Stealth Bomber type electric enduro purchase

[E5J7R]

‘’ The dnm’s can’t be all that bad if they are standard on $10,000 b-52 that everyone seems to love... what do you think? ‘’

What I think? Sure you want to know?
That is where they make the profit. Why would they sell you a bike with a 650$ shock if you can’t tell the difference with a 119$ Chinese shock imitation?

Very few ebikes are sold equipped with quality components. Consider them good if they admit it from the start and offer a list of optional upgrades. Like what? Like a better frame for 1000$ extra. That, would have been a good start.

I know they aren’t that great but like i said I’m not trying to get 1500$ performance on downhill trails. Just something to take on off-road trails in Florida and some commuting. For the price I couldn’t find anything better without rebuilding a beat up old set (not that mechanically inclined ...yet)

I know brand pull some crappy nonsense , all i meant is that it is ok set of forks for a beginning bike for me...maybe not you... but like i said thanks for your comments cuz my decision to upgrade from the zoom forks was helped in part by all the words of warning from this thread. Maybe you guys saved me from killing myself going off-road :thumb:

 

[E5J7R]

I'm sure that I posted in this topic. Did a Mod erase my post, and if so, why? It was inoffensive - I just noted that if you can get a serviceable bike like this for that price, I'd consider one myself, so I could pedal to where I wanted to want to ride offroad. I did mention wanting a Light Bee but dismissing that idea because you can't really ride it as a bicycle.

I’m with u on the pedaling, but mainly for me it will be Pedaling while riding some as insurance for getting home if my battery Needs help , sorry ur having trouble with posts... big ooof!
:?

 

[HK12K]

One more thing, if you do take it offroad try to take it easy. Chances are those wheels will bend if you start slamming into stuff. Or so has been the case for others anyway.

 

[LeftieBiker]

One more thing, if you do take it offroad try to take it easy. Chances are those wheels will bend if you start slamming into stuff. Or so has been the case for others anyway.

Indeed. Anything in this price range should be treated as a dirt trail bike, not a real off-road bike.

 

[E5J7R]

Here’s version 1 of my bike...

 

[synics]

So I got a version of this bike, and have modified pretty much everything. I have the 3.5 T 273 motor, Sabvoton 72200, 49AH Panny battery with 150 amp max BMS, 19" back wheel and 21" front wheel. Cost me $3100 shipped to my door in two months, and then I put my upgrades into it. Outside of the motor, controller and battery I have changed EVERYTHING, handlebar, grips, brakes, rotors, crankset, flywheel, kickstand, tires, pedals, chain tensioner, CAB motorworks seat, moto fenders, etc... Here are some of my thoughts:

1. This bike DOES NOT DO 70mph gps verified. Anyone who says otherwise is full of crap. Mine and two other people I know with similar bikes maxes out at 55mph both gps and radar gun verified with 50amp flux enabled. Given, 55mph feels fast as hell on this thing, but still, it ain't 70. My seller promised 70, and they straight up admitted that 70 is with no load. I'm like, wtf man.

2. It's HEAVY AS HELL. Close to 200 pounds. The frame is just overly heavy and with the 273 motor, it's a beast. Given that, I added Shimano Zee 4 piston downhill brakes on mine with 220mm rotors and ebraking enabled, and it STILL has trouble slowing down. You have to be really careful you gauge how fast you are going in relation to how far you have to stop.

3. The flywheel broke within two days, had to put a shimano on it.

4. You have to be REALLY careful with tightening and loosening bolts, I have had two of the allen bolts shear off in the DNM fork and I can't get them out for the life of me. So I cannot fully get the max travel out of my fork because it hit's the frame on big drops.

5. The back motor does not like bumps, so you have to remember to lay off the acceleration if bumps or hits are coming up to not get slammed. Overall though the DNM US8 fork and rear shock are pretty decent to be able to handle a bike that weighs close to 200 pounds. I can't say I have a lot of complaints in the suspension department.

6. My big 273 motor hasn't really gotten hot yet, I'm sure that thing can take HEAPS more power than what I'm throwing at it. The highest wattage draw I have seen on the screen is 8500 watts. I can't attest to the accuracy of that though or if it's even correct as I had to set the wheelsize to 12" to get the correct real time speed to correspond to my gps.

7. The controller...ohhh the controller...it's a Sabvoton 722000, but it seems as it's a locked version, as it WILL NOT allow me to increase the flux weakening higher than 50 amps, which seriously PISSES ME OFF. The seller told me it would be unlocked, they lied. I know I could get at least 10 more mph out of it I I could up it to 150. Does anyone know how to unlock these, or if it's even possible?

8. If you like a moto seat, I highly recommend the CAB motorworks seat, night and day form the chinese moto seat. Caveats are that it's expensive as hell ($450) and you have to drill new holes for the mount. I dulled two drill bits doing this.

9. MAKE SURE you set your motor poles at 16 instead of the default 32 or 23 to get a good speed boost.

Let me know if you guys have nay questions. It's still a hugely fun bike to ride, and it even wheelies no problem. Here are pics with only SOME of the upgrades.

 

[E5J7R]

Ok I wrote this huge long reply , then I changed apps , came back and it refreshed, killing my whole reply post .... grrrrrrrrrrffff

I wish I had gotten a more powerful battery/bms. My bike goes 49-51 mph with full max charge 82v and Drops down accordingly to 45-46 mph with base voltage Of 72v. My battery is supposed to only be a 72v battery but It holds well above 72v all the way until 10% of my battery is left and even then it is right at 72v. I have the panny’s as well 40ah but it will only max output 100 cont. -120amps burst or peak I don’t know which. Lol

The DNM usd-8’s are coming in the mail in about a week i hope. Do You have trouble turning? I ask bc they look as though the steerer tube to fork offset is less foreword on them than my crappy zoom forks. I’ll attach pix.

I have the pletcher aluminum double kickstand I’m about to file and install (it comes with an angle on one side that won’t allow the fit).

The bike sure is f’n heavy , I already have mad bruises on my knees from squeezing the bike, trying to move around on it and shift its weight. It’s not nearly as heavy as a dirtbike though... well mine is just over 155lbs with the battery.
Your motor is super heavy apparently?

I’m adding the stomp grip on sides of case to help and 3 cm worth of black moto race seat foam on top of frame between the seat and the neck. Will cut it to fit and contour it to flow with shape of bike. That way it rounds off the square top a bit and pads in case I shift my weight up front , or slip off pedals. Plus it won’t hurt my inner legs while standing over the bike anymore lol. It will even take the place of that stupid frame top additional piece that goes with the moto seat. (Picture below)

I wanted to swap out for your same motor but I think I’m just going to buy the asi bac2000 controller and screen from electric race technologies. I wanted the sabvoton but I want an even more unlocked and programmable one. My controller sucks as it’s square wave and I feel vibration at certain frequencies. I wonder though if getting the asi will make it any faster. They say yes but I don’t understand exactly how but whatever , it will be nice to have the sine wave tech and all of the customizability. Plus it will be great if upgrade my battery.

I’ll have to check my currrent speeds with gps , how do I do that? Get a garmin? Or does iPhone work ... I can google it.

My screen says I have 46 poles. What is best for my motor do u think? Can I hurt anything by just trying them out?
I tried changing my current limit from 50 to 100 but it didn’t change the performance at all.

I have a chain tensioner as well , although I can’t get my damn gears to work right ... AtALL!! Grr

I’ve watched videos and gone through the procedures and still, I can’t get to my easiest gear (big one on rear sprocket).

I also can’t get it to stop clicking when pedaling. So aggravating since I actually want to pedal for excercise while I’m riding on assist level 3 out of 9. Any suggestions?

Thanks for such a cool reply , I only have spoken to one other guy that has a (Similar) bike like this. He’s cool u should check him out at Hufstuff on YouTube (I don’t know how to do links to youtube.

Actually speaking of him , I got my motorcycle fenders (haven’t put them on yet bc I’m currently using the bike to commute) from him. I’ll probably put them on once I find a good spot to off-road here in Ocala Florida.

I’ll add them in some pics below.

I hope you keep in touch. Where u from? Anywhere near me in Florida?

One last edit...

The first fork pic is my zoom
The rear fender and seat are not bolted together yet , I just sat them on each other to show how they will look .. the fender is some kind of pit bike fender that actually goes with the moto seat (which I believe is borrowed from a pit bike model replacement seat, dont know which one though... Hufstuff said he was getting rid of his and I got lucky bc I can’t find them anywhere online labeled as electric enduro
moto seat fender or any other word combo I can think of)

The 2nd fork pic is the DNM usd-8 and I showed those to demonstrate the difference between the crown tube offsets.
I’m worried the DNM’s won’t turn as well.

 

[LeftieBiker]

My battery is supposed to only be a 72v battery but It holds well above 72v all the way until 10% of my battery is left and even then it is right at 72v.

Batteries are rated for voltage at the point at which they are just about dead, for some reason. This is perfectly normal. A 48 volt system usually charges to about 54 volts, and you don't want to run them down to less than 46 volts.

 

[synics]

Ok I wrote this huge long reply , then I changed apps , came back and it refreshed, killing my whole reply post .... grrrrrrrrrrffff

I wish I had gotten a more powerful battery/bms. My bike goes 49-51 mph with full max charge 82v and Drops down accordingly to 45-46 mph with base voltage Of 72v. My battery is supposed to only be a 72v battery but It holds well above 72v all the way until 10% of my battery is left and even then it is right at 72v. I have the panny’s as well 40ah but it will only max output 100 cont. -120amps burst or peak I don’t know which. Lol

The DNM usd-8’s are coming in the mail in about a week i hope. Do You have trouble turning? I ask bc they look as though the steerer tube to fork offset is less foreword on them than my crappy zoom forks. I’ll attach pix.

I have the pletcher aluminum double kickstand I’m about to file and install (it comes with an angle on one side that won’t allow the fit).

The bike sure is f’n heavy , I already have mad bruises on my knees from squeezing the bike, trying to move around on it and shift its weight. It’s not nearly as heavy as a dirtbike though... well mine is just over 155lbs with the battery.
Your motor is super heavy apparently?

I’m adding the stomp grip on sides of case to help and 3 cm worth of black moto race seat foam on top of frame between the seat and the neck. Will cut it to fit and contour it to flow with shape of bike. That way it rounds off the square top a bit and pads in case I shift my weight up front , or slip off pedals. Plus it won’t hurt my inner legs while standing over the bike anymore lol. It will even take the place of that stupid frame top additional piece that goes with the moto seat. (Picture below)

I wanted to swap out for your same motor but I think I’m just going to buy the asi bac2000 controller and screen from electric race technologies. I wanted the sabvoton but I want an even more unlocked and programmable one. My controller sucks as it’s square wave and I feel vibration at certain frequencies. I wonder though if getting the asi will make it any faster. They say yes but I don’t understand exactly how but whatever , it will be nice to have the sine wave tech and all of the customizability. Plus it will be great if upgrade my battery.

I’ll have to check my currrent speeds with gps , how do I do that? Get a garmin? Or does iPhone work ... I can google it.

My screen says I have 46 poles. What is best for my motor do u think? Can I hurt anything by just trying them out?
I tried changing my current limit from 50 to 100 but it didn’t change the performance at all.

I have a chain tensioner as well , although I can’t get my damn gears to work right ... AtALL!! Grr

I’ve watched videos and gone through the procedures and still, I can’t get to my easiest gear (big one on rear sprocket).

I also can’t get it to stop clicking when pedaling. So aggravating since I actually want to pedal for excercise while I’m riding on assist level 3 out of 9. Any suggestions?

Thanks for such a cool reply , I only have spoken to one other guy that has a (Similar) bike like this. He’s cool u should check him out at Hufstuff on YouTube (I don’t know how to do links to youtube.

Actually speaking of him , I got my motorcycle fenders (haven’t put them on yet bc I’m currently using the bike to commute) from him. I’ll probably put them on once I find a good spot to off-road here in Ocala Florida.

I’ll add them in some pics below.

I hope you keep in touch. Where u from? Anywhere near me in Florida?

One last edit...

The first fork pic is my zoom
The rear fender and seat are not bolted together yet , I just sat them on each other to show how they will look .. the fender is some kind of pit bike fender that actually goes with the moto seat (which I believe is borrowed from a pit bike model replacement seat, dont know which one though... Hufstuff said he was getting rid of his and I got lucky bc I can’t find them anywhere online labeled as electric enduro
moto seat fender or any other word combo I can think of)

The 2nd fork pic is the DNM usd-8 and I showed those to demonstrate the difference between the crown tube offsets.
I’m worried the DNM’s won’t turn as well.

1. If you are thinking you are getting 50mph based off of the display, then you probably aren't. I have owned 5 electric vehicles, and NONE of them go as fast as the display says. They all way over estimate. Use a gps app on your phone to see what your actual speed is.

2. If your battery is a 72 volt battery, then it shoudl charge to 84 or 83.7 volts and drop from there. it'll be dead one you hit 70 volts.

3. USD8 - I hope you got the ebike version of these since there are two different versions. The black ones are the ebike version and they are more heavy duty for e bikes. Turning radius sucks indeed, but it doesn't hinder driving at all, just backing up and turning it around out on the trail.

4. Changes the poles in your display to 16 poles, it will go faster guaranteed. You have to take the total poles and divide it by two for it to run better.

5. My seat is wider than the one you're using so my legs are fine on it. I have hit my knee twice on the corner though when riding fast off road and hitting jumps or obstacles. Thinking about putting some type of padding there. What are you using? Do you have a link?

6. The sine wave is DEF better. My throttle response is excellent actually, super smooth ramp up, I'm actually really impressed with that. And the bike is 100% silent, literally makes zero noise unlike every other electric vehicle I've had. Riding it in the woods is actually erie as I'm using to either a super loud dirt bike or my 5600 watt dual motor scooter that makes noise in the hubs. Funny thing is that that scooter goes just about as fast as this does. Doesn't have the same power though. This bike flies up hills like nobody's business and even rooster tails in loose dirt.

7. I can't speak to gears, I only have one gear, I could care less about pedaling. In fact, I would take the pedals off if I wasn't worried about getting hassled by the cops.

8. My front fender is actually off a Razor MX650 electric dirt bike, and it looks PERFECT on this bike. Pretty funny. I had to get pretty creative to mount it though. The usd8 has ZERO mounting holes which annoyed the hell out of me.

9. Your top upgrade should be 3" riser bars like I have. It makes a TREMENDOUS difference in comfort and ridability. Mine are ProTaper but they're sold out everywhere. You would need to pair the bars with a 31.8mm headset as well. Check out my pic.

10. Take the metal guard off your light.

All in all, I have a blast riding this thing. It's a ton of fun and love how quiet it is. Just wish it had a faster top speed so I could up my chance at killing myself. LOL

 

[E5J7R]

1. Ill check the gps.
2. Batt full 82 v just fully charged it, i am waiting on an adapter cable for my cycle satiator ... idk if that will make a difference or not when i get that.
3. They do have an ebike model called the usd-8 c (Not sure if it is only in black, can send send them email to clarify)... the only difference Between those and what i have is that they have drilled many holes for safety accessories such as lights,fenders etc... see attached pic With all of the specs. My forks that i bought are usd-8 SA limited spring/air. They come in a few colors, all with different sku#s , mine are gold and white.
4. When i change the poles, it doesn’t seem to do anything except screw my mph reading. I asked the mfr. and they said i should leave it at 46... i wonder if this is the setting that screws the mph reading, making it read too fast? Maybe it is on purpose to give the customer a false sense of satisfaction in speed? I really wanna chk now , what app?
5. Just google motorcycle race seat foam 20mm sheets... ill try to find it for next post
6. Def getting asi Bac model sine wave Controller Now
7. Lol
8.mine is a “the industries” front fender. Clear Have yet to install
9. Got 50mm rise spank spike vibrocore matte black... almost the same rise as urs


I cant get the plate off my light without cutting the cable. Lol... its okay for now cuz when i put my moto seat on, ill need that plate to mount the light off the back of frame case where the holes have been pre drilled with plastic covers added. Does ur bike have those little black rubber domes on the back covering the holes?

The 3 pics
1 is of the exact fenders i have on a similar frame bike with same moto seat as mine. Looks mean like a wasp , cant wait to paint mine and get them on for dirt riding (edit wrong picture, I posted the correct one after so scroll lol)
2 is a screenshot of dam website. Lol DNM not dam ... dam dnm site haha
3. I got these black craft foam pad sheets w adhesive backing at walmart for the lining of my battery box and i stuck some on the back end of my bike... whatcha think? looks cool i think.

 

[MadRhino]

The speed that you are doing is OK for the bike that you have. Don’t try upgrading power and speed until you had upgraded the cheap components. You won’t need another motor to upgrade performance, only battery/controller will need mod or replacement.

The first thing I would care is braking distance. Then, cornering handling. Both need to be addressed in priority, so you get to be familiar with the safety limits. Both can be improved, and that is what I would improve first. When you have a short braking distance and good cornering ability, you can start thinking about better speed and acceleration.

 

[Jenming]

The speed that you are doing is OK for the bike that you have. Don’t try upgrading power and speed until you had upgraded the cheap components. You won’t need another motor to upgrade performance, only battery/controller will need mod or replacement.

The first thing I would care is braking distance. Then, cornering handling. Both need to be addressed in priority, so you get to be familiar with the safety limits. Both can be improved, and that is what I would improve first. When you have a short braking distance and good cornering ability, you can start thinking about better speed and acceleration.

I think I understand braking, tire grip and enough rotor not to overheat. Easy enough to test.

But cornering? Can you go into it a little more? Tire grip again and something about the shock? Method to test?

 

[MadRhino]

On pavement, find a curve that is more than 90° and ride it repeatedly, faster every time until you feel it’s getting dangerous. That is the point where you will have it hard to stay in your lane, to keep the bike from tracking out to upcoming lane even if you entered the turn well inside.

On a street corner where the pavement is damaged, see how fast you can turn on the damaged pavement before your rear wheel start bouncing off the ground.

Off road, find a root garden in a trail (where tree roots are on top of the surface) and see the speed that you can ride there before the rear start bucking. Don’t try cornering aggressively there, not until you can ride this kind of surface in straight line and your rear wheel keeps contact with the ground.

Improving cornering handling is the combination of 2 different factors in suspension tuning. First you need to set proper rebound control in order to make your wheel keeping contact with the ground at all time. Well, except for your deliberate action to lift the front or bunny-hop the tail, but that is another story.

Second, the depth of suspension action in cornering need to be set. You understand that your wheel base shortens when you are braking in entering a turn, and it stretches in acceleration when you are getting out of the turn. This contraction/extension of the wheelbase in a turn is set by the combination of the fork and shock pre-compression or, if this option is available, with lo-hi speed compression gates. You want to get rid of any under or over steering effect that would fool you into a false trajectory by drifting the tail or washing out the front in the upcoming lane.

 

[MadRhino]

Braking short is a combination of geometry and brake modulation mastering. You first need to find the best position in your cockpit setting in order to compensate consciously for the tail wanting to lift off the ground. Not saying it shouldn’t lift, only that you must be in proper position to control the lift. That is competence, it can be improved with practice.

Next is the brake modulation. It can’t be set on all brakes. The average brake out there has a modulation range that is designed in the fabrication and can be mod only via the choice of various brake pads. But, you can develop competence there too, when you know precisely the nodulation of your brake and get to control it good enough to bring it as close as possible to locking the wheel, yet avoid locking it no matter what. When modulation is excellent or adjustable, you can tune your brake lever in order to make a linear braking progression, so that your desceleraation is keeping the rear only a few inches off the ground.

You understood that short braking distance is achieved on the front, thus it is the front brake that must be your best brake and the one that you need to master the modulation. It can be improved by practicing, and better equipment (larger pad surface, predictable bite point, adjustable reach and travel, rotor and caliper heat shedding ability).

 

[E5J7R]

Oops I accidentally sent a duplicate of a picture. Here is the picture I meant to send which is of the bike I got my front and rear fenders off of. Well I was able to buy the actual rear fender from his bike and he sold me a brand new unpainted/clear Front fender that he had a a a spare. Cool guy and He did me a solid bc I couldn’t find either of these anywhere online anymore... sold out and/or discontinued...

Oh and I got the number plate but probably won’t use it for now... who knows we’ll see once I get out in the dirt lol

 

[E5J7R]

Braking short is a combination of geometry and brake modulation mastering. You first need to find the best position in your cockpit setting in order to compensate consciously for the tail wanting to lift off the ground. Not saying it shouldn’t lift, only that you must be in proper position to control the lift. That is competence, it can be improved with practice.

Next is the brake modulation. It can’t be set on all brakes. The average brake out there has a modulation range that is designed in the fabrication and can be mod only via the choice of various brake pads. But, you can develop competence there too, when you know precisely the nodulation of your brake and get to control it good enough to bring it as close as possible to locking the wheel, yet avoid locking it no matter what. When modulation is excellent or adjustable, you can tune your brake lever in order to make a linear braking progression, so that your desceleraation is keeping the rear only a few inches off the ground.

You understood that short braking distance is achieved on the front, thus it is the front brake that must be your best brake and the one that you need to master the modulation. It can be improved by practicing, and better equipment (larger pad surface, predictable bite point, adjustable reach and travel, rotor and caliper heat shedding ability).

Thanks for all the info man, even though it was intended for the other person , I will try to incorporate this advice into my riding.
I’ve got quite a lot to still do/replace on my bike but so far I love it and for the price I paid , I have room still for all of the upgrades I want to do. Ultimately making my bike way more custom and a lot more fun than if I had gone the more expensive route.

 

[MadRhino]

Well. Good that you like it and plan making it a better ride. Yet there is one thing that you won’t be able to achieve with this bike: light weight. :wink:

 

[Jenming]

Snip

Very helpful, thank you for the detailed reply.

 

[E5J7R]

Well. Good that you like it and plan making it a better ride. Yet there is one thing that you won’t be able to achieve with this bike: light weight. :wink:

Compared to a dirtbike yeppers!

 

[synics]

Well. Good that you like it and plan making it a better ride. Yet there is one thing that you won’t be able to achieve with this bike: light weight. :wink:

Compared to a dirtbike yeppers!

The HUGE DIFFERENCE is that dirt bikes don't have a 40lb motor on the back wheel.

 

[E5J7R]

I don’t have a 40 lb motor on my back wheel 28.1 to be exact

 

[E5J7R]

Some reason I get the feeling people don’t like it that I’m happy about my purchase lol

 

[efMX Trials Electric Freeride]

I like to call it "the welcome wagon" .. (most) everyone new here gets the welcome wagon haha .. all that really matters is if you like it.. 8)

 

[ossivirt]

Some reason I get the feeling people don’t like it that I’m happy about my purchase lol

There is always hub vs mid-drive argument going on somewhere.. Both have their good and bad features and every person has their own preference based on their experience and usage. This kind of bike is not lightest, best at track or best offroader but it has its place for something in between and that is something that I personally like.

I am little skeptical about quality when I hear cheap and china but hopefully you got more than you paid for :thumb: (Nothing against Chinese products but they really know how to cut corners on cost when they want to..)

 

[Battosaii]

I made a similar purchase but I'm buying it in parts and building it my self. I come from the Esk8 world where we also have hub vs belt drive arguments. In esk8 belt drive or gear drive is the best because it allows you to use a real skate wheel and not a motor covered in a thin layer of PU. The other huge advantage is a reduction ratio on belt set ups.

I have a EEB frame on order and suspension and other bits. But the drive train is still up in their air I'm doing as much research as possible before deciding on a Qs205, qs273 or a mid drive.

If you already purchased the bike just ride it man dont let people make you feel bad about something you already did. Just enjoy it and maybe upgrade as you ride and learn what you want out of the bike.