so how do i remove/seperate battery tabs?
- Thread starter emaayan
- Start date
dogman dan
1 PW
Some kind of snips to cut tabs. Leave the tabs on the cells for sure. You may need to use a slip of cardboard or something like that, to keep from touching snips to places where they short. You could use a voltmeter to identify places that the snips would short and spark.
meelis11
100 W
emaayan said:
You could try to use small flat screwdriver - put it between 2 spot-welded tabs and try to break tabs free one or two spots at a time. I have disassembled laptop battery and cordless drill battery using this method.
meelis11
100 W
No, dont remove tabs from cell, separate tab from tab - put screwdriver between two tabs/tab layersemaayan said:
you mean a really sharp screwdriver, btw a123rc, suggested i should charge the weak cells with 1 amp instead of 2 (using the imax) saying it would make a difference charging them better.
btw is there a specific solder for battery tabs cause that thing simply does not stick, and i've seen the youtube where it does.
btw is there a specific solder for battery tabs cause that thing simply does not stick, and i've seen the youtube where it does.
dnmun
1 PW
why are you tearing apart a new battery? why do you have to separate the battery tabs? separate from what?
long story http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=52779
short story (i opened that thread regarding a specfic problem said problem was detected, now i have another)
i have a battery which is 3 amps less then what it should be, because either a cell or cells are somehow less voltage then the others.
i have 20 cells un-tabbed which i can use one of them in place of which ever cells which is defective (even though a123rc say all cells were tested).
short story (i opened that thread regarding a specfic problem said problem was detected, now i have another)
i have a battery which is 3 amps less then what it should be, because either a cell or cells are somehow less voltage then the others.
i have 20 cells un-tabbed which i can use one of them in place of which ever cells which is defective (even though a123rc say all cells were tested).
999zip999
100 TW
Be careful at your level I do agree with Dmumn and first try and charge the low parelle cells to 3.6volts. Taking apart a new battery is should not be happening.
I did explain in your early thread how to go about finding the weak cell it went over your head. So cutting the tabs between parelle cell groups is not my first or second suggestion.
Those little green cells are very much alive. And a whole lot of little green cells add up to more power.
I did explain in your early thread how to go about finding the weak cell it went over your head. So cutting the tabs between parelle cell groups is not my first or second suggestion.
Those little green cells are very much alive. And a whole lot of little green cells add up to more power.
999zip999
100 TW
Do find the low voltage cells and charge that group up to 3.6v. Seat and watch don't go and answer the phone or watch T.V. watch the charge of the battery once it hit's 3.4v it will fill up at a fast rate and could go above the charge needed. So be careful.
i already did all these things, zip, that's what i'm trying to tell you. before i posted here, i detected the weak group, charged the ENTIRE battery with a regular charger so the bms could balance them first , then, went with the b6 imax charger , charging each and every cell via the balancing wire until they were all at the same level of about 3.5 volts. then i went ahead did a full discharged with a ride, and ended back where i started with a cell with a less voltage then the others. hey i don't want to cut these things either, but i won't live with a 18.4 ah which are infact, 15. i want my 3 amps, these are 6 km i'm missing.
999zip999
100 TW
Try and charge the low group to 3.6v then put the pack charger on don't and or don't test for range. You are just triing to get it to a good balance now. Do not test for ah. Low discharge and recharge as just try waking up the cell group. Plus you don't have tabs on the other new cells as they should have tabs on them.
docnjoj
1 GW
When the time comes to cut those tabs you can use a ceramic bladed knofe or scissor. They are non-conductive and very sharp. I have used both on tab type batteries. Then use more tabbled cells to solder them in. A Dremel can also work but is a lot harder to use.
otherdoc
otherdoc
dogman dan
1 PW
By snips, I meant some strong scissors, gardening shears, or tin snips if the jaws will fit. Other methods to cut the tabs include dremels with cutting discs.
It will be pretty hard to pry apart the cells too, as you do, you will likely remove the shrink wrap in the process, so remember than the entire metal can is the - pole of the battery.
It will be pretty hard to pry apart the cells too, as you do, you will likely remove the shrink wrap in the process, so remember than the entire metal can is the - pole of the battery.
dnmun
1 PW
if you charged them through a BMS to 3.5V/cell then they never had a chance to balance. but you know that already from all the other threads you started.
The bms will only work for so long. Atleast mine does. The charger will shut off and I would have 6 cells at 4.2v, and one cell at 4v. I do a full drain and next time all 4.2v. Could just be lagging behind but at full strength. I wouldn't trust the b6ac, their "5amp" charge rating takes longer then my 3amp power supply. If you have a pcm like mine it for sure would shut off if any cells get too high.
dnmun
1 PW
he is using a123 cylindricals.
999zip999
100 TW
The biggest problem is you go and give your test ? And drain the battery to cut-off just to test a brand new unbalance pack. But why ? Don't. Just charge after a short ride and give the battery a chance to fully fill up. These is a 1,200 cycle battery so give ten cycles befor you can think of a small test. It's just out of balance and you havn't given it a chance with mega ah test.
Just give the thing a chance befor you give brain and eye operation.
Just give the thing a chance befor you give brain and eye operation.
dogman dan
1 PW
I thought he did get the pack fully balanced and charged. Then found one cell group significantly lower in capacity on discharge.
I'd be inclined to repeat the test though, discharge testing, and resistance testing just the problem cell group before chopping up the pack.
Maybe just add a few of those extra cells to that problem group, to give it the same capacity as the others.
I'd be inclined to repeat the test though, discharge testing, and resistance testing just the problem cell group before chopping up the pack.
Maybe just add a few of those extra cells to that problem group, to give it the same capacity as the others.
folks, the mega ah test is not the first ride, i've been using the battery for a week, some times not fully discharging, charging fully, not charging fully, so i'ts not exactly waking up from the dead.also my attempts previously at cutting the tabs didn't go so well, so i don't know exactly the status of the battery cell
actually i was told from previous threads to charge them FIRST via the bms to allow them to balance, and then charge each cell seperately with imax.
but i missed the thing about checking the resistance (THAT did go over my head..)
additionally, a123systems replied to my email about 123rc saying:
"Dear Elhanan,
The source you referenced is not an authorized re-seller of A123 products. A123 Systems warns its customers against purchasing products marked with A123 Systems identification from unauthorized distributors. These products may be scrap products or in some cases, counterfeit products, and do not meet minimum A123 quality and performance standards. Additionally, counterfeit products may pose significant safety hazard to their users due to improper design, use of unsafe materials, or poor construction and quality control.
A123 Systems"
unfortunately they didn't exactly give me a chance to ask if there are any authorized re-sellers.
actually i was told from previous threads to charge them FIRST via the bms to allow them to balance, and then charge each cell seperately with imax.
but i missed the thing about checking the resistance (THAT did go over my head..)
additionally, a123systems replied to my email about 123rc saying:
"Dear Elhanan,
The source you referenced is not an authorized re-seller of A123 products. A123 Systems warns its customers against purchasing products marked with A123 Systems identification from unauthorized distributors. These products may be scrap products or in some cases, counterfeit products, and do not meet minimum A123 quality and performance standards. Additionally, counterfeit products may pose significant safety hazard to their users due to improper design, use of unsafe materials, or poor construction and quality control.
A123 Systems"
unfortunately they didn't exactly give me a chance to ask if there are any authorized re-sellers.
etriker
100 kW
You can take apart most any pack with these cutters.
http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI
I would remove the bms and put balance leads on it and charge and test it with a good balance charger before taking it apart.
The can is pos on A123m1 cells. It looks like yours are marked pos and neg on different cells ?
If so then that is a quick way to tell if they are bootleg.
Bootleg A123m1 cells with have the pos and neg printed wrong sometimes.
http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI
I would remove the bms and put balance leads on it and charge and test it with a good balance charger before taking it apart.
The can is pos on A123m1 cells. It looks like yours are marked pos and neg on different cells ?
If so then that is a quick way to tell if they are bootleg.
Bootleg A123m1 cells with have the pos and neg printed wrong sometimes.
i have an imax b6 charger, i'm assuming it's a good balance charger. i allready tried to balance it.
the bigger question is assuming i've managed to cut it out, how do i put it back in, just soldering tabs on it won't work , cause i can't solder anything on it, i'm thinking about getting a spot welder, but i need something cheap that won't take up much space.
when i wanted to check the authenticity of the cells, i stripped one, and saw it has a123 actually imprinted on it's body.
the bigger question is assuming i've managed to cut it out, how do i put it back in, just soldering tabs on it won't work , cause i can't solder anything on it, i'm thinking about getting a spot welder, but i need something cheap that won't take up much space.
when i wanted to check the authenticity of the cells, i stripped one, and saw it has a123 actually imprinted on it's body.
etriker
100 kW
When you cut them out leave enough tab on on it so you can solder on the tab.
You need a big soldering iron 80 watts and do it fast 2 seconds or less.
You need a steady hand.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkDgoXikI_8
You need a big soldering iron 80 watts and do it fast 2 seconds or less.
You need a steady hand.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkDgoXikI_8
Similar threads
