acre lot, but only about half the back is in grass. No way can I do the back and front on 10 ah of 6s. But it will easily do either back or front on 10 ah. The best results were to use 20 ah, which lessened the amps seen by the battery, and gave me plenty to do the whole yard, including knocking down a few weeds here and there in the dirt parts of the yard. I'd add 1s only for the thickest parts of the lawn, needing only 5 ah of the 1s.
Also, I found 8s made the blade spin too fast IMO. Any rocks thrown would fly very hard. No need to break the blade with too much rpm.
Your best solution may be to buy one 3s pack, and one 6s pack. Run 15 ah 6s, and if needed add 1s. You can easily rebuild the 3s pack into a 15 ah 1s pack.
For one, 6s is just a hair light for the 24v mower. I use a similar setup on my 24v B&D but at the end of the summer when the rain comes the grass gets too thick for 6s, and I start using 7s. Using 6s, the blade speed is a tad slow, ( mid discharge, 22.5v) which can mean more amp spikes when you hit a thick spot. But on the other hand, your sla's are likely not much below 24v.
When I go to 7s for thick grass, the distance I can go on 10 ah increases. The blade doesn't get slowed making the motor pull huge amps.
I have a 1/3 acre lot, but only about half the back is in grass. No way can I do the back and front on 10 ah of 6s. But it will easily do either back or front on 10 ah. The best results were to use 20 ah, which lessened the amps seen by the battery, and gave me plenty to do the whole yard, including knocking down a few weeds here and there in the dirt parts of the yard. I'd add 1s only for the thickest parts of the lawn, needing only 5 ah of the 1s.
Also, I found 8s made the blade spin too fast IMO. Any rocks thrown would fly very hard. No need to break the blade with too much rpm.
Your best solution may be to buy one 3s pack, and one 6s pack. Run 15 ah 6s, and if needed add 1s. You can easily rebuild the 3s pack into a 15 ah 1s pack.
dogman dan
1 PW
Yes, too much will overheat the motor pretty quick, as well as being more dangerous. Don't want to break off a chunk of blade if you hit a stick.
The mower, if run too hard too long will protect itself, there is an overheat breaker on the motor. It will reset when the motor cools.
I don't have much trouble with the overheat tripping if I run 7s. But I did have it overheat pretty quick trying to run 10s.
But for sure, I found that the big amps spikes when the blade slows will hurt your capacity, so switching to 7s when the grass gets thick helps make my battery last.
I love the light mower, like pushing an empty baby buggy rather than a heavy mower. I found 20 ah a really good size for doing the whole yard front and back. Less sag, so the battery can handle those thick spots better with full voltage all the time.
The mower, if run too hard too long will protect itself, there is an overheat breaker on the motor. It will reset when the motor cools.
I don't have much trouble with the overheat tripping if I run 7s. But I did have it overheat pretty quick trying to run 10s.
But for sure, I found that the big amps spikes when the blade slows will hurt your capacity, so switching to 7s when the grass gets thick helps make my battery last.
I love the light mower, like pushing an empty baby buggy rather than a heavy mower. I found 20 ah a really good size for doing the whole yard front and back. Less sag, so the battery can handle those thick spots better with full voltage all the time.
Lebowski
10 MW
both are 24V, but the lipo is 10Ah and the lead 17Ah
Isn't it obvious ?
Isn't it obvious ?
dogman dan
1 PW
And 6s is 3v lower too, so a few less wh that way.
If the lead is newish, then there would be more usable capacity in the lead. Bear in mind, if you practice undercharge/ stop at 3.6v the lipo only has about 8 ah in it.
Still, I'm surprised he could mow the whole lawn on the lead, even when it was new. When I got my mower, the lead was really thrashed, I could only squeeze about 5 ah from the big bricks. They had sat in the store on display for several years.
If the lead is newish, then there would be more usable capacity in the lead. Bear in mind, if you practice undercharge/ stop at 3.6v the lipo only has about 8 ah in it.
Still, I'm surprised he could mow the whole lawn on the lead, even when it was new. When I got my mower, the lead was really thrashed, I could only squeeze about 5 ah from the big bricks. They had sat in the store on display for several years.
dogman dan
1 PW
FWIW the tools that run on the drill battery packs have a plug that is exactly like a male lampcord. So I put the pack in a purse, and run the cord to the tool. Just mark the cord, so you plug it in with the right side facing up, and get + on the right wire.
