waynebergman
100 kW
Any one know of a good source for JST connectors 5 pin 20 gauge? I tried hobby king but they don't seem to stock 5 pin only 2 pin. Also I would like them supplied as pigtails.
Source for JST connectors 5 pin 20 gauge
- Thread starter waynebergman
- Start date
spinningmagnets
100 TW
You might consider JST extenders, and cut them in the middle?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9738__JST_XH_5S_Wire_Extension_20cm_10pcs_bag_.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9738__JST_XH_5S_Wire_Extension_20cm_10pcs_bag_.html
waynebergman
100 kW
Yes this sounds like it could work alright, I am just not sure what gauge of wire is used in these extentions. I was going to use these pigtails soldering to my hall sensor leads and then back to the controller and as the hall sensor wires are so stupid thin I am not sure if I also need to solder these thin hall wires to a similar thickness wire . I dont see the gauge of the wire listed on the hobby king site for these extentions but I am guessing they will be a lot thicker than my 20 gauge on the halls as hobby king is saying there are for battery use.?
Ykick
1 GW
I began using 2qty Futaba servo connectors for motor Hall wiring. They're 3 contacts ea connector so one for red & black power (leave the center open) and use a 2nd connector for the 3 signal wires. They fit through axle hardware and make a decently solid connection. Add a narrow chunk of inner tube to weatherproof.
Great for throttle wiring too!
Great for throttle wiring too!
dnmun
1 PW
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JST-2-5-XH-5-Pin-Connector-Plug-w-Wire-x-10-sets-/121171208515?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c365de943
spinningmagnets
100 TW
Kingfish has suggested that "micro-B/USB" extenders can be sourced to make a hall-wire 5-wire male/female = plug/socket where the male will fit through an axle-nut. I ordered a handful to test, and they are tiny! I could send you one free if you want to test...
Standard USB on the left, and micro-USB on the right, now commonly used for smart-phone power and data link.
Standard USB on the left, and micro-USB on the right, now commonly used for smart-phone power and data link.
waynebergman
100 kW
This sounds much better than the JST connectors if the wires inside the mini usb are not crazy thin.Thanks Spinningmagnets for the offer but I think I have some of these around the house actually. I will find them tomorrow and cut them open to see how thin the wires inside are. Are the regular sized usb also a five pin would anyone know?
waynebergman
100 kW
I guess I dont know what this means or how I would then make a set of 5 wires (red black blue green yello) coming out of my motor connect to this mini usb? If there is only 4 wires on the mini usb what do I do with the 5th wire?
If you buy just the plug, there's 5 tabs to solder your wires to. But if you would cut an existing plug, there's only 4 wires (one is internally bridged), and seeing as how these are glued / molten together, there'd be no way to make it work. Unless you buy the plug itself, before it's assembled.
This is teh pinout for usb micro - see how it's bridged? opening those little plugs would be impossible without destroying it.
But if you buy the connector itself, you can use the 5th tab like you want.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-Micro-USB-5P-plug-Mini-USB-plug-male-Molded-Case-/151114976264
I'm not sure USB micro is a good connector though, they are prone to rocking and don't handle moisture well.
This is teh pinout for usb micro - see how it's bridged? opening those little plugs would be impossible without destroying it.
But if you buy the connector itself, you can use the 5th tab like you want.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-Micro-USB-5P-plug-Mini-USB-plug-male-Molded-Case-/151114976264
I'm not sure USB micro is a good connector though, they are prone to rocking and don't handle moisture well.
spinningmagnets
100 TW
I haven't pulled one apart yet, but it looks like the wires inside the cable will be tiny.
dnmun
1 PW
i gave a him a link for the 5 pin JST, and he never ever replied.
waynebergman
100 kW
Yes thanks dnmun, that JST connectors looks good as well from ebay but they dont say if both male and female ends come with wire attached nor do they say what gauge of wire. I think the extensions from Hobby King are the ones I will go with for now. Thanks everyone for the help and details. The usb I will skip as it looks like I am not able to just use as a connector with a pig tail. I want the connector with wires on it so I just solder my wires to the pigtails supplied..........wayne
dnmun
1 PW
the socket part does not have pigtails, just the plugs. i think they are the better deal than hobby king and i use the 9 pin plugs for the cellogs. i find it almost impossible to solder to the legs of the sockets since they are .1" apart.
Ykick
1 GW
5 pin JST's will not fit through any axle hardware I have seen:
View attachment 2
Futaba Servo connectors do. Of course you need 2qty to connect motor Hall wiring but here's a visual:
I didn't care to open up my weatherproofed Futabas connectors to show you the actual Hall wires but here's one male/female:
They do require a proper crimper to assemble yourself. If you don't have one or don't care to buy one, forget it and just order pigtails and splice. Removing axle hardware may not be a priority for you as it is for me. Good luck with your rework.
View attachment 2
Futaba Servo connectors do. Of course you need 2qty to connect motor Hall wiring but here's a visual:
I didn't care to open up my weatherproofed Futabas connectors to show you the actual Hall wires but here's one male/female:
They do require a proper crimper to assemble yourself. If you don't have one or don't care to buy one, forget it and just order pigtails and splice. Removing axle hardware may not be a priority for you as it is for me. Good luck with your rework.
dnmun
1 PW
i did not realize he was gonna use the JST plug for the hall sensors. i thought this was for a lipo pack.
waynebergman
100 kW
Also I forgot to mention I am repairing a mid drive here so the whole axle thing is not important for me. My hall and phase exit through the side plate of the mac shell.
Ykick
1 GW
Ahh, Devil's in the details but I still suggest Futaba servo connectors for a wide variety of low power and signal applications.
spinningmagnets
100 TW
Just for the record, the Futaba male/female servo connectors will both fit through the 14mm MAC axle nut easily (don't know about the BPM 12mm nuts).
Wayne, if you want some, I will send you some for free. I have a handful I will likely never use. Concerning the available Hobby-King wire, there seems to be 3 common sizes. Ultra-light 32-AWG, the common medium weight 26-AWG, and the thicker 22-AWG. I have a bag of the 22-Ga...
edit: I purchased the heavier gauge wire because the upgrade was cheap and I was told there might be some voltage drop on long runs, and I was using this as throttle wire from handlebars to rear wheel (don't know if it makes any difference in this application).
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=23554
Wayne, if you want some, I will send you some for free. I have a handful I will likely never use. Concerning the available Hobby-King wire, there seems to be 3 common sizes. Ultra-light 32-AWG, the common medium weight 26-AWG, and the thicker 22-AWG. I have a bag of the 22-Ga...
edit: I purchased the heavier gauge wire because the upgrade was cheap and I was told there might be some voltage drop on long runs, and I was using this as throttle wire from handlebars to rear wheel (don't know if it makes any difference in this application).
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=23554
dnmun
1 PW
hall sensors carry no current of significance so the 32 or 26 is adequate too.
waynebergman
100 kW
Thanks Spinningmagnets, I may take you up on that offer but lets hold off till later. I may want to order some side plates for the mac from you if I convert my Giant like the Cove Stiffee. I like those mounting plates a lot so down the road I will remind you of the jst stuff to toss in the box if I convert the Giant. For now I am covered on the jst end of things. Just to update you on the trouble shooting I replaced all the phase wires and there connectors and still sporatic stuttering and no power so it must be the halls. I will now take apart the motor again and look at the hall sensors and there wires. At least now I know it was not the phase wires causing the grief so I feel I have learned or ruled out that part of the question.
dnmun
1 PW
test the hall sensors with your controller. if the signal does not toggle as the motor is rotated then look for a broken leg on the hall sensor. you can check continuity from the controller to the hall sensor leg if you find a bad one. you should not have a dead one unless it got shorted to the phase wires. you could have a dead mosfet in the controller too.
waynebergman
100 kW
Thanks for the tips "dnmun" I have sort of ruled out the controller, the CA, and throttle as I got the motor to earlier reproduce its sputtering while hooked up to an older version 2 CA and a compataible controller and an old twist grip so I know its not my controller, ca or twist grip throttle. Also I have the details of this on my mid drive thread. I figure I am at the point of zeroing in on the halls at this point. The difficulty before is I did not have any connectors for hall wires and it was all direct connection with soldered wires so I did not want to poke a pin in to the wires for voltage readings. Now that I have a jst connector in place for the halls I should be able to get a voltage reading from the connection inside the connector but the real issue I feel is the problem occurs so sporatically I can not really see a bench test with a volt meter will tell me anything. I may get lucky and as I am reading voltages etc from the different colored wires I may just happen to do it when it is acting up but I am thinking its just going to be easier to replace all the hall sensors and there wires as well. I am not looking forward to it but when I get the time I will tackle it. Thanks again.......wayne
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