silentflight
100 W
Wheazel said:
Samsung 25R/LG 18650HE2/ Sony VTC5 high power 18650 battery
- Thread starter Ebikebert
- Start date
It has not ports. All You can do is attaching the hand probes inside the machine, and could exchange instead of the main poles. also the food switch must be done hand craft exchanging the switch is has for the pulses, and attaching a foot pedal connected as a switch
Wheazel
10 kW
My welder is named Sunkko 788+
I cant comment on the welders quality as I have only built one smaller pack som far, with the strips that were included.
I cant comment on the welders quality as I have only built one smaller pack som far, with the strips that were included.
Wheazel
10 kW
Pictures of mod. Can easily replace tips if that should be required.
*Note that a support is placed at the stock coppertip location, to avoid the brassblock fork to be compressed.
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*Note that a support is placed at the stock coppertip location, to avoid the brassblock fork to be compressed.
silentflight
100 W
Thanks Wheazel!
The photos are very helpful. I'm glad it worked for your pack- were they 18650s?
Do you know what thickness the provided nickel tabs you used were?
The photos are very helpful. I'm glad it worked for your pack- were they 18650s?
Do you know what thickness the provided nickel tabs you used were?
Wheazel
10 kW
Yes the cells are 25r's. Supplied nickeltabs were only 0,1mm thick and thats what ive used so far.
Got 0,15mm coming in the mail soon I hope.
Before I made these cables I did a quick and dirty test with 8mm2 cables and they got hot after say 5-10welds and I had to set the current very high to get good welds.
That was ok for that moment tho as I welded most of the pack with those. However when I got some 20mm2 cable and made the pictured setup, I could see a big increase in weldpower at the tips.
So 0,15mm should be no problem whatsoever. According to specs the welder handles 0,2mm aswell. But as mentioned earlier, I cant say anything regarding the quality of the welder as I've used it so little.
Got 0,15mm coming in the mail soon I hope.
Before I made these cables I did a quick and dirty test with 8mm2 cables and they got hot after say 5-10welds and I had to set the current very high to get good welds.
That was ok for that moment tho as I welded most of the pack with those. However when I got some 20mm2 cable and made the pictured setup, I could see a big increase in weldpower at the tips.
So 0,15mm should be no problem whatsoever. According to specs the welder handles 0,2mm aswell. But as mentioned earlier, I cant say anything regarding the quality of the welder as I've used it so little.
silentflight
100 W
My wish list for an inexpensive spot welder -
electrodes on cables
foot pedal
double pulse
adjustable power
capacitator discharge
works on 0.10mm, 0.15mm, and 0.20mm nickel tabs for 18650s
I've been getting along with my older batteries for too long- partly because it has been difficult to source 18650s and partly because soldering is such a pain and the solder/welding free solutions aren't quite ready. I'm looking to buy a spot welder because I don't have time to make one myself. It would be an enjoyable project if I did.
I wish all of us on the sphere were in the same city and could actively cooperate. Imagine all the things that would come out of our garage!
Wheazel, do you know if the internal power source for welding is based on a transformer or capacitors? Is it easy to look inside the box?
Which supplier did you buy it from? There are many sellers of this unit on alibaba / aliexpress.
I will probably need to add a 220 volt line in my place to power my welder- not something you guys in the EU need to worry about.
electrodes on cables
foot pedal
double pulse
adjustable power
capacitator discharge
works on 0.10mm, 0.15mm, and 0.20mm nickel tabs for 18650s
I've been getting along with my older batteries for too long- partly because it has been difficult to source 18650s and partly because soldering is such a pain and the solder/welding free solutions aren't quite ready. I'm looking to buy a spot welder because I don't have time to make one myself. It would be an enjoyable project if I did.
I wish all of us on the sphere were in the same city and could actively cooperate. Imagine all the things that would come out of our garage!
Wheazel, do you know if the internal power source for welding is based on a transformer or capacitors? Is it easy to look inside the box?
Which supplier did you buy it from? There are many sellers of this unit on alibaba / aliexpress.
I will probably need to add a 220 volt line in my place to power my welder- not something you guys in the EU need to worry about.
Ohbse
10 kW
silentflight said:
I built one powered by two 65ah car batteries in parallel with a microcontrolled bank of mosfets. Adjustable, reliable (completed my 1.8kwh pack without breaking a sweat) and capable of welding anything. Mine uses 35mm2 cables, 6mm solid copper electrodes. My battery is all 0.3mm 8mm nickel strip. Total BOM (excluding the batteries) was ~$70 USD from memory. There's a thread on here about building mosfet switched battery powered welders with a number of successes.
okashira
10 kW
Ohbse said:
Did you snub your mosfets, if so how?
how many, what type?
douglashart
100 W
I m trying to buy the dn-5 from cart 10, but they say it weighs 23000 grams and theyre asking almost $400 for shipping. can anyone tell me the weight of their dn-5 or the dn- 10? I find it hard to believe it weighs 50 lbs.
litespeed
100 kW
The shipping is 400 bux and the reason I chose to build my own. Their guarantee is only good if you ship it back so in case it came dead on arrival it would cost 400 bux to get your 400 bux back.....shipping is not refundable! Scared me a bunch!!!
It's a nice unit if it shows up good to go but I already got burned on a similar purchase....didn't feel lucky on this one.
Tom
It's a nice unit if it shows up good to go but I already got burned on a similar purchase....didn't feel lucky on this one.
Tom
douglashart
100 W
thnx guys sadly I too will decline
RiverRat
1 W
shipping weight for my dn-10 was 21.2 kg and shipping to Australia was 259.00 US
Dn-10 has taken me a little to get used to using the .3mm strip.
I found that even at a low setting of 1 on "turbo" switch set to on . (what is that mode called?) I was haing inconsistent welds and often blowing holes though it. But turns out that i had the copper tips to sharp or so it think because after dulling them i can turn it up to above 3 with no issues and really solid welds.
View attachment 3
I ordered some 18650 insulating rings aswell and thanks for the suggestion Nobuo. I did expect them to be a little more durable though and be fire proof but they burn easy with a lighter or if you get a weld too hot on the battery. Id be inclined to make my own with a hole puncher using something more durable next time ... sugestions...?
Lastly this is a mock up of my pack as it stands right now. Am I good to go welding the rest of this up? Is there anything i've missed or should consider?
Cheers
Dn-10 has taken me a little to get used to using the .3mm strip.
I found that even at a low setting of 1 on "turbo" switch set to on . (what is that mode called?) I was haing inconsistent welds and often blowing holes though it. But turns out that i had the copper tips to sharp or so it think because after dulling them i can turn it up to above 3 with no issues and really solid welds.
View attachment 3
I ordered some 18650 insulating rings aswell and thanks for the suggestion Nobuo. I did expect them to be a little more durable though and be fire proof but they burn easy with a lighter or if you get a weld too hot on the battery. Id be inclined to make my own with a hole puncher using something more durable next time ... sugestions...?
Lastly this is a mock up of my pack as it stands right now. Am I good to go welding the rest of this up? Is there anything i've missed or should consider?
Cheers
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
nice pic of the bike.
are ther 25R? if so,should have some serious herbs
for the cell protectors, iv thought of sharpening a couple stainless tubes, different diameters, and using them to punch thin suade leather.(i made a similar tool once to punch thongs to make airgun flights)
to this day i cannot think of a readily available material that is as abrasion resistant,heat resistant,non-conductive and generally as awesome to work with as leather.
if anyone does, please chime in
are ther 25R? if so,should have some serious herbs
for the cell protectors, iv thought of sharpening a couple stainless tubes, different diameters, and using them to punch thin suade leather.(i made a similar tool once to punch thongs to make airgun flights)
to this day i cannot think of a readily available material that is as abrasion resistant,heat resistant,non-conductive and generally as awesome to work with as leather.
if anyone does, please chime in
Sorry but welds look ugly to me. You shouldn't have those blackish stuff around the welds. Also, if you are burning that paper, damn :lol: As I've said, 0.3 mm is too much for these cells. You could have used thinner nickel tape and then just connect them in series with copper wire.
Ohbse
10 kW
okashira said:
irf1324 x6, no snub if I correctly understand what snub means. MCP1407 gate driver. 100ohm gate resistors (one per mosfet) plus 10k pull down. Has done about 4000 welds, only failure has been the first arduino I was running it with - randomly failed for unknown reason after handful of welds. Replacement seems quite happy. Logic level power supply from another 18650 pack (of course) supplying 12v to the gate driver. Only limiting factor is heat in the electrodes which builds up over time. Maximum mosfet temperature reached with no airflow around 65c, fan on - not much above 40c.
0.3mm nickel worked great on my pack, no such issues with burning or weld quality.
riverrat, doesn't the swingarm clash with the battery (or bms far right) 
what material do you use for welding? It makes a difference if you work with pure nickel, or nickel coated steel band (which is often called hilumin).
when i use hilumin i also have little blackish stuff around the dots and the tips needs to be cleaned every 100 welds or so. with pure nickel i noticed a cleaner weld but it needs a bit more welding time on my DN-5.
As riba2233 mentionend, i also think its NO good idea to use 0,3mm on 18650cells because the cells itself are normally only about 0,3mm thick and there is risk of leakage. (think of vibrations during riding which can pull on the welds).
check out my thread about welding 18650 batteries with the DN-5 welder:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=67903
what material do you use for welding? It makes a difference if you work with pure nickel, or nickel coated steel band (which is often called hilumin).
when i use hilumin i also have little blackish stuff around the dots and the tips needs to be cleaned every 100 welds or so. with pure nickel i noticed a cleaner weld but it needs a bit more welding time on my DN-5.
As riba2233 mentionend, i also think its NO good idea to use 0,3mm on 18650cells because the cells itself are normally only about 0,3mm thick and there is risk of leakage. (think of vibrations during riding which can pull on the welds).
check out my thread about welding 18650 batteries with the DN-5 welder:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=67903
RiverRat
1 W
ridethelightning said:nice pic of the bike.
are ther 25R? if so,should have some serious herbs
for the cell protectors, iv thought of sharpening a couple stainless tubes, different diameters, and using them to punch thin suade leather.(i made a similar tool once to punch thongs to make airgun flights)
to this day i cannot think of a readily available material that is as abrasion resistant,heat resistant,non-conductive and generally as awesome to work with as leather.
if anyone does, please chime in
25r yes. Good idea the leather sounds viable to me. I plant to wrap and stitch the case with leatheralso.
riba2233 said:
They were the first efforts with the overly sharp tips. After rounding of the copper welding tips all the welds are now strong and uniform .No blowouts post tip correction.
madin88 said:riverrat, doesn't the swingarm clash with the battery (or bms far right)
what material do you use for welding? It makes a difference if you work with pure nickel, or nickel coated steel band (which is often called hilumin).
when i use hilumin i also have little blackish stuff around the dots and the tips needs to be cleaned every 100 welds or so. with pure nickel i noticed a cleaner weld but it needs a bit more welding time on my DN-5.
As riba2233 mentionend, i also think its NO good idea to use 0,3mm on 18650cells because the cells itself are normally only about 0,3mm thick and there is risk of leakage. (think of vibrations during riding which can pull on the welds).
check out my thread about welding 18650 batteries with the DN-5 welder:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=67903
The swing arm shouldn't clash with the bms. The bms can also shrink down 15mm top to bottom and think i can make it fit. It took me a while to find where i bought it but from here http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-18650-battery-nickel-strip-0-3mm-nickel-plate-18650-26650-cell-nickel-belt-Lithium/2050756060.html looks to be pure nickel.
No probs after tip flattening
So what are the implications if you do compromise the wall of an 18650? is there a way to correct it? Chuck the battery away or solder over the hole as I hate to admit I did on one cell ?
BoomerChomsi
1 kW
Is it harmful when cell are heated while shrinking heatshrink?
I mean I am using 10cm (diameter), so a lot of heat is needed to shrink....
I mean I am using 10cm (diameter), so a lot of heat is needed to shrink....
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
i doubt it. there isnt enough thermal mass in the shrink to really heat the cell much i would think.BoomerChomsi said:
where did you get the large shrink if i may ask?
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