Smallest controller?

[BestBoy]

Hi, Im new... the WIKI appears to be offline

Im from the eSkate world. All diy builds using Focboxes and VESCs.
Ive never used a hub motor (ebike). All the diy build kits seem to have huge controllers! Big aluminium boxes.

I want to build a super clean bike using a front hub motor and a battery built into one of those Shark Halion Alibaba cases.
Im looking at this kit:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-E-Bicycle-Front-Wheel-Conversion-Kit-48v-1000w-26-Wheel-Bike-Bicycle/162795660794?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D51875%26meid%3D6b6401b6a37d4283b6d11dd7bfe96e43%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D7%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D222991687452%26itm%3D162795660794&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Does a smaller controller exist!?

 

[danielrlee]

Does a smaller controller exist? Sure it does, but to a degree, the size of a controller directly relates to how much power it can handle. Unless you're willing to spend more than the cost of that complete kit on one, a smaller controller would leave that motor feeling totally gutless.

 

[MadRhino]

The controller in that kit is big for the power it can feed. You can have much smaller and feed much more without spending much. Buy a 12 x 4110 mosfets programmable controller. It is about 2/3 the size of the one in the kit, and it can be mod easily to feed 10kw.

See Powervelocity for the later models that are sinewave and have a Bluetooth interface. Edward Lyen does advertize too, in the ´buy and sell’ section of the forum. He has the older models that are square wave. Alternatively, those 12 x 4110 infineon controllers can be found even cheaper direct in China via AliExpress or Alibaba.com, but discuss with thr seller and make sure.

 

[danielrlee]

I could be wrong, but I think the controller in that kit is a 12 FET.

 

[wturber]

I want to build a super clean bike using a front hub motor and a battery built into one of those Shark Halion Alibaba cases.
Im looking at this kit:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-E-Bicycle-Front-Wheel-Conversion-Kit-48v-1000w-26-Wheel-Bike-Bicycle/162795660794?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D51875%26meid%3D6b6401b6a37d4283b6d11dd7bfe96e43%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D7%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D222991687452%26itm%3D162795660794&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Does a smaller controller exist!?

I'm not sure what you mean by "super-clean", but the way I see things, that means a smaller hub motor. Don't get me wrong. I'm a fan of big DD hub motors for commuters. That's what I run. I just don't think it tends to make for what I consider to be "super clean" installs. For a "clean" look, I don't think the front hub should look larger than the rear hub/disc and cluster

FWIW, I painted my controller black and mounted it under the rack. where it tended to disappear visually.

Also, the grin Phaserunner is small and "clean" looking. But it is also expensive. It costs more than the entire kit you've referenced.

 

[amberwolf]

Grin Tech Phaserunner http://ebikes.ca , possibly plus a small heatsink dependingg on the power you're after.

 

[MadRhino]

Yep, if clean does mean stealth, then a rear build is better. Motor can be partially hidden with pannier bags. A rear build is better for handling and high power too. It is how you fit the battery that is making it stealth. The more powerful the bike, the longer the range, the bigger the battery you need. It is much easier to hide low power components and battery.

Some bike types are better to build stealth and powerful. Long cargo bikes, or big old school DH bikes, are distracting the eye off the E components, after you fit them with front bag, mud guards, rear rack and panniers. Real hiding of e components though, can only be done with small, low power builds.

 

[markz]

Grin as mentioned

I dont mind my ebike looking scraggly, people only really see you from the front and behind anywayzzzzz, but if you are in NYC and need uber-stealth for delivering them pizza's then there is the motors that fit inside the seat tube. Oh you dont want that much stealth, then a rear hub motor hidden behind some large pannier bags where your battery can go, then paint your generic controller black and have fun.

 

[BestBoy]

Thanks guys for the responses.
Im going to go for a rear wheel version and probably paint the controller black or put it in one of those wee frame bags.

 

[gogo]

The Phaserunner and most other potted controllers are small. I have a potted controller that's the size of a pack of cigarettes.

 

[Ianhill]

I would have thought coming from vesc you would stick with what you know at 48v or 13s a vesc could cover it, flipsky got a decent 6.6 out I just got my hands on one myself.

I'd get just a front wheel if that's what you want open it up put a kty83 temp sensor in the windings and have lovely little setup.

Watch yourself with a front hub mind I advise to use a rear hub with torque arms the bike will feel more stable and the front hub can brake/bend the fork over time.

The hub itself then is the big choice do you need a low kv high torque version or do you want a high speed version, This depends on your weight where you use the bike and how small/big a rim you use.

 

[Chalo]

Thanks guys for the responses.
Im going to go for a rear wheel version and probably paint the controller black or put it in one of those wee frame bags.

Don't put the controller in a bag. It has an aluminum case for a reason-- that's a heat sink and it needs air flow to do its job.

If you don't need tons of power, there are some bottle batteries that feature speed controllers built in. BMS Battery has some.