recumpence
1 GW
Yes, you can do that. That would give you 12S3P pack configuration. It will charge fine that way.
Matt
Matt
Schwinn/32 10 Build Conclusions
- Thread starter SoSauty
- Start date
Pack, 3 cell, so 2 of these for 30$ each for 6S 5ah : 60 $
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7298
Charger, I have never used the venom stuff, but i can say that i sure like this one, more expensive but it's very versatile.. stay on the page a while and they offer it for 180 $..
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=11597
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7298
Charger, I have never used the venom stuff, but i can say that i sure like this one, more expensive but it's very versatile.. stay on the page a while and they offer it for 180 $..
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=11597
SoSauty said:Yeah, guess I've gotta keep an eye on the CA,wonder about a HV120 ESC? Whether an Astro 32 10 can run a continous 39-40mph with the right gearing is yet to be seen, maybe Y-pedal has insite here.
The 3210 can sustain 40mph on the flats, Mine is a 6 turn, but i'm in the maritimes, average 20 to 25 celcius in summer and 15 celcius temps allow things to cool fairly well, in texas heat it may be another thing to consider. I've gotten my Astro past 100 celcius, the matt-drive itself is a good heat sink, i could smell the belt cooking ! lol... but it takes it !..
it's the accelerating that heats things up nicely, on a race track being on the brakes, throttle, etc, pulling 100 amps+ accelerating as much as possible shifting thru the gears, get some heat sinks !!!!
I bet your setup will be more efficient, my Nuvinci is nice in that i can fine tune the motor rpm under load to pull the amps i want , very smooth, but the nuvi makes heat and is heavy, a geared hub or good derailleur would waste less energy.
jmygann, making the competitors compete, the exact batt for $15 less & charger for $40 less than the Venom site 
Have to update page1 price list so others won't pay out as I have. However, the Venom staff is there as customer backup.
Heat sinking, now there's 2 pages of chatting yet to come.
Think I'll get the i-charger Y-pedal, doesn't look as the Venom charger can be set for 4V to 4.25V charging and its wattage is limited to about 180W :| Be cheaper than getting the 3rd Vemom chager 'an 3rd Lipo batt pack.
You're getting my hopes up to get the little 32 10 Astro raceable. Don't know if I can 2 speed the rear end with chainrings yet, but seems the slipper clutch 2 speeder combo could be viable on the Tucson track (Spooky Tooth). Thinking 22-33mph and 28-41mph, (pedal up with slipper clutch at the start). Been going back and forth with these 2 concepts:
1) use the singleator on chain up near the FW and use a Front type derailer back by the LH drive sprockets,
I'd have to fix the F derailer upside down and get it sized to specific sprockets. Am uncertain if the fixed singleator/chain tensionser would handle the chain being 1/8" (3.25mm) off center on sprockets just 12" to the rear.
or
2) fix another rear type derailer near the LH drive sprockets,
Not sure if the lo-hi stops can be adjusted down to handle just 2 sprockets; worried that in the excitement of a race I'd over shift and lose the chain on the 1st straight
Last nite I charged to 4.1V and balanced each pack yet had to babysit/watch the charger to cut it off at the right time. Charged/balanced each cell individually with the 2 chargers set at 2amp. Took over 3hrs to charge from 55% to 97% :| Not acceptable if one only has 2 batt packs and on a timeline.
Question: if the batt packs are harnessed and I set the charger at 7amp max, does it hit 1 cell a time making the 7amp excessive? Am I limited to 4amp for fast charging or can I get by with the highest 7amp rate when charging multi-batts?
Have to update page1 price list so others won't pay out as I have. However, the Venom staff is there as customer backup.Heat sinking, now there's 2 pages of chatting yet to come.
Think I'll get the i-charger Y-pedal, doesn't look as the Venom charger can be set for 4V to 4.25V charging and its wattage is limited to about 180W :| Be cheaper than getting the 3rd Vemom chager 'an 3rd Lipo batt pack.
You're getting my hopes up to get the little 32 10 Astro raceable. Don't know if I can 2 speed the rear end with chainrings yet, but seems the slipper clutch 2 speeder combo could be viable on the Tucson track (Spooky Tooth). Thinking 22-33mph and 28-41mph, (pedal up with slipper clutch at the start). Been going back and forth with these 2 concepts:
1) use the singleator on chain up near the FW and use a Front type derailer back by the LH drive sprockets,
I'd have to fix the F derailer upside down and get it sized to specific sprockets. Am uncertain if the fixed singleator/chain tensionser would handle the chain being 1/8" (3.25mm) off center on sprockets just 12" to the rear.
or
2) fix another rear type derailer near the LH drive sprockets,
Not sure if the lo-hi stops can be adjusted down to handle just 2 sprockets; worried that in the excitement of a race I'd over shift and lose the chain on the 1st straight
Last nite I charged to 4.1V and balanced each pack yet had to babysit/watch the charger to cut it off at the right time. Charged/balanced each cell individually with the 2 chargers set at 2amp. Took over 3hrs to charge from 55% to 97% :| Not acceptable if one only has 2 batt packs and on a timeline.
Question: if the batt packs are harnessed and I set the charger at 7amp max, does it hit 1 cell a time making the 7amp excessive? Am I limited to 4amp for fast charging or can I get by with the highest 7amp rate when charging multi-batts?
Jeesh.. gotta ask, why black and red wire pairs from the Astro Should I pigtail all 3 red motor wires to the 1 8ga red controller wire? Sans with black wires?
(edit: OK, easy 'an understand brushless RC a bit better, didn't know the Wye/Delta set up was right there, 10Turn could = 6T performance, just like that )
(Oh, there's an extra pair of small wires coming from the throttle interface, the tape on it states "input 12 to 60V", doesn't seem to have an application anywhere; if I can tie it out of the way, all is well, if it's needed let me know thanks always)
Should I pigtail all 3 red motor wires to the 1 8ga red controller wire? Sans with black wires?
(edit: OK, easy 'an understand brushless RC a bit better, didn't know the Wye/Delta set up was right there, 10Turn could = 6T performance, just like that
)(Oh, there's an extra pair of small wires coming from the throttle interface, the tape on it states "input 12 to 60V", doesn't seem to have an application anywhere; if I can tie it out of the way, all is well, if it's needed let me know
thanks always)
etard
100 kW
I'm sure Matt will chime in here on the Astro, but the reason for six wires is because some people wanted the option to run thier motors in different configurations, delta or wye. I'm pretty sure you just want to tie the black and red pair coming out of each hole to one of the three wires coming off the controller. The controller has two wires on one side and three on the other, the two wires go to the battery and the three go to the motor wires.
recumpence
1 GW
Delta wind is higher RPM per volt. For Delta, you do, indeed, pair the black and red in each hole to one controller lead. That gives 3 pairs of wires acting as 3 single wires. That is the highest RPM per volt. Wye is different. For Wye you tie all 3 of one color wire together (say the RED wires for sake of discussion). So, all 3 red wires are tied together in one bundle and set to the side. Then the black wires are run to the controller. Your gearing is setup for Wye at this point. To run Delta, you will need to gear the bike down (larger rear chainring). Delta has 1.7 times higher RPM, and 1.7 times the power. But, you need to gear it down 1.7 times as well or it will be geared way too fast.
Matt
Matt
12/27 update: Am making slow progress, trying to mount the Lipo's in the bike triangle only single wide. Bit late in asking, but am I going to be OK using 45amp anderson connectors from Lipo's to controller to Astro? Throttle use may go as hi as 90amp
Orca's make black an' white look goood. . . Bike work stand a Christmas present :lol:
((Ypedal, double connectors, hey, that means amps split during parallel & volts double in series, trying to think of that all day!! I'm going to look up where's NB on google earth; by Maine & Nova Scotia
))
Orca's make black an' white look goood. . . Bike work stand a Christmas present :lol:
((Ypedal, double connectors, hey, that means amps split during parallel & volts double in series, trying to think of that all day!! I'm going to look up where's NB on google earth; by Maine & Nova Scotia
))
double them up !! ++ and -- :wink:
Unusual problem, wanted to make the batt box from conveyor belt material as it's fire resistent, sorta tough, and sorta rubbery. Well, I tried 3 different spray paints and they all caused the surface to become a bit gooey All nite under a fan didn't get the paint to set. After a puzzled week tried an oil based primer, success! in an hour it dried. I'm baffled as to why enamel piles up soft and sticky at least for weeks at a time.
This batt box holder is narrow and can fit in the triangle but only holds 15Ahr. Think my 2nd batt box (20Ahr) will be a plain ole' rectangle, lots simpler.
Most the soldering for connectors is done, maybe 2 weeks to its' maiden voyage. Some issues getting what must be 6ga aluminum wiring from the ESC to connect to ?18ga copper wiring of the Astro. The throttle to ESC is soldered direct without connectors.
No way the big Andersons were gonna fit on the motor wires so took Ypedals' suggestion to double up on the 45amp connectors. Took some doing as the 6ga ESC wires were too big for 2 of the small Andersons. I'd split the 6ga, tin some solder into the fray, then grind the wire down. Interesting that the solder formed a nice smooth shiny surface as I grinded. Got it fit the connectors with no loose wire ends anywhere.
(Edit note: I've realized work to be saved and better connection without the connectors; the reason for doing so now is I'm contemplating upgrading the build in 2011, different motor in possibly different location.)
Building this little Astro is motivational, had to get the hang of soldering copper. Next need to continue to learn metal fabrication, then brazing & welding, fiberglass casting and 3D drawing w/ SketchUp.
All nite under a fan didn't get the paint to set. After a puzzled week tried an oil based primer, success! in an hour it dried. I'm baffled as to why enamel piles up soft and sticky at least for weeks at a time.
This batt box holder is narrow and can fit in the triangle but only holds 15Ahr. Think my 2nd batt box (20Ahr) will be a plain ole' rectangle, lots simpler.
Most the soldering for connectors is done, maybe 2 weeks to its' maiden voyage. Some issues getting what must be 6ga aluminum wiring from the ESC to connect to ?18ga copper wiring of the Astro. The throttle to ESC is soldered direct without connectors.
No way the big Andersons were gonna fit on the motor wires so took Ypedals' suggestion to double up on the 45amp connectors. Took some doing as the 6ga ESC wires were too big for 2 of the small Andersons. I'd split the 6ga, tin some solder into the fray, then grind the wire down. Interesting that the solder formed a nice smooth shiny surface as I grinded. Got it fit the connectors with no loose wire ends anywhere.
(Edit note: I've realized work to be saved and better connection without the connectors; the reason for doing so now is I'm contemplating upgrading the build in 2011, different motor in possibly different location.)
Building this little Astro is motivational, had to get the hang of soldering copper. Next need to continue to learn metal fabrication, then brazing & welding, fiberglass casting and 3D drawing w/ SketchUp.
dontsendbubbamail
10 kW
- Joined
- May 28, 2008
- Messages
- 718
Being hard wired sometimes has it's disadvantes ( like when you want to work on the bike or relocate a part ) .. but for the motor/controller i went with solder straight up.. tin both wires, then lay them side by side iron in the middle to melt them both and voila.. no connector losses !
Doubling up the PP45's is convenient when you run double lenght 12 or 10 gauge wires with a PP on each..
like :
Doubling up the PP45's is convenient when you run double lenght 12 or 10 gauge wires with a PP on each..
like :
Try Kilz brand primer. It is a cover-all kind of primer that wonder of wonders, actually sands well.
I haven't found anything it can't cover. A buddy of mine used to paint wax with it!
Bonus, it cures in like an hour or less. After the prime coat though, you are stuck with oil paints, which for our purposes, isn't such a bad thing.
Katou
ps. you could use a super adherent primer (for residential use, like Bin 1-2-3) to then topcoat with latex, but why would you want to?
I haven't found anything it can't cover. A buddy of mine used to paint wax with it!
Bonus, it cures in like an hour or less. After the prime coat though, you are stuck with oil paints, which for our purposes, isn't such a bad thing.
Katou
ps. you could use a super adherent primer (for residential use, like Bin 1-2-3) to then topcoat with latex, but why would you want to?
Actually, the oil-based primer is 'Kilz,' seems to have saved the day again! With initial test painting, it appears that I can paint over the Kilz with anything including the water based enamel. Does an oil primer require an oil-based top coat
The slow down for now is any paint that goes over the enamel keeps the surface super tacky. Shame, told myself not to pet my black kitty while working with the stuff, but a minute later forgot until I noticed the black fur blotching up on the batt box
Hmm, the thread on chilling motors is pretty old, am ordering some of this stuff. Goal: to chill an Astro for 10mi+http://www.dry-ice-packs.com/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=17
Gwack, the stuff freezes just as water and won't significantly chill a motor, back to pinning my hopes on propylene glycol(blue ice).
The slow down for now is any paint that goes over the enamel keeps the surface super tacky. Shame, told myself not to pet my black kitty while working with the stuff, but a minute later forgot until I noticed the black fur blotching up on the batt box
Hmm, the thread on chilling motors is pretty old, am ordering some of this stuff. Goal: to chill an Astro for 10mi+http://www.dry-ice-packs.com/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=17
Gwack, the stuff freezes just as water and won't significantly chill a motor, back to pinning my hopes on propylene glycol(blue ice).
Yes, the Bin 1-2-3 is a super-adherent primer that allows you to topcoat with latex paints.
1. Kilz
2. Bin 123 or other super adherent primer (there are many)
3. latex paint
Kilz must be topcoated with oil base ordinarily. I like Tremclad in the can. You can brush it on and sand it if need be. Takes 2 days to dry though. Toughest conventional paint I've found so far.
But I'm always looking for a tougher conventional paint if you know of one. (don't bug me with 2-part paints, too expensive)
Katou
1. Kilz
2. Bin 123 or other super adherent primer (there are many)
3. latex paint
Kilz must be topcoated with oil base ordinarily. I like Tremclad in the can. You can brush it on and sand it if need be. Takes 2 days to dry though. Toughest conventional paint I've found so far.
But I'm always looking for a tougher conventional paint if you know of one. (don't bug me with 2-part paints, too expensive)
Katou
Wanders, are you posting your build? Are you working with Matt's drive/goodies?
Spent an hour this eve scraping and scrubing off the tacky enamel. Came clean like new! Sprayed the oil-based Kilz and sure 'nough it dried completely I'm back on track and hope to juice the motor with the back wheel off the ground in a day or two(1/7). Sing, "Performance data is a coming," to your favorite happy tune :wink:
I feel guilty taking 3 weeks to get the sticky batt box going. Source for material is local, an industrial supply place that evolved into belt supply. "B A Industrial Supply, Bakersfield, no web site"I googled 'conveyor belts' and suppliers are out there yet don't know where you can buy a small quantity. Actually, they couldn't print the $15 receit for 20 minutes and let me have the 4' x 1' of belt free.faster progress on it than I
Spent an hour this eve scraping and scrubing off the tacky enamel. Came clean like new! Sprayed the oil-based Kilz and sure 'nough it dried completely
I'm back on track and hope to juice the motor with the back wheel off the ground in a day or two(1/7). Sing, "Performance data is a coming," to your favorite happy tune :wink:Ev_nred I looked at the thread long ago, can't find it now using the Search feature.
Got the batt box together, close to ready to ride up the street, however, Houston, we don't have ignition plugged in 12S, just 5Ahr to see if the motor would spin; Nada, nutin, ssssss ssssss sssssilence. (also tried plugging in 6S)
I'm scratching my nogin, how about those lose wires dangling from the throttle interface? If not that, where should I start to troubleshoot?
Got the batt box together, close to ready to ride up the street, however, Houston, we don't have ignition
plugged in 12S, just 5Ahr to see if the motor would spin; Nada, nutin, ssssss ssssss sssssilence. (also tried plugging in 6S)
I'm scratching my nogin, how about those lose wires dangling from the throttle interface? If not that, where should I start to troubleshoot?
recumpence
1 GW
You need to supply battery voltage to the small plug that is currently unused on the throttle interface. That powers the electronics in the interface. I normally put a tag on that wire that says "6 to 60 volts input".
Matt
Matt
AussieJester
1 TW
This is a very neat build, your going to be hella pleased when you fire this
puppy up SoSauty, hope your good at wheelies LoL
Well spotted there to Matt i didn't notice the the un-connected wire
from your throttle interface kit...
KiM
puppy up SoSauty, hope your good at wheelies LoL
Well spotted there to Matt i didn't notice the the un-connected wire
from your throttle interface kit...
KiM
Quite a compliment, coming from you AJ, you being one of the few master custom chopper e-bike builders on this planet Thanks
Yeah, you had labeled that connector 12V-60V, today soldered in 2 little jumper wires to the red/black of the interface to supply voltage/power, however, still lifeless The new lipo's showed all very similiar readings during charging, small spark when plugging, believe those to be hot. There's continuity thru the harness. My meter says it's limited to 10amps, seems it would magically smoke if I measured lipo amperag with it. Haven't spent too much time trouble shooting, but if there's good ideas as to how to go about this, please chime in
Nuts, forgot about LVC, disregard the foto 1 Lipo, returned to using 2 batts, 12S
ThanksYeah, you had labeled that connector 12V-60V, today soldered in 2 little jumper wires to the red/black of the interface to supply voltage/power, however, still lifeless
The new lipo's showed all very similiar readings during charging, small spark when plugging, believe those to be hot. There's continuity thru the harness. My meter says it's limited to 10amps, seems it would magically smoke if I measured lipo amperag with it. Haven't spent too much time trouble shooting, but if there's good ideas as to how to go about this, please chime in
Nuts, forgot about LVC, disregard the foto 1 Lipo, returned to using 2 batts, 12S
recumpence
1 GW
You have the ESC plugged into the throttle interface with incorrect polarity. Reverse the little 3 wire plug between the ESC and the throttle interface. That should fix it.
Matt
Matt