Second Build Trek Fuel EX 5.5

[sflorlando]

I ordered 24 FET 10000Watts Muscular High Current LYEN Controller $299!

I blew my controller (i think) by accident, maybe my subconscious begged for more performance!

It would be a requirement any ways, since my plan is to someday upgrade my motor.

By the way does anyone repair controllers?

 

[Pure]

You probably just popped the FETs, easy repair. Just open it up and see what ones are blown. It should be visibly obvious. Then un-solder them and seek replacements. You can order them online from various sources, and some radio shacks might carry a suitable replacement.

 

[rui_fujino]

hi, how did you end up setting your TA?
also, what current are you running on the phase wires??
I've got similar style setup with 20s and was wondering if you had any trouble with torque... :wink:

 

[sflorlando]

I ran my bike at 18s (74 volts straight off the charger) with 40 amps from the controller. The only problem I had was not having enough torque. Goes plenty fast at 42 mph. Just doesnt get there as quickly as I want.

I used a combination of Doc's torque arms and a beefy torque arm from Methods. I also installed a pair of nordlock washers. (i'll try to take some pics tonight of the torque arms).

 

[sflorlando]

Lyen says he fixes controllers, but I also brought in the controller to diagnose at work.

If I do open it up, I'll take some pics.

 

[sflorlando]

I opened up the controller

Glanced through each of the caps and mosfets. Didnt really see any physical damage. I know the pictures are terrible. But anyone have any thoughts?

 

[zombiess]

What controller is that, where did u get it? Number off the MCU please

 

[sflorlando]

Thanks

I got the 72 volt 40 amp controller off of Justin at ebikes.ca

Sorry not sure what the MCU is. If you point me in the right direction I can find it for you.

thanks!

 

[zombiess]

Thanks

I got the 72 volt 40 amp controller off of Justin at ebikes.ca

Sorry not sure what the MCU is. If you point me in the right direction I can find it for you.

thanks!

Should be the chip with the sticker on it (you'll have to remove the sticker). Looks like a 846 board which is non programmable according to the thread search I just did unless I missed it.

 

[sflorlando]

I took the sticker off the chip. I can barely see the numbers 846.

 

[NeilP]

Mine was a different board, and the same issue as you ..nothing obvious blown..althoug with yours..what is that little black area to the left of the chip with the sticker..second block of components.. ||Just above R10 and R11 looks a little blackened

 

[sflorlando]

yes that area is a little black, looks like tar type material. Turned it around and dont see anything on the back of the board

 

[NeilP]

Would not expect anything on the back, but those small brown squares are SMD resistors..Surface Mount Resistors. it was one like that that was blown off my board. I was wondering of the black that can be seen in the picture was the burnt track leading to one of the resistors

 

[sflorlando]

They are so incrediably tiny and difficult to see. I guess I will be sending to Lyen to get fixed. No way my soldering skills are that good!

 

[sflorlando]

Heres pics of my torque arms.

 

[rui_fujino]

is your Doc's Torque arm glued with Dp420?

 

[sflorlando]

I have some dp420 that I will apply, once I get my big motor. My hs3540 is pretty low power, so havent bothered.

 

[sflorlando]

Lyen Shipped my controller and included a video...OMG the thing looks the size of a toaster.

 

[sflorlando]

Ive been having questions about how I am currently charging my setup. Any feed back would be great.

My charging setup is a copy of a popular member on here. Well in all honesty I purchased from him a harness, and after a few times hooking mine up wrong and replacing connectors, I forced myself to make and repair my own. Dont want to call him out cause he seems like a good guy, and has done a lot for the hobby.

As you can see here. I have three seperate sets of battery packs. Each set of batteries has three packs in parrelel.

When the series discharge connector block is plugged in It allows these seperate packs to be formed into a 66v 15ah pack.

When the charging connector is plugged in. It puts all of the batteries of all of the sets in parrelel.

I then plug the balance harness into each of the batteries. The harness consists of two sets of 6 6s parralel balance cables and also a splitter. I plug each of these into port a of my hyperion charger. When I set my charger I set it to charge 6s at 30ah.

When I balance the batteries I imagine that cell one of all cells has equal voltage to cell two, cell three, etc. However if one of my turnigy packs has a higher voltage then the other pack and I balance it, it the entire cells are balanced, but comparing individual cells they can be off. Maybe im thinking about this all wrong.

Is this a simple process of just plugging half of the balance cables to part A and half to part B? Does this still balance all the cells at the cell level, or is there a better way?

 

[sflorlando]

Got the new controller. A 24 fet monster from Lyen.

 

[Pure]

Good lord that thing is a monster! And I thought my 18FET was huge.

As for your charging question, I think I understand what you are asking. If any of the cells are off enough to matter you will know it when you parallel them. If the difference in voltage is enough, the sudden draw of current from one cell to another, without any way of controlling that current, will be enough to melt connectors and possibly cause KFF (Kentucky Fried Fingers). Yes having them in parallel will balance them all. Even still internal differences in the cells can cause a voltage difference + or - a couple of points. One more reason you should not charge to max voltage. One or 2 cells seem to always be a .01 or .02 higher or lower than the rest of the pack.

 

[sflorlando]

Ya take a look at this for scale.

These are pressed against the bag, not a foot away. These things are huge. Will most likely throw it on a cheap rear rack.

 

[dilbertjth]

Nice bike! I will be starting a very similar build shortly. I have the exact same bike (model and year) except one size larger (18.5/19.5). I'll be going the seat post rack route for the battery though, since I want a super easy and quick disconnect so that I can take the battery into the office for recharging when I get to work. Parts are on order, mostly from grin cyclery (ebikes.ca).

 

[sflorlando]

Cool good luck,

The bigger frame would be nice! I never had a battery rack on the back, but I have heard you have to be careful about the weight. Since this bike is a full suspension it may be hard finding a heavy duty rear rack that floats. If you find one let me know.

I bought all of my stuff from ebikes.ca.

 

[dilbertjth]

I got this Ibera rack:
http://www.ibera-usa.com/Bicycle-seatpostmounted-Commuter-Rack-Quickrelease-Commuter/M/B005G8BRRG.htm?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=CSE&utm_source=froogle
It's rated to carry 22 lb. I figure I'll have it loaded just under 20 lb. I plan to just be using
the bike for commuting and errands, not any real mountain bike trails. I plan to move the bag
mount as far forward as it will go, and also secure the battery in the very front of the bag to
reduce the torque a bit. If I ever decide to really hit the trails I'll probably need use a
battery bag in the triangle or something similar. But... I have a Honda XR250 and a 2011 Fuel 5
for that stuff.