Schwinn Stingray Controller

[Patriot4]

Hi Everyone,
I have an electric stingray and the throttle got broke and for some reason burned out the motor controller. I understand the original controller is not available. High Tech bikes sells a sensorless controller. This would make things a lot easier as I wouldn't have to figure out the order and wiring of the hall sensors. First queston, will it work? Second is this self starting or do you have to pedal first? Third how many combinations of the the phases would I have to go through to get the right order? Thanks for your time and input. Ray

 

[sangesf]

Ray,

Any (brushless) controller will work...

I have used 8 different controllers on my OCC electric...

If you have a sensorless controller, it makes it easier...

Using sensorless mode, you hook up the three phase wires...
There are only 3, usually, Yellow, Blue and Green

Once you get the correct combination, the hall sensor wires are usually the same..

Example...
IF phase wire connections are..
Controller side Yellow to Motor Green
Controller side Green to Motor Yellow
Controller side Blue to Motor Blue

Then halls go the same way..
C-Red to M-Red
C-Black to M-Black
C-Yellow to M-Green
C-Green to M-Yellow
C-Blue to M-Blue

 

[Patriot4]

Thanks for the reply. One other queston, if the hall is shorted out, sending a hot signal, will this cause to act like the controller is bad? thanks ray

 

[sangesf]

Thanks for the reply. One other queston, if the hall is shorted out, sending a hot signal, will this cause to act like the controller is bad? thanks ray

The stock controller on the stingray is a SENSORED controller, if you have a shorted hall, the motor won't spin.
Hence the need for a sensorless one.

 

[Patriot4]

Hi Everyone,
I received the motor controller this Friday. I got the wrong part, it was suppose to be sensorless, it was sensored. I decided to go for it anyway. The person who replied, was correct, the sensor and motor phase wires matched in colors. However on the motor, the phase wires matched to controller, but the sensor wires were completly different colors. After a long time I figured out what was 5 volt+ and ground and then which sensor wire to each corresponding phase. I temporarilly hooked up the controller and throttle and tested. The motor spun, I was estatic! I the proceeded to mount the parts. A Lot of cutting, splicing, soldering, etc. The new controller is about 3 times larger than the original and that took some consideration. When I finished hooking everything up and before I did the finishing touches, I again powered up and tested. The motor responded to throttle like it is suppose to. Another however, I didn't notice originally that the motor was spinning backwards. After two cigarettes, LOOKING AT THE OLD CONTROLLER and remembering what I read on this forum, I knew I had to switch two phases along with their sensors to the controller. I guessed right. Everything worked fine. It took litory 7 hours to do this being crosslegged and bowed over. Boy I am getting old, sore. Took out for a teat drive. I swear it accelerates faster and goes faster. I am very happy. Thank You for this forum, Ray.
PS emailed High Tech Bikes to tell them there was problem as I received the wrong part.

 

[sangesf]

It's probably a higher amp controller than the stock stingray...
Higher amp = higher torque and speed but less distance..
I've had a 48v 50a controller and 48v 10ah batt hooked up to the stock wheel and was able to get 27.2 mph top speed, but that poor motor started to whine at me at 25+mph.
It's now hooked up to a 36v 25a controller and36v 20ah batt and cruising speed is about 21-22mph, with 24.6mph top end with wind behind me.

P.S. If you have any extra parts or know where I can get some for the electric version occ, let me know.

 

[Patriot4]

Hi people, received a reply from High Tech Bikes. They said they must of sent me their new controller. You can use it sensored or swensorless. For sensorless just unplugg the sensor connector and it will go sensorless. Ithought that is a neat idea. Ray