SprocketLocket said:
Oh my gosh Nep, I didn't realize you got THAT jacked up on the crash. I assume this was the one where your tire fell into the train track rut.
An unsolicited suggestion... try just being on 'all fours', on a bed is fine, and relax in that position. It can help put a back 'back to normal'. I then usually shift my weight a little front-back, side-side, diagonal, in a subtle not quite rocking motion. Helps me a lot. I feel little cracks and flexes when I do that, too. It's easy to do, unlike some exercises. The other thing that helped me the most was a "Back Nobber" which you can get on Amazon, and it's priceless if you have or can discover pressure points that you respond to really well. I recommend the simpler rounder-pointed Back Nobber over more pointy mimic devices which have more 'knobs'. These two things helped me more than the exercises given to me by professional physical therapists, and neither came from them.
Yup, that's the one where the tire fell into the train track.
It's funny you mention back positioning. I had just read about that. Apparently there is a huge correlation with back and neck pain and posture. I looked at my spine, and it is crooked from being a total computer nerd / internet addict since 1994 ( i'm 32 now ). In fact, most people have this slouch in their neck and back because everyone is using a TV, mobile device, computer etc for half their waking hours or even more. We are in for an epidemic of back and neck pain soon in the advanced world.
I have learned that the key to eliminating a lot of my problems is how i hold my body and also in muscle training. I am looking into doing tai chi or yoga very soon as winter sets in. In the last week, i built a standing desk and attempt to hold my posture as well as i can. It has made a huge difference in my level of pain. I am already more functional in just 4 days. Amazing. If a few people can 'pop' slipping and herniated discs back into their spine with motion, and others can correct chronic pain simply with posture, i can do it too.
I think after my crash, i made a mistake and stopped moving, thinking under the lines of the conventional thought where 'if you just stay off it, it'll heal'. I've learned that conventional medical wisdom is often wrong. It is not based on results, it is often based on profit for the provider, it seems. I think the Asian and Indian societies have this figured out far better than we do anyway.
I have a lot to say on this topic, but i'll stop now. Thanks for your recommendation on the back nobber
I hope you are doing better as well.
SprocketLocket said:
Well I had no idea that the 8T was in "demise" status, nor that it was from demagnification or de-gaussing from heat. I've actually never heard of that. I suppose you never did the Trans Oil trick. THANK YOU for the excellent analysis. It was actually kind of what I was expecting, and confirmed a bunch for me.
So impart some advice to me:
how do I best "get the most out of a MAC", yet still avoid damaging it? Mainly in terms of programming and amp limiting. You've pretty much explored where the limit is. I know you've pumped over 4KW at some points into it... and Cel-Man wouldn't approve of me doing that
. I think the faster wind of your 8T is also more prone to overheating, and... I think you may have had the older version (I know you had white gears) with thicker laminations, which was also more prone to overheating, particularly at higher voltages? Do you know what the 'saturation point' for this motor is BTW (just starting to learn about these things). If I decide on a MAC, it would be a 12T for me, because I ride slowly, normally fairly flat, but may occasionally may do steep and/or long hills. I'm planning on a hardtail for now too, and already have 72V worth of Multistar 10Ah battery packs, 48V of which I can already use on my cheapie ebike, as I do research for a real DIY setup.
Yes, i had beat the bloody hell out of the MAC over the years. Most of the abuse happened when i was 270lbs. The little 4kW stint structurally weakened the original white gears and they turned to peanut butter days later, but was part of the overheating of the motor. That, plus climbing super tall grades on 36-57v. After i found out that it was demagnetized, i didn't stop abusing it. I would run it on 36v and 120% mode, hitting a top speed of 38mph with pedaling. It had turned into something like 7T motor by the end, lol. I sold it with a notice about it being demagged and honestly have kind of missed it since. Now, the newer versions have higher efficiency due to thinner lams.
Go with a 10T if you have mostly flat land. Adjust your voltage accordingly. The BMC V2 'torque' on the ebikes.ca is a 10T MAC equivalent winding, by the way. The speed BMC V2 is an 8T.
If you don't have more than 5% hills, an 8T MAC is fine if you are a lighter rider ( under 200lb ) and are using a 26" wheel rather than a 700c.
As far as promoting longevity of the motor, i know something about that. On my 8T, i ran a em3ev controller at a lower phase ratio than the controller came shipped. I ran around 2.4:1 phase:battery amps. Default is maybe 2.66:1-3:1. So in other words, say 24 amps phase, 10 amps battery ( multiply that upwards to taste ). This forced me to pedal from a stall by tuning out some of the initial torque of the motor ( and it does have a hell of a lot ), which reduced heat buildup in stop 'n go and also made my clutch last the entirety of my ownership of it, despite major abuse.
It is that initial hit of torque from a stall that really beats on the clutch. So detuning the phase amps a bit lowers that hit quite a lot. Yeah, it's not as fun because you can't blast off the line as hard, but your drivetrain and battery watt hours will thank you.
