Not my problem, so your statement does NOT apply to me.So basically a large attack surface for things like goathead thorns. That is just going to increase the chances for a flat tire.
Not my problem, so your statement does NOT apply to me.So basically a large attack surface for things like goathead thorns. That is just going to increase the chances for a flat tire.
Not my problem, so your statement does NOT apply to me.
Probably true. I wouldn't know.No bicycle tire except a few models of very heavy kenda tire come close to the amount of rubber depth a mid weight motorcycle tire has.
For riding slowly in a straight line, bigger is more efficient. But wheel rigidity matters and is dramatically affected by rim diameter.For appeasing hub motors, stowing in cars, shipping in airplanes, yes small wheels are best.
For riding, the bigger the better.
What is your bike for?
Care to elaborate? Front wheel diameter is the only other relevant factor, and I'm not interested in changing that either. Moving the wheel forward "typically improves handling" when you're standing up and going down a mountain, not when you're seated and on a flat road.Not true.
Within limitations, trail can be altered without swapping or modifying the fork. And..., repositioning the front wheel slightly forward, typically improves handling.
You implied they were an authority by mentioning their name, that's how that works.I never implied they were an authority. I'm merely pointing that Schwalbe's technical reasoning mirrors that of many performance tire manufacture's... and I concur e.
Trail isn't something you have control over without swapping forks, and it doesn't compensate for the front wheel being too far out in front. I would say bar height and stem length are both more important than the 3 you mentioned, but I have no idea what you meant by "tiller". I'm assuming grip angle means bar bend angles?
Not true.
Within limitations, trail can be altered without swapping or modifying the fork. And..., repositioning the front wheel slightly forward, typically improves handling.
For riding slowly in a straight line, bigger is more efficient. But wheel rigidity matters and is dramatically affected by rim diameter.
Did not state or even imply that.Repositioning wheel forward on fork without changing offset of fork?
This is not possible, at least not in any manner that is safe.
Have it your way then (I could give ashit less).... yup,... Schwalbe IS in fact an authority on bicycle and e-bicycle tires.You implied they were an authority by mentioning their name, that's how that works.
Did not state or even imply that.
You apparently need optical assistance..... or suffer from Aphasia.
Me and e-HP are both big fans of 24" rear, 26" front configurations. Another upside is that this creates a slacker fork angle, and gives you more of a crank forward positioning when pedaling, which is comfortable. You can also run a honker of a 24" rear tire if you wish.
22" will also accept 18" motorcycle tires ranging from 2.25" wide to ~5" wide.
Depending on the bike, the slacker head angle isn't always an upside.
Slack headtube angles typically require an appropriate amount of positive trail. But there's three other attributes that needs careful consideration when fooling with steering geometry ..... and that's tiller, handlebar width and grip angle.
Trail isn't something you have control over without swapping forks, and it doesn't compensate for the front wheel being too far out in front. I would say bar height and stem length are both more important than the 3 you mentioned, but I have no idea what you meant by "tiller". I'm assuming grip angle means bar bend angles?
Not true.
Within limitations, trail can be altered without swapping or modifying the fork. And..., repositioning the front wheel slightly forward, typically improves handling.
A slacker head angle moves the front wheel forward, that's what I was referring to. I'm still not sure what Papa was getting at about fixing the trail.
My issue with the head angle change had nothing to do with the steering feel, I was referring to how far back in the wheelbase my center of gravity ended up with me seated. Going to the smaller rear wheel forced me to tuck my chest down to the bars in corners far too often for my liking. Papa pulled the trail idea out of left field, but this thread was thoroughly derailed long before that.Slacker head angle increases natural trail, which makes the steering floppy and unstable at low speeds if you use a fork with normal offset. Longer fork offset fixes that. However for higher than natural bicycle speeds, increased trail can help handling and stability. (Motorcycles often feature very slack head angles with bicycle-like fork offset.) For heavy front axle loads, decreased trail/greater fork offset makes the steering more manageable and lighter.
Trikes behave much better with a lot less trail than bicycles, so any given head angle should be (but usually isn't) paired with a fork that has much more offset than a bicycle would use.
Nope... read it again..You did state that. At the bare minimum it is definitely implied......
Nope... read it again..
Two separate sentences.
Two separate statements,
"Within limitations, trail can be altered without swapping or modifying the fork.
And..., repositioning the front wheel slightly forward, typically improves handling."
I guess I did use a question mark, but I wouldn't say I was expecting an answer. If you're interested in learning about trail, there are better sources than this guy.