RV AC electrical 110/220 crossing hots

Solid wire in a moving vehicle might be a bad idea. I see stranded wire in cars, trucks, airplanes, bicycles, etc. I see solid wire in buildings that don't vibrate and move.

Here are 20 different 7 conductor shielded wire to look at. Sold by the foot.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-electrical-wire/=10bto6x

I love McMaster-Carr. Unbelievable fast UPS ground shipping.
 
I know nothing about wiring RVs. In buildings neutral and ground are tied together in the main service panel ONLY. In sub panels neutral must float.

Hot summer day. Nutspecial has no shoes. One hand on RV. Feet on some wet ground. Will Nutspecial make a nice ground for a vehicle on rubber tires?

The electrical code is how things should be. Lots of good safe practices in there. Is there a electrical code for vehicles with 110V/220V? Don't follow instructions written by some clown on the internet. Especially if Marty wrote it.

I still say
marty said:
Don't tie two 110V legs of 220V generator together. DON'T DO IT!
One reason is because we all need to do things the same way. If you should die or sell the vehicle, others will be trying to figure out which wire goes where. Same as you are trying to figure out whats what in your camper. In the US. Usually RED and BLACK are 220V hots. WHITE is neutral. GREEN is ground. We all need to be the same.

I can't imagine a 220V generator has two 110V lines that are the same :? Connect a volt meter to the two 110V legs. What do you see?

Alan B said:
It might be safer to set it up so the RV AC input plugs into the generator, or into shore power, or into the inverter. That way the one plug becomes the transfer safety switch. This could be a 240V plug so the generator would not have to be rewired. An adapter to the park power would be used, and the inverter output would be wired to both 120V circuits in the 240 socket for that source. No double male cables should be used, they are not safe.
This seems like the simplest way to have 3 sources of power. Not the way I would do it. In other RVs does the generator come on when needed automatically? In off the grid solar houses, I think generator comes on to charge batteries when sun is not shining or when needed?
 
Thanks for the input man! I'll be doing a writeup and a video of the electrical system when I get it done, hopefully by the newyear.

To get the genny operational, I ripped apart and put it back as per the stock manual i found online. I did not test for 220 at that time, but did assume it would be present. I've now tested, and confirm 110 at each leg, but nothing across the legs, so that leads me to believe coils are paralleled, and it's safe to cross legs for switched inverter tie. I will keep grid input completely isolated with a simple plug.

This is not what I'd expect from the genny, but that's the way it is, and is of no danger to anyone. Simply means 220 appliance wouldn't work, even if there was a breaker and a reason to use it.

I'll do a more research into isolated/floating grounding/neutrals if I'm unsure of safety, that's absolutely right, even 110 can be quite deadly in situations of unprotected ground fault.
 
marty said:
nutspecial said:
I'd like to try running a 4 pair Cat wire as the extension which will be much thinner.

Thinner gauge NO. Use the same gauge or thicker. How about 18/7 or 18/8 thermostat wire?

Shielding? I don't know?

I am learning about wire. Thermostat wire is for sale everywhere. Great for door bells too.

Shielded cable is double shielded with foil and braiding to prevent electromagnetic interference (EMI).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_interference
That be making the radio static.

Keep the music wires away from other wires.
 
Hey I just wanted to thank Marty Markz and Alan B for your help. The Rv was a fun project that I planned to put on the road this past year but didn't. It came out really nice and I just sold it yesterday to a young family of 4 headed for CO. It was really fun and I learned alot, but never intended to travel in that big beast, and it wasn't even quite that natural or efficient compared to something more self-designed/built.

Just fyi/posterity, I sold it for $4100 w/
Chevy 454 in good condition
60/60/60 gallon fresh/gray/blk
100/100ah cabin/veh battery
Triple fuel fridge/freezer
2 gas forced air furnaces
Air conditioning
Microwave

Extras included:
New on demand gas hot water, piping and pump
New dvd gps, hd radio headdeck and speakers
New 12v charger and 1500w 120v inverter
New wood flooring, carpet, counters
32" lcd and wall mount
He also wanted all the extras which I included for another $500.
Extra's available:
New Led lighting throughout
New 200ah additional 12v batteries
2x buddy heaters
New additional 40gal fresh tank
Rocket stove woodstove and hearth

I basically broke even on money invested. There was alot of nickel/dime stuff and a fair amount of time going over it. Alot of fun though, I learned alot, and I think those people were really happy with the whole package.

I made a frame for the old Kohler Genny and it now sits weatherized on a pallet at my shop. It's crazy how big and heavy it is compared to the new 4kw offerings, but that can be a benefit too.
The coils are wired parallel to deliver max amperage in one 110/120v. I ended up replacing brushes air filter and condensor.

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Idk why, but I felt like makin a vid of it pulled out and running some crap lol.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4--OeWIoJg
[youtube]A4--OeWIoJg[/youtube]

A few pix of the rv.

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View attachment 4
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Sorry to see it go, cept it was overkill for me and I wouldn't really be using it anytime soon.
 
I just want to sell some of these PA properties (Seven units total) and buy some ozark land to build on, as self-sufficent as possible. I learned enough to be certain an Rv isn't for me - a camper or even a trailer would be a better choice for temporary housing while self-building an eco friendly house. It was just a good deal and I was bored at the time lol.

Rubber Tramp Rendezvous
I never heard that phrase, and will look into it.
 
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