Warning: If you are buying a new Sabvoton, it is a clone and prone to dying prematurely. Sabvoton closed their doors in late 2014 and everything newer than that is a Chinese knock-off. Quality in these controllers tends to be very poor and they fail often. I don't recommend buying a new Sabvoton controller. About 50% of them die withing months of purchase!
NOTE: This review is for an MQCON from 2014, NOT a new Sabvoton controller.
I recently picked up a used MQCON controller and since I was collecting information on it, I thought I would post that information here. I've found that docs on these controllers isn't exactly easy to come by and then I went to the savoton.com site a few minutes ago and this happened. Has the company gone out of business? When I google for them, they come up fifth in line after amazon and other sites. WEIRD??? IT did later come back up, but then the site was significantly different than before. It's almost like Sabvoton closed up shop and then someone bought up the company and started over again.
I have been looking around for a good while for docs for this controller and finally found some. Here they are. I haven't had the chance to verify if any of this is correct or not.
Older style stuff...
I also took my controller apart to look inside it. Here's some pics of its internals. If anyone knows what MCU these controllers use, please post it in this thread. These controllers are pretty big at 6"x7"x1.5"! They use 24 IRF4115 mosfets.
Here's the MCU...but it's covered in epoxy.
I later came across a friend with the same controller and asked him to pop off the cover and his wasn't covered in epoxy so I got a couple of decent pictures of his MCU.
I also ran across this set of notes somewhere. I apologize if I'm plagiarizing...It's not intentional...I'm just putting everything I found in one place for who ever needs it.
* Lack Volt = Think of this as the low voltage cut off, set this to the minimum voltage you want the controller to cut off power.
Example: Your using a 48v battery, you want to set this around 42V
* Over Volt = Over voltage protection, I would set this to 95v or slightly above your battery’s maximum voltage. The maximum setting is 95v.
Example: Your using a 48V and you to set this around ~55v
* Rated DC Current = This is the continuous rating for Battery amps, which dictates power. Set this Rated DC current = Max DC current or lower than Max DC Current. Increasing this number will increase wattage power and top speed.
Example: Rated DC Current 50A x 48V = 2400W!
* Max DC Current = Maximum amount of Battery amps. Increasing this number will increase wattage power and top speed. But keep this equal to or higher than Rated DC Current.
Example: Rated DC Current 50A and Max DC Current 70A
* Limit DC Current = Set this to match the Rated DC Current
* Rated Phase Current = Phase amps, this controls the continuous amount of phase amps going into the motor. More phase amps will increase torque and acceleration. Generally you want this higher than * Battery Amps, about 2-2.5x higher, but tune to your setup accordingly.
* Max Phase Current = The maximum amount of phase current, keep this equal to or higher than the Rated Phase Current.
* Electric Brake = Enable for Regen, only applies to Direct Drive Hub Motors.
* Flux Weakening = Enable to increase top speed at the expensive of efficiency. Also known as field weakening. Do not recommend higher than 50A otherwise you can damage or destablize the motor’s magnets.
* Flux weakening current = 0-150A, the higher this setting the higher you can boost the top speed of your motor. Technically this counters EMF of the motor and forces the motor to run at a higher RPM.
* Electric Brake Ph current = 0-200A This controls how strong the regen will be I generally set this at 100A on a 17? moto wheel for street riding and 150A for track riding. 26? Wheel you would want 80A or higher. Be warned, setting this too high will skid the rear tire upon deceleration and can fish tail the rear. Again, tune according to your motor and wheel setup.
* Pn = Very important to set the correct number of pole pairs for the motor otherwise you will have poor performance. This is the number of magnets in your motor divided by two.
* Hall Angle Test = Very import to run the Hall Angle Test map the hall sensors with the controller. Gone are the days of trying various hall and phase combinations.
* Try a phase combo then click enable hall angle test, and change control mode to hall angle test. Click OK, then also change the test given current setting from 10A-28A, your motor should spin forward. * Very Important to suspend the bike, because the motor will spin on its own for a few minutes.
* If Hall Status = Passed then congrats you found the right combination! The Hall Angle setting should have changed to the proper “degree”. Click OK then yes on parameter store. Restart the controller and take it for a spin!
* If the motor spins backwards change the Motor direction setting under “Motor”
* If the Hall Test fails then change a different phase combination and run the hall test again.
* To save the settings, you have to click SET! > DEBUG > Parameter Store > Yes and click OK. That will save the settings.
If anyone needs the software or the USB adapter drivers, PM me, I have them too.
an actual review of the controller to come later.